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help please i need help


Ok so I timed the spark plugs and distributer but it still didn't start I check the plugs for a spark but it didn't have a spark I got brand new ones and they are t even chared so it must not be getting spark right? And also I was doing some more research and they say it might be my alternator or t starter I noticed my starter doesn't have a neg wire connected to it just a direct power from battery and my battery is fully charged
 
The body of the starter is the negative terminal, and is hooked to ground (the engine block).

If the engine is turning over when you crank it, then your starter is fine. The alternator has nothing to do with starting.

Plugs will not show charring from spark, usually. Especially not after the few dozen or few hundred revolutions from attempting to start the engine.

To check spark in a cylinder: remove the spark plug, hook the plug wire to it, hold the body of the plug against the engine block or frame (I like to use vise-grips, gently) and have someone crank the engine. Look for spark in the gap of the spark plug while it's cranking. If you have spark there, then that wire/plug/circuit is good, so put the plug back in, and try again on the next cylinder.

Please answer the questions we have asked in previous posts. If you don't, we can't help you very well.

Spott
 
ok thx and i tried that spark plug trick already amd im getting no spark its a brand new distributor cap and i timed it and it still dont run i stilll hear a clicking noise and i checked my battery and i fully charged it all night and still nothing by rebuild i mean tearing it apart to the barebones and putting brand new gaskets and some seals on it i didnt rebuild it completely but i cleaned it completey and had all new gaskets. and my o2 senser connection to the exaughts was melted so i riped it apart does that matter to get it started ?? it cranks over but doesnt start. i dont know what it could be. i have feul i checked the lines and it squired out so i know it has air and gas just not spark. (the first time i did the spark plug check i forgot to ground it and it shocked me ) does that mean it has spark ? and no i didnt ajjust the clutch that was a new thing to me was a clutch kit job so i know i have to take that out and adjust it any other questions i didnt answer please tell me what i need to tell you. thank you guys for all your help to i appreciate it alot
 
your ranger doesnt have an adjustable cluch. it is hydraulic. you need to bleed all the air out of the hydraulic line that goes in the side of your transmission. this is what is causing your squishy pedal. how long are you cranking the engine over before you stop-when you pull a motor and mess with it and put it back in-it takes a LONG time and a lot of cranking to get it to start. try fluttering the gas pedal when your starting it.
 
ok but my clutch is always on now cuz i dont have to hold down the clutch pedal to star the truck but i know your exposed to press the clutch or it wont start and ill give that another shot too but i dont know if its gonna work i think the problem has to do with the clicking noise but i cant figure out wat it is it never did that clicking noise before i took the motor out
 
You didn't answer my rebuild question. What did you do to the engine when you rebuilt it? Be specific.

If you're not getting spark, that would be the problem. Find out where the failure is. Do you know how to do that???
 
i did answer the rebuild question its above and if you didnt see it i pulled it apart and changed out all the gaskets and seals and cleaned her from top to bottom and no i dont know how to do that can you tell me ?
 
1. You stated that the engine was turning over, it is still tunring over strong?
2. No Spark at the plug, then start going back thru the inigition system, are you getting a charge from the coil? is the electronic module in the distributor good? It sounds as if you have a bad coil or module. You have to find the problem with the spark before she'll run. Once she's running then focus on the clutch issue.
 
no spark no fire. sounds like thats the problem atm. lets forget about the clutch and the engine rebuild for the moment asking him how he rebuilt his engine and giving a lecture on how he should have built it isn't helping.

now back to the problem at hand. it wont start. thats our concern and his objective.

no spark... check all fuses and links. is the ignition system getting 12v? is all the pulleys attached and the magnetic trigger intact? a possible easy check may be to check for codes.
 
i went and borrowed an ob2 code reader from my friend but i cant find my obd plug in i looked under neath next to the fuses do i have to get an obd1 reader are they the same plug in ??
 
And you wont either. Its not an ODBII set up. Its ODBI.
 
yeah i figured that out and i dont have an obd1 scan tool so i cant look up wat codes its throwing :(((
 
You don't need a scan tool to read OBD1 codes, you can use an analog multi-tester, or a 12v trouble-light. Read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html .

The O2 sensor won't make a lot of difference to starting, although it will make your engine run very poorly once it is started, so I'd replace that.

If the plug zapped you when you were checking it, you're getting something to the plugs...whether or not it's enough to get a good, strong spark is still unknown.

If you're getting no spark at any of the plugs, then the problem probably lies "upstream" from the plugs...maybe the distributor, or the coil pack, or the crank position sensor, or the ignition control module.

Also, for the sake of my sanity, could I request that you use punctuation and possibly write complete sentences? Just sayin...


Spott
 
you don't need a code reader to check your electrical system for a "no spark" condition. All you need is a 12v trouble light. Check to see if you have voltage into your distributor. Right guys? Where does he check? You might start a new thread: "89 2.9 no spark"
 
you don't need a code reader to check your electrical system for a "no spark" condition. All you need is a 12v trouble light. Check to see if you have voltage into your distributor. Right guys? Where does he check? You might start a new thread: "89 2.9 no spark"

No. No. No no no no no. 12v test light against 40,000 volt ignition system.

Checking spark into the dis with a 12v volt TEST LIGHT (a trouble light is the one you hang off the car so you can see) will get him a blown up test light.

To test spark, you need a screw driver and a friend. Pull the coil wire off the dis and hold a screw driver in the end and hold it near the hood prop rod while a friend cranks it.
 
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