help please i need help

[auto117584]

To test spark, you need a screw driver and a friend. Pull the coil wire off the dis and hold a screw driver in the end and hold it near the hood prop rod while a friend cranks it.

I meant test light. Isn't there 12 volts into the distributor somewhere? My electrical troubleshooting is buried deep in my brain somewhere. Can you help this fellow with a list of checks for a nospark situation? thanks.

 

[Spott]

No, 12V goes into the ignition coil (or the equivalent circuitry) and crazy-high voltage comes out. Then that high voltage goes to the distributor, then to the plugs.

Spott

 

[auto117584]

No, 12V goes into the ignition coil (or the equivalent circuitry) and crazy-high voltage comes out. Then that high voltage goes to the distributor, then to the plugs.

Spott

that's right. the coil has 12 in, a bunch out. if the coil's good, then check for spark. do distributorless Ign Sys's have coils?

 

[pcollins]

define "did a rebuild". what did you do to it. be specific.

about the clutch: before installing it, the pressure plate fingers have to be depressed, then the adjuster ring has to be rotated to its extreme counter clockwise position and held in place there while the tension on the fingers is released. Unless it doesn't have an adjustment ring. Did yours have an adjustment ring?

If it was a brand new clutch it didn't need adjusting. Like said above, its automatic adjustment 99% of the time. If by that slight chance it does need adjusting, It'll do it itself the first time the truck is run and he presses the clutch.

And besides, a misadjusted clutch wouldn't let the truck start without the pedal being depressed. thats all electrical, really.

 

[Duane867]

No. No. No no no no no. 12v test light against 40,000 volt ignition system.

Checking spark into the dis with a 12v volt TEST LIGHT (a trouble light is the one you hang off the car so you can see) will get him a blown up test light.

To test spark, you need a screw driver and a friend. Pull the coil wire off the dis and hold a screw driver in the end and hold it near the hood prop rod while a friend cranks it.

Or with a $5.00 inline ignition spark tester from HarborFreight and save your fingers.....
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...stics/inline-ignition-spark-checker-4424.html

 

[adamik1]

ok so i checked my spark and i have spark and i know for sure i have fuel and i have air so wat else would make my engine not start??

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you spray starter fluid in it while your cranking if it pops the injectors are not firing properly. If you pull a plug out after cranking on it for a bit you should smell fuel on it..

 

[auto117584]

Originally, you said you heard knocking in the engine, and you took it apart, cleaned it, and put it back together. You didn't rebuild anything. Tell us about this knocking. Did it affect the way the engine was running? How long was it going on? The last time your engine was running, it was knocking, and what else? was it running rough? Smoking? Vibrating? Backfiring? Tell us everything.

Also, what did you take apart? Did you take the heads off? Did you expose the timing belt? Did you take the timing belt off? did you remove the oil pan? Be specific.

 

[adamik1]

yeah there was a knocking noise, we knew it was a lifter clogged thats a common problem with these 2.9 motors so we decided to just take the whole engine apart and semi rebuild and clean it up. this was literally after 2 days after i purchased the veichle i drove it all the way from cali to las vegas it took 5 hours. there was no smoking or anything it ran pretty good. i took the entire motor almost apart i took everything out down to the block i left everything inside the block on like the cam shaft,pistons, and the timing chain we left alone didnt take any of that apart but everything else like the rods and heads and oil pan we took off. i did a complete engine gasket set swap and cleaned the shit out of the motor. like i said i bought it and only had it for two days before i took it apart it ran strong on the way up here but there was a hose that busted on the way up here that leaked out alot of radiator fluid it was located in the back right under the a/c fan i believe it was located in the left hand side (if your outside the veichle looking at it from the from of the truck). i have spark i have gas and i have air. it turns over but just doesnt fire. if it is possible for you guys to call me and try to help me trouble shoot it that would be great. my # is 951 973 1621 if not though not a big deal. i just really want this thing to start

 

[auto117584]

2 questions. when the hose broke, it leaked out a lot of coolant. how hot did the truck get? did it stop running from overheating? when you added coolant to it, was the engine still hot? was it running when you added the coolant, or was it still off? Did the knocking noise start after this incident?
How long/far did you drive it with this knocking noise?

second question: when you took the heads off, what did you do to this clogged lifter? anything? did you find anything?

 

[adamik1]

it only leaked out coolant when it was running and no the engine didnt get that hot cuz when i drove it up here it was 1am it was very cold out my engine didnt get that hot. i just kept throwing coolant in there so it continously had coolant. i put the coolant in when it was off. i pulled over and put coolant in and toget rid of the knocking noise i took some cleaner and cleaned it out i didnt pull out the lifters.

 

[adamik1]

the knocking nosie was before i drove it up here.

 

[auto117584]

you're not answering everyone's questions.

and i have another one: How do you know you're getting fuel?

 

[Duane867]

The lifters do not clog.
The oiling ports to the lifter assembly inside the cam bearings which are in the block clog after mild wear due to poor design. So unless you removed the radiator and grill to remove the cam and changed the cam bearings you didn't accomplish anything but putting on new valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, water pump gasket, thermostat gasket, manifold gasket, and head gaskets.
You have to remove the heads to get to the lifters so you can remove the cam to get at the cam bearings.

Now if you added an anti sludging agent or other harsh cleaning chemical to the engine to clear out the mess you more then likely did in what was left of the cam bearings and possibly others by clogging them up more after all that shit loosened up and went on the move. Thats never a good Idea unless you are prepared to remove the oil pan and scrape it out directly after running the engine for a 1/2 hour or so. Other wise the shit goes every where it shouldn't and clogs every thing it shouldn't. This is not true for all engine of course but in my experience with the 2.9 it is most definitely true.

There are so many holes in this story its turning to swiss cheese.

 

[auto117584]

There are so many holes in this story its turning to swiss cheese.

I agree with that. I don't think we're getting the whole story. He's not answering questions, and the ones he does answer, the answers are vague, not really telling anything. I give up on this one. Could it be some kind of scam? He wants someone to call him. Not me.

It took four days to find out he has spark!