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build thread for 2.8 carb to chevy tbi.


I might be interested in one, just for the sake of the next one I end up doing for someone.

were you going to make it out of 1 piece that is 1" or so thick? thus negating the need to use the phenolic like I did? if you don't at least have that thick of material the tbi sits too low, and won't properly line up with the throttle cable.
 
I might be interested in one, just for the sake of the next one I end up doing for someone.

were you going to make it out of 1 piece that is 1" or so thick? thus negating the need to use the phenolic like I did? if you don't at least have that thick of material the tbi sits too low, and won't properly line up with the throttle cable.

i was planning 1" dont you use the throttle cable bracket thats on the tbi?
should i go thicker?
 
no, the Ford cable/bracket stays on the intake manifold, you unbolt the TBI bracket and throw it away
 
hmm ok. would you sa i need to go thicker? also the butterfly valves on the tbi are really small compared to the 2150 gaskets holes
 
I don't think you need to go thicker. I imagine even 3/4" would cut it.

I think you should use the tbi size holes on the top, that graduate to the ford 2.8 manifold sized holes at the bottom.

measure the intake manifold's hole opening, that is the diameter I would use. the intake manifold is smaller than the gasket, and if your plate has holes that bigger than the manifold, you will have a "lip" that might cause turbulence. Not that I think you would notice it on a 2.8l engine.

I made my plate with the tbi holes in the top, die-grindered to match the holes in the phenolic/intake manifold

A cross-sectional view of how i used a die-grinder to modify the spacers. on the left is how the overlap was, on the right shows how i took material off 1 side of each spacer to channel the air flow smoothly, the difference was less than 1/4"
Untitled-4.png
 
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alright well im pulling lil-pony (my trucks name) in the garage tomorrow, taking the front tires (lower the front end 6") and hood off and beginning the removal process.
 
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before:

now:


done a lot, stripped the old ecm and wiring harness and carb off, replaced the water pump, removed the alternator, waiting for the 140amp from summit,
got the 4.0 radiator in but not mounted. began making block of plates for the egr on both the intake and exhaust manifold, as well as a block of plate for the air injector on the cat. i thank my friend martin for the help so far.

droped the front end.


found a birds nest in my air intake














me removing the vacuum relays






 
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also what would cause the vacuum canister to have fuel in it, also discovered my distributor was close to self destructing. still nee to swap the distributor, get the new ecm in and wired. finish the radiator and alternator. and a few other major things
 
going to try to finish making the block off plates and get the fender wells back in. my old radiator was brass and copper. could some one answer my question above about the vac reservoir
 
I would be interested in one of those adapter plates, depending on costs.
 
well that's two extras so far. the more the cheaper. going to talk to a cnc manufacturing company tomorrow, my friend backed out. what caused my vac reservoir to draw in fuel.
 
Best sticker yet


Mounted the radiator


Egr block offs



Power/relay bank
 
got the distributor in and the fender wells back in as well. mounted the coil, fuel pump, having to re-re-rewire some stuff, got to hasty on the wiring harness a few weeks ago. had to dremel the lobe above the gear on the dizzy a few hundreds of an inch to make it slide in the block for some reason.




Notify me of any broken links
 
for fuel in your vac reservoir, I would look at your fuel pressure regulator. the diaphragm might be bad causing fuel to go into the vacuum system.

BTW, nice looking B2.

AJ
 
thanks for the compliment, i try my best.

pressure regulator on a carb, i thought only fi systems had those from the factory.
 

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