• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


I usually gravity bleed brakes anymore unless there’s a problem. It’s hard finding decent help…

I put grease on bleeders on new wheel cylinders and calipers (actually pull the whole bleeder, grease the threads and run it back in). Replacing bleeders is usually not a thing around here, but I try to at least keep the bleeders free until the caliper/wheel cylinder leaks/seizes. I don’t really mess around anymore, just throw all new parts on when there’s a problem, I’m tired of tearing things apart a month after I put things together to replace what I tried to cheap out on. Just not worth the hassle.

Grease on the bleeder screw is a good tip. Thanks. That may be why I couldn’t quite get it with my harbor freight squeezy vacuum tool thing.
 
Grease on the bleeder screw is a good tip. Thanks. That may be why I couldn’t quite get it with my harbor freight squeezy vacuum tool thing.
It'll certainly make a difference, but part of the problem is the "harbor freight squeezy vacuum tool thing". Not knocking HF there the name brand mighty vac sucks just as much. All hand vacuum pumps suck IMO. I'll park to and wait for help to pressure bleed before I attempt to use one of those to vacuum bleed.

I did pickup a air powered vacuum bleeder. Did not work well at first. Once I put some grease around the bleeder and nipple, it started working great.
 
It's rare gravity bleeding doesn't work for me. There have been exceptions... but it works 99 percent of the time.

If i run the master cylinder reservoir empty during repairs... I use my Mighty Vac to pull fluid to the bleeder... then give it a little time to gravity bleed.

I usually don't have a helper either.
 
20241004_193546.jpg
 
I got a new warning light/error code on the Road Ranger today. I’m never going to fix anything again. Every time I do, something else happens. As soon as I got the brakes bled, I got this warning light and my printer wouldn’t print upstairs. It’s an evil spirit that haunts my stuff. I haven’t checked yet, but I bet the toilet doesn’t flush in one of the guest rooms either. 😤

The new code was for the charcoal canister solenoid valve thing. When I looked, from the canister to that solenoid is a piece of fuel hose, that’s OK. From that solenoid to the sensor, and the far side of the sensor up to the intake manifold, that’s a piece of clear vinyl tubing. It’s folded in half between the valve and the sensor, and it’s folded in half where it goes over the AC compressor. I probably did it when I fixed the AC. Before I order any parts, I’m going to replace all that vinyl tubing with real vacuum tubing and obviously eliminate the kinks.

I don’t know how I didn’t notice that vinyl tubing when I did the AC. I found a little of that in a couple other places, but I replaced it already.

What do you guys think the chances are that the thing will work after that?

I pulled the vinyl tubing out from the charcoal canister, and I replaced it with real vacuum tubing, and I reset the trouble light, but I didn’t drive it anywhere. We’ll see how it does later.

The vinyl tubing was almost flat over half its length, and it was kinked in three places.


IMG_2958.jpeg
IMG_2959.jpeg
IMG_2962.jpeg
 
It'll certainly make a difference, but part of the problem is the "harbor freight squeezy vacuum tool thing". Not knocking HF there the name brand mighty vac sucks just as much. All hand vacuum pumps suck IMO. I'll park to and wait for help to pressure bleed before I attempt to use one of those to vacuum bleed.

I did pickup a air powered vacuum bleeder. Did not work well at first. Once I put some grease around the bleeder and nipple, it started working great.
I got the mighty vac. tending to agree with your assessment, although I think the wheel cylinders/ bleeders themselves are 99 percent of my issues. gonna replace the wheel cylinders and the hard lines on the axle and gravity bleed it and see what happens. who knows, I might have it on the road again this week.

AJ
 
That’s why I had that picture of the pretty springs. I already had the new wheel cylinder sitting there, but it was actually the front spring that had broken and let the piston come out too far. Fortunately, I didn’t have to redo too much to swap the cylinder.

shortcuts always take too long…
Here is what I got. I also ordered new brake adjuster cables and hardware tonight, plus two more wheel cylinders that are on clearance for 5 bucks... just to keep in the Shed of Wonders... also got a set of Aerostar drums to give me 10 inch drums with fins.

Oh btw, Rock Auto has Motorcraft riveted shoes for 10" brakes for 46 bucks..

AJ
20241003_220055.jpg
20241004_230924.jpg
20241004_230903.jpg
 
when I placed the order to Rock Auto, I got htis for shipping choices. basically Tuesday October 8, 830am or in the evening. I think I am going with the end of day option... whats 8 or 9 more hours..


by end of day.JPG
 
Drove my ranger 250 miles round trip today. Left early morning and spent 5 hours today in the mtns. Drove to lassen national park on the 44, 89 that goes all the way thru the park to the 36 and back home. Have wanted to do this for sometime, and it's a beautiful place..weather is correct,. Road has quite a few turns, and not many places to stop. Took some pictures as I could. Ranger did great..on some of these mtn roads I have driven in my life especially today, great to have 6 cylinder with a manual transmission. This entire trip Rebecca was on my mind as her and i have spent endless moments in territory like this in my ranger. Here are some pictures.
That's some beautiful country!
 
while I am waiting on parts... I went ahead and replaced the hard brake lines on the rear axle. those line nuts are pretty much rusted to the lines on both ends, tried to unscrew them, but no go. grabbed the hacksaw and cut them off and used a 7/16 socket and removed the nut. then fabricated two new lines from NiCop brake line, installed them up to the wheel cylinders.

tuesday should bring me the parts I need, who knows, may have this thing on the road by next weekend.

AJ
 
Broke the law for diagnostic purposes, and possibly made a large step in straightening out the engine swap.

As mentioned elsewhere I've been chasing vacuum leaks. One of my potential leaks was the EGR valve, get smoke coming out of the holes on the bottom of the cap. I see mixed opinions on whether this was proper operation or not. I ran the leak check again yesterday with the vacuum line disconnected to see if any smoke came out of the nipple, if so then the diaphragm is bad. Well I didn't have any smoke coming out of the nipple, but I did have smoke coming out of the disconnected vacuum line. The EGR solenoid is normally closed and opens when 12v is applied, with the truck turned off the solenoid should be closed, and no smoke should have been flowing through.

New parts were not available locally. Since I was going to use the engine in an older truck I happen to have the block off plate and plug for the EGR, so I installed them to test. Truck runs better with the EGR removed. I'm pretty sure I have a bad EGR solenoid and likely a bad valve too. I'm going to give it a few days and if my symptoms remain gone, I'll be getting a new solenoid and valve to install.

I've got a few more small leaks to fix, but small enough that they shouldn't negatively affect running. Due to their location under the intake plenum, they'll wait until I pull it to replace the injectors.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top