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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


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apparently the thing that identifies as a ranger thinks its a Christmas tree ranger now......
 
on 13/14 mm or 1/2 in ubolts, they absolutely stretch and distort. definitely to the point of failure.

that is why i recommend 9/16 minimum if you know you will be swapping parts, 5/8 if you have the room.

i used to swap my spring packs(and destroyed 28 spline axles) alot and learned the hard way.

Hmmm,

I understand your “bulletproof” approach, but not everybody crosses the Grand Canyon overland from one side to the other…

Of course, it’s silly of me to question the judgment of someone who has a Volkswagen decorated with Walmart Christmas lights….
 
Hmmm,

I understand your “bulletproof” approach, but not everybody crosses the Grand Canyon overland from one side to the other…

Of course, it’s silly of me to question the judgment of someone who has a Volkswagen decorated with Walmart Christmas lights….



specific to 1/2 inch. there are allot of high power or large tire trucks. a stock setup reused with 33s will loosen and roll the pads and blocks.


i am long and far from the thing that identifies as a Christmas ranger.....you will have to take that up with young bob.
 
on 13/14 mm or 1/2 in ubolts, they absolutely stretch and distort. definitely to the point of failure.

that is why i recommend 9/16 minimum if you know you will be swapping parts, 5/8 if you have the room.

i used to swap my spring packs(and destroyed 28 spline axles) alot and learned the hard way.
These were 5/8”, rolled threads, with tall nuts. I had them made at a local heavy truck shop. They lasted around 9 years. That’s probably pretty good. I have no doubt that either the bolts have stretched or the threads are starting to give way. The fact that they aren’t very Rusty but the nuts won’t budge makes me think the threads are failing and deformed.

I’ll probably order from RuffStuff since their price is average and description is exactly what I want. I’m just irritated with them right now because they won’t honor the 10% first order discount that they keep teasing me with. I’ll call the local shop tomorrow, though and see what their current price would be.
 
setting up for some future bed work.
Dorman 999-999 measures 47.75 x 15.75
as usual will need some tweaking because the pleats are not an exact match, are about 1/4" off over the width of a single panel.
also appears the ribs are not as tall as factory.
slightly more expensive at Summit Racing, free shipping canceled the difference.

now I need to learn how to weld sheet metal, I was just getting used to 1/8 angle.

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When I did my PCV valve on my '07 2.3 the other day I noticed my steering shaft u joint bellows was trashed. They seem to be NLA, but this one on AMZ is a good fit;
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One 13mm bolt on the shaft near the firewall, one 13mm bolt down at the steering box, collapse shaft and it's out. The replacement bellows takes some tugging and some judicious levering with a small screwdriver but not too bad. I wire brushed and greased the upper shaft and packed the u joint full of grease before putting the bellows on. Easy 45 minute job.
 
Got another pic from our track photographer today. This one only a couple feet off the starting line and it looks like our Lakewood 90/10 front shocks are doing what they are supposed to.

MNIP Nov 18.png


Also had a great honour bestowed on me this past weekend. I was inducted into the Maritime Motorsports Hall of Fame - I was suprised to be nominated at last year's convention and completely shocked when they announced this year's class. Somehow I still don't feel worthy LOL.

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Read the Ford Ranger manual. Yeah, I know - last resort.

Sister-in-law noticed my driver's side headlight was out. Using the search from the past button on Amazon, I ordered a replacement.

Once the new bulb was in hand, I poped the hood on my 2002 Ranger thinking I could just reach in, twist, and remove the bad bulb. Wrong - couldn't even see it. Then removed the battery thinking that would help. Wrong again.

So, duh, read the manual. Just pulling up on the two tabs frees the headlamp assembly. 'Course then I found that Amazon sent me the wrong bulb.

So looked in my records for the correct bulb and ordered. In today and quickly changed out the headlamp bulb.

Yes I know. Should have consulted the manual first but "am male" as my wife would sigh and say.
 
Read the Ford Ranger manual. Yeah, I know - last resort.

Sister-in-law noticed my driver's side headlight was out. Using the search from the past button on Amazon, I ordered a replacement.

Once the new bulb was in hand, I poped the hood on my 2002 Ranger thinking I could just reach in, twist, and remove the bad bulb. Wrong - couldn't even see it. Then removed the battery thinking that would help. Wrong again.

So, duh, read the manual. Just pulling up on the two tabs frees the headlamp assembly. 'Course then I found that Amazon sent me the wrong bulb.

So looked in my records for the correct bulb and ordered. In today and quickly changed out the headlamp bulb.

Yes I know. Should have consulted the manual first but "am male" as my wife would sigh and say.
So your hood is a pope now?
 
Ordered a new blower motor resistor from Amazon for my 89 Ranger, Standard Motor part for $10.79 delivered.
 
These were 5/8”, rolled threads, with tall nuts. I had them made at a local heavy truck shop. They lasted around 9 years. That’s probably pretty good. I have no doubt that either the bolts have stretched or the threads are starting to give way. The fact that they aren’t very Rusty but the nuts won’t budge makes me think the threads are failing and deformed.

I’ll probably order from RuffStuff since their price is average and description is exactly what I want. I’m just irritated with them right now because they won’t honor the 10% first order discount that they keep teasing me with. I’ll call the local shop tomorrow, though and see what their current price would be.


i would try fire on the fatties. buzz em off and see ...may be fine probably just brass brush the threads and retorque.

or course at 9 years.
 
Got another pic from our track photographer today. This one only a couple feet off the starting line and it looks like our Lakewood 90/10 front shocks are doing what they are supposed to.

View attachment 120274

Also had a great honour bestowed on me this past weekend. I was inducted into the Maritime Motorsports Hall of Fame - I was suprised to be nominated at last year's convention and completely shocked when they announced this year's class. Somehow I still don't feel worthy LOL.

View attachment 120275
hmmmm,,

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When I did my PCV valve on my '07 2.3 the other day I noticed my steering shaft u joint bellows was trashed. They seem to be NLA, but this one on AMZ is a good fit;View attachment 120273
One 13mm bolt on the shaft near the firewall, one 13mm bolt down at the steering box, collapse shaft and it's out. The replacement bellows takes some tugging and some judicious levering with a small screwdriver but not too bad. I wire brushed and greased the upper shaft and packed the u joint full of grease before putting the bellows on. Easy 45 minute job.

I realize you said you have it done already. But a tidbit for anyone looking to do the same thing, whether rubber or vinyl or such. Get a big lobster pot and boil clean water in it, and it will be much more flexible. If it starts to cool off, use a ladle and just pour more hot water on where it’s getting tight.

My two cents, hope it helps
 

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