What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[superj]

i just found this though

Army Manuals:
Painting & Marking of Vehicle & Equipment AR 850-5 (1942)
U.S. Army Vehicle Marking AR 850-5 (1945)
U.S. Army Vehicle Marking 1945-1954 AR 850-10 (1942)
Registration of Motor Vehicles AR 850-15 (1945)
Motor Vehicles AR 746-2 (1993)
Combat Vehicle Marking System TB 746-93-1 (1964)
Color & Marking of Military Vehicles, Construction Equipment & Material Handling Equipment TB 746-95-1 (1976)
Color, Marking & Camouflage Pattern Painting for Armament Command Equipment TB 43-0139 (1988)
Painting Instructions for Army Material TB 43-0209 (1976)
Color, Marking & Camouflage Painting of Military Vehicles, Construction Equipment & Material Handling Equipment TB 43-0209 (1990)
Color, Marking & CAMOUFLAGE Painting of Military Vehicles, Construction Equipment & Material Handling Equipment TB 43-0213 (1990)
Corrosion Prevention TC 5-200 (1975) Camouflage Pattern Painting TM 9-2851 (1947)
Painting Instructions for Field Use TM 9-213 (1962)
Painting Instructions for Field Use TM 9-213 (1986)
Painting Instructions for Field Use TM 38-414 (1943)
Army Marking Directive TM 43-0139 (1986)
Painting Instructions for Field Use TM 43-0139 (1988)
Painting Instructions for Field Use MIL-STD-129D (1964)
Military Standard Marking for Shipment & Storage MIL-STD-642E (1963)
Military Standard Identification Marking of Administrative, Combat, & Tactical Transport Vehicles Federal Color wheels European Color Wheel 1940 TT-C 1950 595 1927 RAL 1960 595A 1936 RAL 1989 595B 1941 RAL 2009 595C U. S. Paints (Oil based)
WW-I: French Orange Primer (?) FT Tank Light (Renault) Medium Olive Drab (34227) Medium Yellow Cream (33655) Red Brown (30109) Black (37038) Blue-Green (35275) British Primer (?)
Mk V Tank Heavy Green Drab (34130) ID Stripes: Red (31350) & White (37925) InterWar Years (1920s-1940s): Olive Drab (24064) w Linseed Oil (1 pint per gallon) WW-II: Red Brown Primer (30109) Steel 1940 Lusterless Olive Drab (QM color # 2) (FSN 51-E-4171-15) 1943 Lusterless Olive Drab (QM 3-1F Color Card) 1943 Lusterless Olive Drab (319) (34127) 1945 Semi-gloss Olive Drab (FSN 52-E-7574) Registration #s (15048) Interior – White (17925) USMC Amphibians (34052) USMC Tanks (34127) (early) (34052) (late) USMC marking Yellow (13655) 1950 (FS 595) Olive Drab 3412 (34087) & Olive Drab 2430 (24087) 1968 (FS 595A) Olive Drab (34087) & Olive Drab (24087) USMC Forest Green (24052) or (34052) 1989 (FS 595B) Green (34094) (NSN 8010-01-160-6742) Brown (30051) (NSN 8010-01-160-6746) Black (37030) (NSN 8010-01-131-6261) Sand (33303) (NSN 8010-01-131-6259) Gloss White (17925) Flat White (37925) Gun Metal Grey (36134) or Parkerizing Chemicals
Vehicles made of Aluminum should use a Zinc Chromate Primer
(M-551 Sheridan, M-113 APC, M-114, M-2 & M-3 Bradley German WW-II (Oil based) (RAL) Red-Brown Primer (8017) Elfenbein – Ivory White (1001) Interior Dunkelgrau - Panzer Grey (7021) Poland & France Gelbbraun – Yellow-Brown (8000) North Africa (Mar 1941) (2/3%) (7008) (1/3%) Braun - Brown (8020) North Africa (Mar 1942) (2/3%) (7027) (1/3%) Rotbraun – Red-Brown (8017) Dunkelgelb – Dark-Yellow (7028) Olivgrun – Olive Green (6003


Historical-Army-Vehicle-Paint-Information-for-OHM.pdf
search for that and it comes up with a spread sheet that doesn't copy well. it comes out like what i tried to post

 

[superj]

found more on google from cherokeeforum

it changed colors a little because one of hte lighter sand colors only came ina gloss and it didn;t look good with flat/semi colors mixed in

 

[tw205]

Michigan camo !!! REEEEEEEEEEE

 

[tw205]

Sensible shoes?
Got a used set of shoes for ol’ Mable. She’s an on going project. They are the size and brand I was wanting but they are used with a couple miles on them. Price was right ($356 mounted balanced and out the door). She’s still in the trial stage so I wasn’t ready to invest in a new set but she is ready for road testing and needed something better than shop rollers. 33x12.5x15. I think I could still clear a 35” but we will see after testing and the V8 upgrade.

 

[scotts90ranger]

While most of the active posters are at Carlisle I'm getting places on the 5.0L, got it on an engine stand, drained oil, cleaned the sides of the block and oil pan (they were GROSS), pulled the water pump, pulled the valve covers and spark plugs and the drivers side exhaust manifold. I also can now see why the passenger side motor mount bolts keep breaking... the block is worn down like 1/8" next to the motor mount bolts, there's a ridiculous amount of leverage at that point since it's worn down all the way to the threads at an angle

 

[Bgunner]

So do you have a plan to fix the block? Some weld to build up the material then grind flat?

 

[scotts90ranger]

That's the jist of it... might try to add something to the mount to reach up and contact the block higher like the marine mounts do... Step one will be removing the bolt that's broke off in the block and has been there for like 2 years that way... don't remember if I did something dumb and put in grade 8 or kept with 5... we shall see tomorrow

 

[Snoranger]

While most of the active posters are at Carlisle

We’re still watching you.

 

[BroncLander]

I changed my tire pressure from 30psi to 35psi and got about 10% better gas mileage

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well, yesterday was mostly work on my garden tractor. Cleaned the deck up a bit, straightened the brackets (debating on trying to weld in a brace), straightened and modded the lift brackets on the tractor to see if I can get the deck a little higher. Today I guess I’m finishing that and working on whatever. Was supposed to be going to the Irish Festival today but at like 10pm last night I found out that the people I was supposed to be going with bailed on me, so now no Irish Festival or Carlisle for me. Argh.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Today I spent tearing apart the 5.0L from the explorer, broke one intake manifold bolt, fought and won against the broken water pump/timing cover bolt that broke a few years ago. The cylinders look pretty good with stock cross hatches visible and no lip at the top, bearings are worn but the crank journals look good, haven't pulled the valves yet but none of them are sunk... Looks like my plan of just honing the cylinders, new rings and bearings and maybe valve job should be just the ticket, might do new cam and soforth if I decide on a cam...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Today I spent tearing apart the 5.0L from the explorer, broke one intake manifold bolt, fought and won against the broken water pump/timing cover bolt that broke a few years ago. The cylinders look pretty good with stock cross hatches visible and no lip at the top, bearings are worn but the crank journals look good, haven't pulled the valves yet but none of them are sunk... Looks like my plan of just honing the cylinders, new rings and bearings and maybe valve job should be just the ticket, might do new cam and soforth if I decide on a cam...

I’d check the timing chain and probably lap the valves, my 5.0 needed both…

 

[scotts90ranger]

I already ordered a new timing set (chain was loose), and we have a valve grinder at work so if they're good enough I'll grind them then lap the seats...

 

[broncc]

Went to a Cars and Coffee today. Tried to buy Warn hubs off a 4x4 swapped Splash owner. Got to talking and he said he was thinking about putting the dreaded 4" rough country lift on. I explained to him why I hated mine and he said that he "already bought it." Oh well I would have sold him mine for cheap.

Wonder if we'll see him join here soon.

 

[James Morse]

what's beef with 4" lift?