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daily doubler build


I know I know. I keep envisioning me having to slam on my brakes, and my knuckle comes flying off cause I didn't get a sufficient weld on the casting. Or having a constant pull to one side cause the caster is off a degree or two on the pass. side. Driving 350+miles a week that would get annoying REAL quick.

The narrowing process itself isn't difficult. Just cut the weld, knock the knuckle off, chop off 6" and weld the knuckle back on. It's the positioning/welding of the knuckle that's the tricky part.

Don't worry, there'll be plent of fab involved when the time comes for the actual swap to take place.
 
Bray I have a bunch of I-beam we could easily build a jig for the axle. Recentering the knuckle wouldn't be too hard, especially if we used a jig to hold everything in place. Let me know, I need a project for the winter....
 
Hmmm, my main concern was not having a jig and not getting the knuckle positioned correctly. I wasn't going to buy material to build one when I could just have it narrowed for nearly the same price. I've got the axle in the back of my truck right now, was planning on dropping it off at the guys shop after work today.

Did you install your own gears? I was gonna have him do that too (he setup the 4.56's in my D35). I've got time, and since you say you have material available, I'm tempted to do it myself now. It'd save me a good chunk of cash (narrowing and gear/locker install). Christmas break starts in less than 2 weeks. I'm down for an "educational hands-on" break. I think it'd be a great Earth Resin Offroad project (Levi's not touching my shit though lol).

Where do you purpose we do this at?
 
That bastard. Adam called me early this week about setting up a meeting time. Originally it was Goodfellas in Pekin sat. at noon. I've gotta work saturdays (took this one off to work on our house, but still working none-the-less) then I have our company's christmas party sat. evening at 6. Said I could make it friday night (tonight) or sunday evening (working on house during the day again). He said Justin may not be able to make it saturday either so plans may change. He never called me back.

I could make it next saturday at noon, I've got a final from 9-11am that day so I'd be free for lunch before I go there for a half day. Or next fri/sat/sun evening, etc. My availability is, for the most part, any day after 6. At least until we get our house finished (shooting for early Jan). I'll have a couple free days through the week after Christmas break starts though.

So in short - no.
 
I decided not to take my axle in after work. I'm going to narrow it myself, you guys have convinced me. Building a jig should be pretty simple, and my angle finder should suffice for setting caster angle.
 
ahem :icon_welder:

I narrowed it tonight, I'll weld it up tomorrow. It should come together pretty fast after I install the gears/locker.

full width
IMG_0033.jpg


added plates to measure caster
IMG_0034.jpg


made the face of the diff vertical for reference
IMG_0039.jpg


levelled the axle on the stands
IMG_0040.jpg


and measured both driver and passenger side caster for reference
IMG_0041.jpg


I also measured the width at 3 different places so I could compare results after I cut it

ground the weld
IMG_0043.jpg


undercut to break weld
IMG_0046.jpg

IMG_0048.jpg


built a little jig and knocked the knuckle/wedge assembly off
IMG_0049.jpg

IMG_0050.jpg


marked and cutoff 6" of the pass. side tube
IMG_0053.jpg


measured, pressed on knuckle, remeasured - ready for weld
IMG_0054.jpg


I'm pretty pleased with how smooth the process went. I hope I can say the same after I try and weld it tomorrow. I've done my research, and spent WAY more than I had planned on welding rod - so it'd better work lol.
 
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Speaking of, what'd you end up deciding on for welding rod and process?

:icon_welder:

I may as well take you through my learning process, I'm sure some will appreciate the tech.

I've yet to take material science, so what I've learned thus far came from hours of research both online and talking to those who weld for a profession. I found that there are many types of cast, and assume the knuckle/wedge to be gray cast. After determining that, I researched different rod/processes. I found most online resources suggested using a rod with high nickel content, yet the question of whether to preheat/postheat was kind of up in the air.

I called a welding shop in Farmington (as suggested on a local forum) and explained my situation. He seemed like your average backyard rod burner and suggested preheating to 200*F and use a general purpose rod - burn it, knock off the slag, peen it, and let it cool slowly. In his experience he never joined mild steel to cast, just repaired cracked/broken cast parts.

After that I stopped by Pekin Weldors'. This guy suggested preheating to 400*F or so and using a high nickel rod - peen, slow cool, etc. They didn't sell any rod so he sent me to Paxair on 8th st. and told me to explain my situation to them. He thought they may have a better idea of what rod to use.

I go to Pax, and the guy wasn't positive which rod to use. He suggested a rod consisting of many different alloys but found that he didn't have any in stock and couldn't get any (great). He referred me to the company that provides them with their welding supplies. Said to explain my situation, they'll explain the process/which rod etc, then we'll see what we can do about getting that rod to Pax for me to buy (Wholesaler sold to distributors only).

I called their provider (Messer Welding) and talked with a tech. He confirmed that the material was likely gray iron and explained 2 processes. One was to preheat to 400*F, burn,peen,slow cool,etc. The tricky part about this process is it needs to stay AT 400*F the whole time. He said you don't want it to rise to 500* or drop to 300*. Without a furnace I don't see how this is possible. The other process he explained was "cold welding" it. He said start at or a little above room temp, no hotter than 100*F. Weld .5-1", knock off slag, peen, and allow to slow cool back to room temp. Come back and do another .5-1", allow to cool, etc. till the job is done. Takes a long time but said its extremely effective. If multiple passes are required, make a root pass first, followed by the overlapping 'filler' passes. He also suggested 99% nickel rod.

After talking to him I researched the cold welding process and found that this is one of the processes lincoln electric suggests on their site. I talked to a guy who welded cast for Cat and he said they did it all cold, due to their parts being far too large to preheat uniformly.

After all my research I decided to buy the 1/8" Ni-99 rod (they had it at Pax) due to the high ductility of the nickel. It cost $78 per lb :icon_surprised:. On the package, it again described the cold welding process. Amperage suggestion per the box is 65-115amps.

I plan to go down, fire up that huge salamander we have, and heat up the axle to 70-80* (I have a digital infared temp guage from my r/c days). Weld an inch or so, peen, and again set in front of heater to allow it to cool slowly. I'll continue this process until its finished.
 
I would think that they would be Ductile Iron due it its much higher tensile strength. 276 MPA max of Gray Iron, compared to 414 MPA min of Ductile Iron. Gray is preferred for applications with high compressive stresses but low tensile stresses, but in this case where you have alternating stresses Ductile seems to fit much better. If I were choosing the material, it would have been Ductile Iron; but I can't say for certain what they used.
 
It's hard to deduce truely what it is, I'm no metallugist (is that a word? lol). If it is in fact ductile, then I would think it should be easier to weld. All in all I'm probably over thinking things again, and I'm sure it'll be fine.
 
Yes. Your not breaking new ground. It's been done before and it's a proven method.

Which is why I research it. I knew it had been done (many times), its just not as common as slapping a couple pieces of 3/16 mild steel plate together.
 

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