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"CaddyShack" Project GO-FER

mc_muench

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The plan didn't work, so I offically have run out of ideas. What baffles me is that we had it running fine for over an hour, we haven't changed anything since then and now it just won't work no matter what...any ideas?
 


mc_muench

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It's alive!!!!!

so...I opened the garage door and saw this bike sitting in my garage collecting dust, I said to myself "I WILL GET YOU RUNNING!" I pulled her out, sat and stared at it for awhile thinking, there is only three things that could cause it to not run...:icon_confused:

1)air...it can't be that, its getting plenty of it with no filter
2)spark...no, it shocked my dad last time we ckecked for spark:icon_twisted:
3)fuel...

This has to be the culprit, and with a the gas tank all clean from the coke treatment and a brand new fuel petcock and fuel line, it has to be the carb. I checked the handy dandy book I bought from ebay:icon_thumby: and found the section on the carb, I took off the carb, drained it, set the carb back to the factory specs, put het back on, gave her a kick and heard a VROOM POP POP VROOM!!!! Then it died, kicked her again, and she sang a whole song!!!! Shut her down and tried again, same thing, but this time I drove her around the block. She doesn't like to stay running unless the choke is half on, idling near is impossible, but when she's deep in the throttle, OOOOH BABY, is that magic to my ears!!!! I figure all I have to do is, dial in the carb and I should have a running bike!!!!



Oh joyous of days, this thing is gonna be an awesome winter project.
 

mc_muench

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also, here are some pics from sometime ago...just never posted them


polishing the chrome, with some 40 ot steel wool



the mess of wires I have to deal with and figure out...
 

mc_muench

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thanks slow, im really excited to get this thing running again, I knew it was something simple, it was just a matter of time until I figured it out.
 

MountainMike

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I'd check the jets. I bough a carb of ebay for my sled that was supposed to be all original but the jets were set for a different altitude than mine and it would not stay running. Jets are cheap and they could be the culprit.
 

mc_muench

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Ill check into that Mike! I'm gonna see if I can get the carb dialed in how it is now, then go from there.

Here's an updated winter to do list, I wanna be able to drive this around town next spring...

-get it registered/street legal
-polish chrome
-wax paint
-clean every nook and cranny of bike
-get electrical working...aka brake light, blinkers, dash lights, horn
-sleeker turn signals
-Hella Supertone horns
-black air intake
-black drag handle bars
-black exhaust
-rear basket thing
-center stand
 

mc_muench

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Found more...


I got the front half of the chrome done...also found that the front fender was broken, but who needs that anyway



^ front wheel ^ compared to v rear wheel v
 

Psychopete

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Wish I knew more about that engine.. But one thing that's often over looked on a 2-cycle engine is that the crank case must be completely sealed for it to function correctly (and the carb for that matter), given that both oil and fuel go through the crank case to get to the cylinder. Sounds like there isn't enough vacuum pulling through the carb to get enough gas if you've exhausted attempts to tune it, yet it can preform at high RPM. I really can't see that being that hard to tune, carbs can be pretty forgiving on motors like that. A 2-cycle is a whole different mind set, they are similar, but actually function very differently. Not saying this is your exact problem for sure, one of those things someone would need to be there twiddling with shit, but there are things on 2-cycles that do not apply to 4-cycles and are often over looked.

Had an '80s 2-cycle lawn mowner that would just surge up and down, up and down, changed carbs and all sorts of stuff. Disassembled the engine and found that it had a bad crank seal and this caused a vacuum leak. Had a similar engine lying around so I took that apart for the seals. Worked out OK, just a lot of time involved for what it was.
 

mc_muench

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I didn't know that, that's really good to know because there is a slight oil leak from the crank case and exhaust
 

mc_muench

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So ya, Ive kinda neglected this whole project this winter, but then again everyone has a neglected project...but come spring when I can actually get the bike out of the shed I will get it running and I MEAN IT, this time!
 

ForOffRoadDriving

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The first thing i would do is get a filter of some sort on it, then find the base setting for your air screw, the only adjustable screw on the outside of the carb besides the idle screw. You said you can keep it running long enough to do some wide open runs, so when you get it back out throw a fresh spark plug in and make a wide open pass then shut it off and pull the new plug out and read the color of it. This will tell you whether you need to richen the mixture or lean the mixture and you can turn the air screw in out out to accomplish this.
 

gwaii

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The first thing i would do is get a filter of some sort on it, then find the base setting for your air screw, the only adjustable screw on the outside of the carb besides the idle screw. You said you can keep it running long enough to do some wide open runs, so when you get it back out throw a fresh spark plug in and make a wide open pass then shut it off and pull the new plug out and read the color of it. This will tell you whether you need to richen the mixture or lean the mixture and you can turn the air screw in out out to accomplish this.
reading the plug is a good way to determine rich/lean conditions,but the air bleed screw is only going to change things below 1/4 throttle.

pete's suggestion about an air leak into the crankcase is a good one,and worth looking into.2stroke engines are very sensitive to lean conditions,and running in this state can lead to a burned out piston in very short order.
i'd be checking things very carefully.
 

ForOffRoadDriving

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is there any way to verify a crank case leak? ive been working on my neighbors little ploaris 90 sportsman 4 wheeler for months and ive exhausted every possible lead as to why it wont stay running, and judging by the condition this thing is in i could believe that new crank seals are in order. is there a way to test it if it wont stay running?
 

kevinsranger

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is there any way to verify a crank case leak? ive been working on my neighbors little ploaris 90 sportsman 4 wheeler for months and ive exhausted every possible lead as to why it wont stay running, and judging by the condition this thing is in i could believe that new crank seals are in order. is there a way to test it if it wont stay running?
there is a leak down tester available, must like checking for a boost leak on a turbo car

hey op did you check compression? seems like maybe the rings are worn and you don't have good compression to fire the thing up at all times
 

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