What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[racsan]

cardboard on radiator, havent done anything with upper radiator hose, was considering a old tractor thermostat that goes inside upper hose but checked and its only a 160 degree- and 25$. Not for sure if thermostat diameter matches hose diameter. I guess bmw used something similar once upon a time- but Im sure thats even more pricey, if its even still available.

 

[bobbywalter]

You have to pinch off the hose. Two scraps of wood and a c clamp if you don't have good grips or hose pliers...

If it builds right away then you know your bypassing.

I suspect a swollen core...but would need to physically test truck.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Spent rest of the day finishing a ventless propane heater project I started before thanksgiving. That stainless gas line is awesome, drilling through block isnt. My cordless harbour freight drill worked good, maybe too good. couple times it caught & spun the drill around , twisted my wrist & once it got me in the nose.

Ahh yes, the old style masonry drills. I’m glad I missed the days of using a star chisel and 4# sledge to punch holes, but my first real job was concrete construction and we had this beast of a Black & Decker hammerdrill. The old style cordless drills were almost as rough. When the bit sticks, well, it hurts, lol. And the bits stick a lot in masonry. Almost broke my wrist and arms about a million times along with suffering much other abuse. Family friend that helped us out a few times bought a Hilti SDS hammerdrill and brought it out and it was 1000x better. We bought a Bosch SDS after that and it saved a lot of bodily injury.

 

[Curious Hound]

Ahh yes, the old style masonry drills. I’m glad I missed the days of using a star chisel and 4# sledge to punch holes, but my first real job was concrete construction and we had this beast of a Black & Decker hammerdrill. The old style cordless drills were almost as rough. When the bit sticks, well, it hurts, lol. And the bits stick a lot in masonry. Almost broke my wrist and arms about a million times along with suffering much other abuse. Family friend that helped us out a few times bought a Hilti SDS hammerdrill and brought it out and it was 1000x better. We bought a Bosch SDS after that and it saved a lot of bodily injury.

I still busted a lot of knuckles with my Milwaukee sds hammer drill, especially when I put the 2 1/2" core drill in it and had to drill close to a cement block wall.

 

[Chapap]

Seen lots of talk about this, but never a picture. This is after jacking the front end up to change the radius arm and I beam bushings. This is why ride height is important with the twin I beam.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You have to pinch off the hose. Two scraps of wood and a c clamp if you don't have good grips or hose pliers...

If it builds right away then you know your bypassing.

I suspect a swollen core...but would need to physically test truck.

1) Pinch off upper rad hose? Or one of the heater core hoses? Im thinking upper rad hose to force circulation thru heater core.

 

[bobbywalter]

Yes...it always circulates ...

 

[Curious Hound]

View attachment 70033
Seen lots of talk about this, but never a picture. This is after jacking the front end up to change the radius arm and I beam bushings. This is why ride height is important with the twin I beam.

Yes. It always causes you to drop a 1/2" ratchet wrench extension.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I still busted a lot of knuckles with my Milwaukee sds hammer drill, especially when I put the 2 1/2" core drill in it and had to drill close to a cement block wall.

Nothing like a drill that when it gets the bit stuck it goes around at least 3 more revolutions after you let off the trigger and takes you with it. My Milwaukee right angle is like that. I had it lift me off the ground from a seated position and smash me into the front of my F-150 while trying to break my wrist when I was drilling the plow mount. Don’t get me wrong, the SDS has banged me up, but nothing like those old drills

 

[racsan]

I was surprised the drill was that good, the masonry bit I was using was a 1” x 13”. almost a $30 bit. Ive yet to total up everything from the project but it was certainly more than the $250 heater itself. Had to get a stud finder so Id know where the studs were behind the drywall, a low pressure guage to confirm less than 10” water column (about 1/2 psi) , that pricey big masonry bit, all the fittings/valves (have 1 at source, 1 at the heater) the csst (gas line) , csst fittings. The end result is nice, the furnace in the main part of the house just didnt have enough to support heating the addition. Personally I just wanted to close it off for winter & just not use the room, this place is so much more roomy than where we moved from even without the addition that was built on to the back.
Had to have thermostat at 77 for it to be 70 in the addition. theres ductwork underneath but I think its just too much, too far. you could barely feel any air out of the registers even with most shut off in main part of the house. I would of loved a wood stove but Im getting a bit old for cutting wood every weekend. Sure would be better than paying for propane. At least its not fuel oil though.
Didnt do anything today-at all. been a warm but very damp day out. Good day to just stay in. Im rather achy from crawling around under the house most of yesterday afternoon. Gotta get some recovery time in before going back to work on monday.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Scott,

i picked up 10lb of 7018 1/8” as I’m going with thick steel. Thanks for the amperages, those were what I was going to start out with.

I’ve got to run a 50A circuit to feed it, I’ve got a 30A dryer recept. in the garage but I’m leery of using it.

I paid $150 and that’s a fair price for my area. You got a steal at $20!

-Jazzer

Yeah, what was said, go by the decimal of the diameter for a starting point so with that start at 125 amps but you'll likely go down to the 110 range if I had to guess... Yes I got a steal for $20 but $150 isn't bad for what it is, they're more adjustable than a tombstone and an AC/DC tombstone even used goes for $200...

There were a few different versions of that welder apparently, mine is the one with the cam over lever a little over from the adjustment lever, the other is with a spring loaded grip on the adjustment lever if I remember right...

10# of rods is a lot, but a mower deck is a fair project... 1/8" is probably overkill as I can't imagine you using larger than 1/8" plate for a mower deck and 3/32" would be plenty for that, but it takes more rods for the same distance...

Like said on the amperage, I run mine on two separate 110 breakers since that's what the garage is running off of (my breaker box is a mess... decisions were made, the garage is wired correctly, the power to the garage is fed oddly...) that I think are both 20A but could be 15A... I have to be welding for a while burning pretty hot with 1/8" rod to blow a breaker... but it's the same leg the lights are ran off of so that would explain it with I think 9 3 bulb fluorescent lights...

 

[Jazzer]

Thanks, that made me feel better about running the welder off the 30A receptacle, today I picked up a 6-30/6-50 plug end for the welder power cord. I’d read up on other forums where guys running the MW 230 AC/DC were popping breakers when they got to 90 amps or overheating the welder. There were mixed opinions.

I haven’t run a bead in 20 years or so, a long long time after I learned in metal shop, but it came back immediately, so I’m confident and watching videos about technique.

Is there a relationship between size of rod and gauge of steel being welded?

Thanks again.

-Jazzer

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Since I haven't gotten my new head unit installed yet it so only felt right to go ahead and order a new cb radio too... so I did that.

Never got above 4* outside that I saw, all the work of wrangling the chains on the tractor and I don't think we got an inch of snow out of the deal.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Jazzer, just play with some scrap before you get started and adjust the amperage to the point where you can strike and hold an arc consistently at a speed where you aren't getting too much buildup of weld material and aren't burning through... I'm no expert and I have to relearn some every time I try stick again but it works...

You can use whatever rod size for most things, sheet metal is a pain no matter what you do, the skinny rods (1/16" mainly I think) are wobbly and wiggle when you strike an arc, 3/32" is a good all around size but the most common rod ever in use is 1/8" I believe at least for home and farm use... for thinner material you just have to drop the amps some to a point where you aren't burning through and can still get a consistent arc strike...

I recommend watching some video's, and if you are going to watch any I recommend the ones from weld.com like THIS ONE, this guy is easy to understand and goes through a lot of stuff, there's one with do's and don'ts... watching video's is one thing but hands on is another...

 

[RustyShackleford94]

Nothing like a drill that when it gets the bit stuck it goes around at least 3 more revolutions after you let off the trigger and takes you with it. My Milwaukee right angle is like that. I had it lift me off the ground from a seated position and smash me into the front of my F-150 while trying to break my wrist when I was drilling the plow mount. Don’t get me wrong, the SDS has banged me up, but nothing like those old drills

If you have a bench grinder you can custom grind your bits to make them not do that. Typical jobbers have a 118° angle on the tip. Throw like a 60° angle on it (real sharp angle) and they wont grab near as hard, also they will be more consistently on center if you dont want to pilot the hole. Go to YouTube university for drill sharpening basics.