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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


I put everything new into my Choptop except the pump and it wouldn’t hold vacuum overnight. Pressurized with 40psi of co2 and sprayed everything with soapy water. Sure enough the pump was leaking. I think I’m gonna get my big co2 tank filled and use that from now on to pressure test systems before vacuuming and filling.

My 88 town car has had an AC leak for a long time, very slow, one can a year. This year it won’t hold the charge for two days. So a question.

How did you add pressure from the outside with your CO2? I’m thinking of just using compressed air, and then cleaning out the system after I reseal it, but how do you tap into it to pressurize it?

Do I just fabricate a hose from an old Freon feed tube, cut off the can end Off, and add a tire Schrader valve?

Thanks in advance..
 
Last pallet of 2x4's they stacked them in rows of 12, this time 9-10 so it just looked taller... it was around 185 sticks so still not small :). I'm pretty sure my tractor will pick up the pallet that's 5' tall of solid wood but if not no biggie...
 
My 88 town car has had an AC leak for a long time, very slow, one can a year. This year it won’t hold the charge for two days. So a question.

How did you add pressure from the outside with your CO2? I’m thinking of just using compressed air, and then cleaning out the system after I reseal it, but how do you tap into it to pressurize it?

Do I just fabricate a hose from an old Freon feed tube, cut off the can end Off, and add a tire Schrader valve?

Thanks in advance..
So, I had pondered this for a bit. I didn’t want to use compressed air and risk pushing moisture into the system. I do have a professional set of gauges, or more precisely dad has them and I use them. I also have homebrewed beer and was getting into kegging the beer but now I need a kegerator and a place to put it. But the point of that is… I have a couple CO2 tanks kicking around. Also the regulator assemblies that I have for the kegs conveniently have a threaded fitting where it connects to the quick connection for the keg that just happens to be the correct style and size to screw onto where the yellow hose would attach to the gauges so I just connected it up, cranked the regulator up to 40 psi and started spraying around with soapy water. Only bubbles came from the center of the pump where the two halves fit together. I would have rather it been an O-ring…
 
So, I had pondered this for a bit. I didn’t want to use compressed air and risk pushing moisture into the system. I do have a professional set of gauges, or more precisely dad has them and I use them. I also have homebrewed beer and was getting into kegging the beer but now I need a kegerator and a place to put it. But the point of that is… I have a couple CO2 tanks kicking around. Also the regulator assemblies that I have for the kegs conveniently have a threaded fitting where it connects to the quick connection for the keg that just happens to be the correct style and size to screw onto where the yellow hose would attach to the gauges so I just connected it up, cranked the regulator up to 40 psi and started spraying around with soapy water. Only bubbles came from the center of the pump where the two halves fit together. I would have rather it been an O-ring…

Thanks. I have the gauges and all kinds of fittings and extra short Freon hoses. no CO2, but I have a vacuum pump, so I’m not worried about any compressed air in it. That again, I have about 20 bottles of medical oxygen, I’m not sure if they’d have any moisture in them. Nah, I don’t need to blow myself up.

I also have a couple of pretty good pressure regulators and tire chucks with gauges. So I’m thinking I’m gong to take a short Freon hose, and rig it with a tire Schrader valve, and then use a tire inflator. I have a good gauge on it, harbor freight.

The only thing I’m still fiddling with in my head a little bit is do I change the old rings and then do this? I’m a believer in if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Or do I do it first and then just fix what’s bubbling. The car has about 80,000 miles on it, garage kept, and it’s only 38 years old, so I don’t want to be changing stuff willy-nilly. 😉
 
Thanks. I have the gauges and all kinds of fittings and extra short Freon hoses. no CO2, but I have a vacuum pump, so I’m not worried about any compressed air in it. That again, I have about 20 bottles of medical oxygen, I’m not sure if they’d have any moisture in them. Nah, I don’t need to blow myself up.

I also have a couple of pretty good pressure regulators and tire chucks with gauges. So I’m thinking I’m gong to take a short Freon hose, and rig it with a tire Schrader valve, and then use a tire inflator. I have a good gauge on it, harbor freight.

The only thing I’m still fiddling with in my head a little bit is do I change the old rings and then do this? I’m a believer in if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Or do I do it first and then just fix what’s bubbling. The car has about 80,000 miles on it, garage kept, and it’s only 38 years old, so I don’t want to be changing stuff willy-nilly. 😉
I have a vacuum pump, but a lot of time the humidity is so bad around here that even with a water separator on the compressor you’ll still push water out of the air hose. If I was trying to put water in the system I would have used a garden hose.

I’d have to check but I think the gauges use a -6 AN/JIC fitting.

CO2/Argon mix would have been another possibility but it’s more expensive.

I thought about using oxygen and it probably would have been fine but I preferred an inert gas.

I know little about the AC stuff. The Choptop was missing the pump and had all the lines sawzalled off when I got it. The last motor I put in it came with a pump and I was tired of roasting when it rained or I got stuck in traffic so everything got put on new. Except the pump which turned out to be bad, so now that’s new too.
 
Why I brought up the CO2/Argon is that is what I usually run in my MIG welder, although I’m thinking of trying straight CO2 since I have a big tank for it and hear it’s cheaper than running mix gas. I was trying to work with what I got.
 
Changed the flasher relay. I had a problem with the clicker never stopping. All the lights worked fine. Put the new relay in and it stopped. Success! Then i checked all flashers again and when i put the left blinker on it was clicking way fast. Saw that back e flasher was blinking out of sync with the right side. Pulled it off and found an LED bulb, replaced with old school bulb. Now what I'm wondering is how did that signal not blink like hell before? The old relay is a Novita ep-27 and the one i just picked up from Napa is an EP-27. Either way it's back to normal.
 

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