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No dash lights and no running lights. help needed.


Pekerz

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Hello everyone, This is my first post here. I have a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0 2wd. i'm not sure where to begin with my issue and i could use some assistance. I recently got a new head unit installed by a buddy and since then i've had no dash lights and no running lights but the dash lights work when i push the headlight switch in between the 1st and 2nd mode and only at full brightness. Im not sure where to begin and what to check.
 


RobbieD

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The instrument light dimmer wire at the radio is Lt Blue/Red. Pull the radio back out and check and make sure that your buddy didn't connect that wire wrong. I've seen people use the dimmer wire for a ground before, as it looks like a ground when the lights are off.

Also check all of fuses, as for the running light part.

Welcome to TRS.
 

Pekerz

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Would it be this cable?
IMG_8419.jpg
 

RobbieD

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Yes. It's good that it's capped.

But I see bare copper on the Lt Green/Yellow wire behind it; that is a constant power wire, so that needs tape or reconnecting so that the copper is not exposed.

Have you checked all of the fuses?
 

Pekerz

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Yes. It's good that it's capped.

But I see bare copper on the Lt Green/Yellow wire behind it; that is a constant power wire, so that needs tape or reconnecting so that the copper is not exposed.

Have you checked all of the fuses?
just got those cabled wrapped up with some tape. changed out some fuses and that did it. the dash lights work again and the running lights as well. only thing that doesn't work (dont really mind) is the dimming. thank you very much!
 

Pekerz

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Yes. It's good that it's capped.

But I see bare copper on the Lt Green/Yellow wire behind it; that is a constant power wire, so that needs tape or reconnecting so that the copper is not exposed.

Have you checked all of the fuses?
Hello there, just had a follow up question. Is there a cable which powers only when ignition is on? I am trying to connect a Bluetooth module so my head unit.
 

RobbieD

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The radio's power wire would be a good choice. It's Yellow/Black and will have +12V in the ignition switch key "run" and "accessory" positions.

There's only one circuit at the ignition which powers in "run" only; it's a Gray/Yellow and used mainly for antilock brakes and climate control.

Ignition circuits are powered in "run" and "start".

The radio power wire would be the best choice for any added audio-related equipment.
 

Pekerz

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I wired it into this one but the device stays on even without ignition.
 

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RobbieD

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Toonces drives a Ranger . . . . just not very well.
Is the radio also wired into the same Yellow/Black wire? If so, the radio stays on all the time too, right?

The original wire color codes are Yellow/Black = switched +12V, and Lt Green/Yellow as constant +12V. You need to test the wires, in the truck, with a meter, and verify that they operate as described.

If the two wires at the radio, in the truck, don't test correctly, it can't ruled out that an "electrician" has made some wiring changes sometime in the truck's past.
 

Pekerz

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Is the radio also wired into the same Yellow/Black wire? If so, the radio stays on all the time too, right?

The original wire color codes are Yellow/Black = switched +12V, and Lt Green/Yellow as constant +12V. You need to test the wires, in the truck, with a meter, and verify that they operate as described.

If the two wires at the radio, in the truck, don't test correctly, it can't ruled out that an "electrician" has made some wiring changes sometime in the truck's past.
Yeah, the radio is on at all times. My buddy which installed it told me that’s the only place he could power it from. I’ll look around and thanks so much for your help kind sir 👍
 

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