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Clutch replacement 1992 XLT 4.0L, just need to be sure I have everything I need


joshsmit07

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Hi guys, I just found this place this week, and am planning on replacing the clutch in my newly-acquired 1992 XLT this Friday(8/14). I knew the clutch was bad when I bought the truck, however I was not aware that it was laying in pieces in the bottom of the bell housing, which I found when I pulled the starter in preparation for all of this. I am assuming this is due to a rear main leak, as the transmission appears to be free and the shifter feels normal. It has been a while since I've done a clutch(last one was an 83 Ranger 4-speed), so I figured I would post here and be sure I'm not missing anything.

Here is what I have new and will be replacing:
- Transmission mount
- Clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing/slave cylinder
- Rear main seal
- exhaust flange gaskets(y to cat and cat to tailpipe)
- rear shaft center support bearing

I plan to drop the transfer case first, then the transmission, seperately. I've never worked with four wheel drive, so this will be new. Are there any tricks to this part I should be aware of?

I have drained the transfer case and transmission, and sprayed PB blaster on/broken loose all the bolts to the frame. I have removed the y-pipe and cat, along with both driveshafts(marked of course).

This should be a simple swap like I'm thinking, right? There does appear to be a trans fluid leak from the top, I'm thinking shift rail plugs, does that sound right?
 


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adsm08

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Leave the t-case on the trans. All you do taking it off is make extra work. Yes it will make the trans roll a bit but you should be ok if you strap it down tight enough.
 

joshsmit07

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Leave the t-case on the trans. All you do taking it off is make extra work. Yes it will make the trans roll a bit but you should be ok if you strap it down tight enough.
Thanks for the fast reply. I forgot to mention that I also have the pilot bearing and will be replacing that also. If I read the book right, this is in the flywheel, not the end of the crank. Can I knock it out once I remove the flywheel, or do I need to remove it before I remove the flywheel?

Also, upon further inspection this morning, there appears to be some sort of vent hose coming from the transfer case, the other end of which is just hanging out up around where the shifter comes out the top. Does this need to be attached to something? It wasn't readily apparent where it goes. The book mentions it, but shows it on the opposite side.

Thanks again.
 

gw33gp

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The pilot bearing is much easier to remove after removing the flywheel. At least it is that way on my 4.0 SOHC. You did not mention surfacing the flywheel but I am guessing you are doing that since you are removing it.

I have changed clutches with the t-case on and removing the t-case first. I think it is easier to leave the t-case on if you have a transmission jack that will hold the transmission straight. The t-case, being off-center, makes the whole thing want to tilt down on the driver side. Just make sure your truck is high enough that the transmission and t-case will clear everything on the bottom in order to get it out from under the truck.

The shift rail plugs are a common leak area but the seal for the shifter plate can also leak. It should not be difficult to observe where your leak is coming from once you get the transmission out.
 

joshsmit07

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Ok, all went well so far, turns out there was indeed a rear main leak, but the clutch was just old and apparently exploded due to a combination of age, oil, and heat spidering on the flywheel surface - the flywheel definitely needed to be turned, but the cost to have it turned was about equal to a new one from rockauto, so I went with that, should be here next week sometime.

I have a further question, though. At the bottom of the back of the engine, there are two plastic clips, or shims. They are rectangular and are bewteen the bell housing and engine on the bottome two holes, they have places to clip into the engine, and one of them appears to be missing...are these important to keep the trans 'in line' with the engine? What are they, and do I need to just shim the side with the missing clip equal to the other side, or what?
 


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