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Surprisingly not. There was some standing water but almost the whole place is covered in gravel, so it drains off pretty well and not a muddy mess. Biggest issue is that the last time they spread gravel the stuff they got was a bit too large, makes it a little rough walking and pulling a cart.The salvage yard must have been an adventure after all that rain...
I made a vacuum bleeder using engine vacuum. A mason jar with a hose long enough to run from engine to the farthest tire, sized to fit the bleeder valve, and a short hose to reach from mason jar to bleeder valve. Drill 2 holes in jar lid just big enough to have a tight slip fit for the 2 hoses. Attach long hose to a vacuum source on engine and fire it up. The bleeder should be cracked open. You will probably see some bubbles but just keep vacuum on until fluid runs clear. Don't run the master dry!I’m going through one of those times we all experience with older vehicles where there’s something wrong with everything at the same time, and I’m trying to work through one by one in order of priority.
I got the brakes done on the Road Ranger, but nobody handy to help me bleed them right now.
I did a quick look under the hood of the F250 to see if I could spot the vacuum leak for the AC. Nothing obvious. I don’t like to work on stuff out front, so I decided to move it around the back.
I’ve been driving the Missing Linc, and I’m just keeping up with the oil level in the rear end, and listen to that clickety-clack to make sure it doesn’t bust something. I don’t want to take it apart till I’m sure something else is running and stopping.
So I got in to move it out of the way for the F250. Turn the key, nothing.
Almost brand new battery, dead as a door nail. So I got the smart battery charger, and when I was putting on the positive clamp, I heard a crackle and my strobe lights came on. I took a closer look, and the clamp had cracked. It’s one of those pressed sheet metal clamps, not the lead clamp. No big deal, I’ve got a box of cables and another box of clamps.
Once I started, I didn’t want it cobbled up, so I took a brandy new cable I had. I think I got it by accident and then they credited me, and I just made a new cable. I cut it the length I wanted. I cleaned up a pretty solid heavy duty clamp I had. I spread the wire out a little bit, and put soldering paste all over it. I crimped it over the wire. Then I dropped my mini butane torch and broke it….
View attachment 118303
I ordered a new little torch from eBay. I’ll solder it when it gets here. It never ends…
so I ended the day where I thought I started…
I am sorry that I missed this until now... I got all of my lines and most of my fittings from Rock Auto. had to get one of the Master Cylinder fittings from Autozone. basically you want nickel copper alloy lines. here is the list from Rock auto for all of my parts except the booster. runs just shy of 300 bucks for all of this:Could you tell me what length brake line and part #s for this project? I'm gonna be doing same this wknd and not sure on what length to order
AGS | CNC325K | Brake Line | $ 33.79 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 33.79 |
AGS | CNE3 (CNE360) | Brake Line Length: 60" | $ 9.27 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 9.27 |
AGS | CNE3 (CNE340) | Brake Line Length: 40" | $ 7.60 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 7.60 |
DORMAN | 80189 | Power Brake Booster Check Valve Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty | $ 2.35 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 2.35 |
DORMAN | 13911 | Brake Bleeder Kit | $ 3.89 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 3.89 |
1997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 | ||||||
CARLSON | H94722 (H9472-2) | Banjo Bolt / Washer | $ 2.15 | $ 0.00 | 2 | $ 4.30 |
DORMAN | HW1457 | Brake Hose Clip | $ 0.53 | $ 0.00 | 4 | $ 2.12 |
DYNAMIC FRICTION | 35054342 (350-54342) | Brake Hose | $ 16.69 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 16.69 |
POWER STOP | L4606 | Caliper | $ 34.79 | $ 12.00 | 1 | $ 46.79 |
POWER STOP | L4607 | Caliper | $ 34.79 | $ 12.00 | 1 | $ 46.79 |
RAYBESTOS | BH380389 | Brake Hose | $ 15.89 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 15.89 |
RAYBESTOS | MC390268 | Master Cylinder | $ 59.79 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 59.79 |
RAYBESTOS | BH38813 | Brake Hose | $ 13.90 | $ 0.00 | 1 | $ 13.90 |
So, it’s a bit of a miserable task but it is possible to fish a line past the gas tank without removing anything. I’ve done it a few times. Beats trying to drop a gas tank but it’s still not exactly fun. A lot easier to do with the bed off, however. In my opinion, a bed is easier to pull than a gas tank. So if that line isn’t leaking but I have an excuse to take the bed off like a fuel pump, or rust repair or suspension repair or something, well, then it’s getting a new rear line whether it needs it or not because it’s pretty simple right then.I am sorry that I missed this until now... I got all of my lines and most of my fittings from Rock Auto. had to get one of the Master Cylinder fittings from Autozone. basically you want nickel copper alloy lines. here is the list from Rock auto for all of my parts except the booster. runs just shy of 300 bucks for all of this:
AGSCNC325K Brake Line $ 33.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 33.79 AGSCNE3 (CNE360) Brake Line
Length: 60" $ 9.27 $ 0.00 1 $ 9.27 AGSCNE3 (CNE340) Brake Line
Length: 40" $ 7.60 $ 0.00 1 $ 7.60 DORMAN80189 Power Brake Booster Check Valve
Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty $ 2.35 $ 0.00 1 $ 2.35 DORMAN13911 Brake Bleeder Kit $ 3.89 $ 0.00 1 $ 3.891997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 CARLSONH94722 (H9472-2) Banjo Bolt / Washer $ 2.15 $ 0.00 2 $ 4.30 DORMANHW1457 Brake Hose Clip $ 0.53 $ 0.00 4 $ 2.12 DYNAMIC FRICTION35054342 (350-54342) Brake Hose $ 16.69 $ 0.00 1 $ 16.69 POWER STOPL4606 Caliper $ 34.79 $ 12.00 1 $ 46.79 POWER STOPL4607 Caliper $ 34.79 $ 12.00 1 $ 46.79 RAYBESTOSBH380389 Brake Hose $ 15.89 $ 0.00 1 $ 15.89 RAYBESTOSMC390268 Master Cylinder $ 59.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 59.79 RAYBESTOSBH38813 Brake Hose $ 13.90 $ 0.00 1 $ 13.90
the top three are the brake lines. one 40 inch piece and one 60 inch peice are for the master cylinder, and they have preformed bubble flairs so you don't have to get a special tool to form them, (ended up getting that tool anyways because hey, new tool...) just cut one of the ends off and replace the tube nut on the 60 inch one to the bigger size that I had to get at Autozone... both of those lines are almost perfect length to do the master cylinder to the driver front wheel (40 inch) and master cylinder to the RABS pump (60 inch) then get the the 25 foot coil with the assorted fittings (see Uncle Gump's pic) and that should have most of what you need fitting wise to do the rest of the lines. I did not do the line from the RABS to the back axle as it looked ok and you need to remove the bed and gas tank (which was near full) to do that one. but I have the NiCop line for when I do get around to it. the NiCop line is really easy to bend, so you don't need a tube bender. I was able to do all of my bending by hand. tip on the lines... it may be easier to just leave the old lines in place and route new lines in by hand. (thank you @bobbywalter for that suggestion..) I did remove the old ones on mine, and it was a royal pain in the ass. the front one that connects the two front wheels I did not pre bend, I just fed a straight section of line and bent it as necessary to follow the frame and crossmember.
the line thickness is 3/8" if you are unsure of what type of line.
Hope this helps.
AJ
yes you are correct, 3/16th.So, it’s a bit of a miserable task but it is possible to fish a line past the gas tank without removing anything. I’ve done it a few times. Beats trying to drop a gas tank but it’s still not exactly fun. A lot easier to do with the bed off, however. In my opinion, a bed is easier to pull than a gas tank. So if that line isn’t leaking but I have an excuse to take the bed off like a fuel pump, or rust repair or suspension repair or something, well, then it’s getting a new rear line whether it needs it or not because it’s pretty simple right then.
And I believe you mean 3/16“ line, I’ve never seen bigger on the 83-11 Rangers except ones that have been modified.
I made a vacuum bleeder using engine vacuum. A mason jar with a hose long enough to run from engine to the farthest tire, sized to fit the bleeder valve, and a short hose to reach from mason jar to bleeder valve. Drill 2 holes in jar lid just big enough to have a tight slip fit for the 2 hoses. Attach long hose to a vacuum source on engine and fire it up. The bleeder should be cracked open. You will probably see some bubbles but just keep vacuum on until fluid runs clear. Don't run the master dry!