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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


I took it in for an alignment. It needed a set of eccentric camber/caster bolts. So, it ended up costing me $350. If I had known ahead of time I would have installed them myself. But, since I was there I just paid for it so I can move on.

Next project, install shocks when it quits raining next week and searching for decent tires that aren't $180 each
 
The driveline and tiny little bed is what puts me off of the Maverick. I do like the looks of it otherwise. Wish it was an extended cab with a full 6ft bed, rwd or 4x4, with a plain old v6 and automatic

The engine is solid on those. That 2.0 is a very good engine. I have read of trans issues on the escapes, which i feel is similar to the maverick, but we never had any issues on the three escapes we had, and one shared the same 2.0 turbo engine. That engine is very fun and got 27mpg all day long doing 80.

I wouldnt get the hybrid because of the transmission. I know why they use a cvt but i am not falling for it when honda used a regular 5 soeed automatic with their hybrid accords for years and got excellent gas mileage and dependability from them.

The awd makes me wonder because all the awd i have had had the viscous center case clutches fail making them become rwd only.

And the bed on the maverick and 4 door ranger are both terribly small. Better to get the extended cab ranger there
 
I took it in for an alignment. It needed a set of eccentric camber/caster bolts. So, it ended up costing me $350. If I had known ahead of time I would have installed them myself. But, since I was there I just paid for it so I can move on.

Next project, install shocks when it quits raining next week and searching for decent tires that aren't $180 each
I put Hankook Kinergy on my '97, they seem decent for a car tire on a pickup... and are $98 ea on Amazon (don't remember what I paid).

Tuesday I ordered a new thermostat housing and thermostat for the '97 Ranger, hoping that will fix my heater issues, I'm hoping it's the thermostat not sealing to the housing and bypassing constantly causing my issue, it makes sense if you think about it and I'm running out of other ideas...
 
Sooooo, my company left, so I decided, tackling/fixing the brand new alternator that crapped out on the Road Ranger.

Backing up just a hair, when I cranked the truck with the new alternator, the first thing I heard was a high pitch tap/staccato, like a machine gun, but it just didn’t sound like anything big. I checked it out and I couldn’t find anything. The second time I started it up, it had a squeal. I shot some WD-40 through the vents at the front of the shaft and the rear of the shaft, and both noises went away. Then I drove it a couple days, and when my company got here, the charge was gone, it was dead as a door nail.

In my head, I’ve been fussing about it for four days. Today, I went out and pulled the air intake tube, and just happened to look down a little more closely before I started to unbolt everything. Where’s Waldo?


IMG_3317.jpeg


Can you see the issues? The little plastic clip sitting on top of the alternator, I’m guessing that’s what was holding the tag on through one of the vents. And when I pulled the tag off, that little plastic clip was still there. I think that was my Ratatat.

I know for sure (sortofmaybe) there was a nut on the shaft when I put it in because I was checking out swapping the pulleys, but they were the same size, so I just put it on. So I figured out where the squeal came from. I went in the shed of miracles, and took out the old alternator from my 1993 caravelle 23 bowrider, that I haven’t owned in 15 years, and stole the nut and washer off it (and put the alternator back). That was the back up plan, because I couldn’t budge the nut on the old alternator with a half inch breaker bar and a 2 foot pipe extension.

The thing that threw me, is the alternator gauge seemed to be in the right charging position, and I never got the red battery warning light. The only thing I can figure there is that the pulley friction on the shaft from the tension of the belt was turning the rotor just enough to keep the lights off, but not enough to keep the batteries charged. Does that make any sense?

Next couple days, I’m just going to switch off the toolbox battery and run around with the under hood battery and make sure it’s charging. If it quits, I can jump myself with the toolbox battery. If not, I guess I’m done with it.

Back to Big Red and Ole Blue….
 
My friend group tends to do a little night wheeling the night before thanksgiving so in normal me fashion I waited until tonight to get the '90 Ranger over to the shop to take care of the couple things it needs... Started by airing up the tires since it was last trailered so they're all up to around 30 then I pulled the IAC and sprayed it out with electric parts cleaner then I put the new starter relay on. Checked the oil and it was close so I added half a quart and that was enough to get it to the top of the crosshatching (the turbo is leaking, figured I'd keep it topped off). Oh, then I put the mudflaps in so I don't get harassed... not that anyone gets pulled over for that anymore...
 
The thing that threw me, is the alternator gauge seemed to be in the right charging position, and I never got the red battery warning light.
The red battery light can indicate lack of charging in two ways. One is the way it's supposed to work, which is the light coming on when charging stops. The other, which I've run into on two different vehicles (one of them a Ford), is that the light stays off including when you're starting the vehicle. What I mean is that when all the warning lights are supposed to come on during cranking as your check to make sure they work, the battery light stays entirely off then.

I'll bet you've got that second one. The battery light is supposed to come on for a second with the other warning lights, then go out as you start. If it never comes on during starting, that's a sign of alternator trouble too.
 
The battery light is just an indicator of the regulator working, in normal operation one side of the light gets key on power and the other side is grounded through the exciter for the alternator turning on the light, once the engine is running and the alternator is making voltage it now has power on both sides of the bulb so it goes out... If the alternator goes full field then the light will likely go on as well...
 
I took the 3rd brake light off thinking that was the source of a leak that soaked the carpet on the driver's side. I then took the speaker out behind the seat to see if I could get a better look at the bottom of the rear window. I noticed water on the inside of the plastic panel just below the area the speaker magnet would be. It appears to be dripping directly on this plastic, but missing the speaker. It's too wet an drizzly to work on it, so I covered the truck with a shower curtain and I'll take the panel off tomorrow if I have time. Hopefully the air will dry out enough so I can dry out the carpet. It's so wet out there right now that there are tiny water drops floating in the air. I called some glass shops regarding replacing the seal. For some reason they are very reluctant to do it. So, it looks like I may have to do it myself.
 
I took the 3rd brake light off thinking that was the source of a leak that soaked the carpet on the driver's side. I then took the speaker out behind the seat to see if I could get a better look at the bottom of the rear window. I noticed water on the inside of the plastic panel just below the area the speaker magnet would be. It appears to be dripping directly on this plastic, but missing the speaker. It's too wet an drizzly to work on it, so I covered the truck with a shower curtain and I'll take the panel off tomorrow if I have time. Hopefully the air will dry out enough so I can dry out the carpet. It's so wet out there right now that there are tiny water drops floating in the air. I called some glass shops regarding replacing the seal. For some reason they are very reluctant to do it. So, it looks like I may have to do it myself.
They're probably concerned about breaking the glass removing it, I beleive it's glued in with urethane..
 
I cancelled the insurance for the winter because we got freezing rain and the roads are no doubt salted. Tomorrow I'll give it a thorough wash, service it, and park it beside my Mustang until April.
 
They're probably concerned about breaking the glass removing it, I beleive it's glued in with urethane..

The videos I've seen show people removing them with little difficulty. Aside from that, a glass shop should have the ability to remove and reinstalled a window.
 
The hardest part about redoing the glue in style windows is getting the trim away so you can get to the nuts, I broke a couple of the christmas trees on my '97 and when I did it I took out the passenger seat so I could get in the back easier... the butyl rope is easy to deal with and I found it in stock at Autozone for like $20 when I did it.
 
The outing last night was a success, the snow was dumb but the Ranger handled it just fine... the snow was fluffy a few days ago but then got warm and froze again so the top inch was frozen but not a sheet of ice then the 8" or so below it was soft and fluffy...

When I took it on the roads to meet up I thought something serious was wrong with the alignment as it was all over the place but wasn't scary so I went with it, thought it was toed out so I toed it in a touch at my friends house, then when we got to the snow I went to air down and found the rear drivers tire at 6.5psi and the other 3 at 25psi... so that answered that :). The only real problem is there's some issues on the passenger side axle shaft, it vibrates like a mofo over like 35mph and squeaks going slow? I don't remember if I changed the U joints or not, I think the bearing at the diff might be bad since that seal was bad at one point when the expansion splines were rusty and stuck out a little, I know I at least inspected those joints and the spindle bearing...
 
HEY! Are you guys ok? Not a peep in almost a week. My Ranger is down for the winter or until we get a warm day for me to werk on it. I need lower control arms or at least lower ball joints and an oil change. Otherwise, the Strangler is still limping along. That 2.5 and 4r44e is holding on for the 300,000 mile mark. We're around 270,000 last time I looked. Gonna be awhile. I only put around 4500 miles on her this year.
 

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