What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Maritime Drag Racing]

Got a new pic from our track photographer that caught the moment I let go of the transbrake. No dial-in so I'll say it was a Sunday morning time trial....

 

[Curious Hound]

I warshed it.

 

[Manscout]

View attachment 118031

Winner, winner; chicken dinner.

I never thought to check the level. I also could have sworn I had filled up recently. I never had a car that didn't sputter and chug before dying when running out of fuel. I think that is why I didn't check. Well! It has a new pump anyway!

 

[Roert42]

I'm not seeing the hole, but the daylight looks like a reflection to me.

I'm assuming that he thought there was a bunch more gas. IMO dropping an empty tank would have been easier than moving the bed. That would probably point to a bad/inaccurate fuel level sender.

its not. All the connections for the evap make it a giant pita

 

[Roert42]

so. dad calls. gives me new thing that identifies as a ranger.....well the color of mine anyway....













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300 with a handshaker....


wows.

lacks.....non torture device seats.

4wd.

cruise control.



awesome truck is awesome.


free awesome truck .... dont know how to take such a blessing.

couldn't ask for a better dd, had that exact set for years minus the AC. nothing to break

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I'm not seeing the hole, but the daylight looks like a reflection to me.

I'm assuming that he thought there was a bunch more gas. IMO dropping an empty tank would have been easier than moving the bed. That would probably point to a bad/inaccurate fuel level sender.

Looks like a reflection to me too.

Dropping a tank is difficult. At least the 20 gallon tanks. The front of the tank sits on a crossmember and there’s not enough room to slide it rearward off the crossmember without hitting the rear axle. So the crossmember has to come out. In addition to tank straps, skid plate (if equipped), evap lines, fuel lines, pump electrical wiring.

It’s one electrical plug, 6-8 bed bolts, and three screws that hold the filler neck to the bed. Shift the bed back and there is the pump. Much easier.

 

[JoshT]

I'm not arguing the bed vs tank thing. To each his own and situations vary. On my standard height 4x4 Rangers, given the choice between pulling the bed and dropping an EMPTY tank, I'm dropping the EMPTY tank. Full tank, 2wd, and/or lowered, I'm probably moving the bed.

Doesn't change the fact that he thought he had a lot more fuel in the tank. Any fuel hould have been a lot more fuel in that tank.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I'm not arguing the bed vs tank thing. To each his own and situations vary. On my standard height 4x4 Rangers, given the choice between pulling the bed and dropping an EMPTY tank, I'm dropping the EMPTY tank. Full tank, 2wd, and/or lowered, I'm probably moving the bed.

Doesn't change the fact that he thought he had a lot more fuel in the tank. Any fuel hould have been a lot more fuel in that tank.

Easy bro, I’m not trying to argue it, just saying that my experience is that moving the bed is way easier for me. I’ve tried dropping them and found it to be more effort than I wanted. Maybe if I had a lift it wouldn’t be so bad. But trying to lay on the ground and wrestle with it while rust and dirt is raining on you, sucks. I’m getting too old for that. I’m ready for a garage and a lift. Any work I can do standing or sitting is better than on the ground under the thing.

 

[bobbywalter]

couldn't ask for a better dd, had that exact set for years minus the AC. nothing to break

young bob is driving it.... he didnt want it.

i laughed my arse off .... told the ol man....by the 3rd trip he will love it....


i was quite sure of that because he tolerates the ranger and b2 now.

this is as powerful a version of a 300 as ever for stock units.....its actually built up a little and not stock.... but thats a different story.

but... still nutless..i used to hold the efi 300 above the 6.x na diesel on memory........this harshely brought reality back to me .... they are nutless cowards compared to anything above a crown vic or early 80s truck 302. the 6.x diesel is definitely a step UP. at least in regards to power. a properly running 4.0 is much better.

..... but in the get er did ....and a very reliable machine....as long as slow and steady is ok.... good as any.

 

[Roert42]

young bob is driving it.... he didnt want it.

i laughed my arse off .... told the ol man....by the 3rd trip he will love it....


i was quite sure of that because he tolerates the ranger and b2 now.

this is as powerful a version of a 300 as ever for stock units.....its actually built up a little and not stock.... but thats a different story.

but... still nutless..i used to hold the efi 300 above the 6.x na diesel on memory........this harshely brought reality back to me .... they are nutless cowards compared to anything above a crown vic or early 80s truck 302. the 6.x diesel is definitely a step UP. at least in regards to power. a properly running 4.0 is much better.

..... but in the get er did ....and a very reliable machine....as long as slow and steady is ok.... good as any.

That mazda 5 speed is solid too, twin I beam, 8.8, basic EFI with no bullshit. reliable is an understatement.

slow? no doubt. Mine had a 3.08 factory. 15mpg empty on the highway or with 2k in the bed up and down the back hills.

With 3.55 it was perfect, 18mpg in the hills, did not want for power. Couldn't drive on the highway, not enough gears, would get run off the road for going too slow.

 

[girllearning]

for the last few weeks I have been working on the brake system on my Ranger (see post a few pages back) replaced all of the lines from the Master Cylinder to the driver side front wheel and to the RABS unit, and replaced the line from the driver side front wheel to the passenger front wheel. New Master Cylinder and booster are bench bled and installed, lines are hooked up. New Calipers in the front. decided not to mess with the brake line from the RABS to the back axle or any of the back brakes, as the line from the RABS unit is really imbedded in the frame and requires removal of the bed and gas tank (which is full) and did not look bad, so leaving it. leaving the back brakes for now. got the bleeder screws to break loose, I feel an accomplishment there, as they are the original wheel cylinders and probably have not been bled or messed with in 27 years. Need a second person for bleeding. ended up getting a Mityvac vacuum pump for a "one man bleeding tool". that has helped but overall does work that well. not able to get a good bleed with it. also found out that the driver side rear wheel bleeder is plugged solid. replaced the bleeder screw. had some leaks in the new hard lines where they connect to the front wheel soft lines.. tightened them up. hope that I don't have to take them out and reflare them... also having trouble with the passenger rear bleeder not sealing well when tightened.. may end up replacing it as well. worst case scenario, I will rplace the back brakes and wheel cylinders (got the parts) and likely have to do the hard lines on the axles as well. probably should do the soft line, but it is likely going to make me have to address that hard line from the RABS unit, and I can likely splice into that one fairly easily, getting the soft line unclipped and replaced looks like it may be a chore... so one aggravation at a time. if I can get everything bled and drive it for a bit to make sure nothing is leaking...

Also, brake light switch. I must have hooked that up wrong, the brake lights are on all the time now. got to do the mechanics yoga and look into that again...

AJ

Could you tell me what length brake line and part #s for this project? I'm gonna be doing same this wknd and not sure on what length to order

 

[JoshT]

Could you tell me what length brake line and part #s for this project? I'm gonna be doing same this wknd and not sure on what length to order

I'm sure he'll chime in later, but you might be better off talking to the prople at your local parts counter. What's used on his truck is very likely to be different than what is used on yours, there were quite a few changes between 1997 and 2000 and some of them did affect the brake parts.

That said, if you can provide more details on what you have (your truck) and you're needing to do on it, I'm sure someone here can help steer you to the right parts for your truck.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

That mazda 5 speed is solid too, twin I beam, 8.8, basic EFI with no bullshit. reliable is an understatement.

slow? no doubt. Mine had a 3.08 factory. 15mpg empty on the highway or with 2k in the bed up and down the back hills.

With 3.55 it was perfect, 18mpg in the hills, did not want for power. Couldn't drive on the highway, not enough gears, would get run off the road for going too slow.

I swapped the M5OD in mine for a ZF5, went from 3.08 to 3.55 gears and put 31’s on my F-150. It does highway just fine. It’s still slow, but it will drag a house at the same speed it goes around empty. I don’t mind that it’s slow, it does what I need it to do, which is move anything I hook it to or load in it. Plus be as reliable as a rock, which it is. Nothing bothers that thing.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Could you tell me what length brake line and part #s for this project? I'm gonna be doing same this wknd and not sure on what length to order

If you’re talking about buying hard line to flare and bend up yourself, an extended cab Ranger takes just over a 20’ coil to do all the hard lines. There are sometimes metric bubble flares for the master cylinder and/or ABS. The rest are standard double flare. If you’re buying pre-made stuff, well, that’s a different story.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Could you tell me what length brake line and part #s for this project? I'm gonna be doing same this wknd and not sure on what length to order