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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


drove it across town to get a FB marketplace find. figured why not, I havent driven it in a few weeks.

AJ
 
Woke up this morning and tried to put some freon in it. Haven't been driving it since summer hit because the AC can't keep up. I assumed that cooler temperatures when we put it back together meant that we didn't get it serviced properly. Was going to get dad's help with the manifolds to check pressures, but then he went into the hospital. Got out there this morning with oneof the parts store top off cans to see if it would work. I did get a few answers.

First, definitely low on refridgerant. Gauge needle that should be steady was bouncing hard as the compressor syscled. Also finally tied odd idle change to compressor cycling. Low charge was causing the compressor to short cycle and idle to be unsteady (I was assuming maybe an IACV).

Second, the AC system does work as long as it has an appropriate charge. Short cycling cleared on up. Put in most of the can and got system charge reading mid-high in the "green" filled range on the can gauge. Lets call it 45-50 PSI. I hopped into the truck and let it cool for a few minutes while the can warmed back up. Was cooling pretty good. Hopped out to see if it would take any more, can was empty and the gauge had dropped back down to the 30-35 PSI range. Not sure if I have a leak or if the system just equalized while it was sitting there. Need to check againbut with the other events of the day I haven;t had the chance.

If I feel like doing anything in the morning, I might reattach the gauge and see if it is still holding 30 PSI. If it is, I'll get another can and see if I can top it up some more. If it has leaked down then I'll be doing a 100 replacement on the AC system after the weather cools off or I feel like I can stand to be out there working on something again. After today that might take a little while.
 
Woke up this morning and tried to put some freon in it. Haven't been driving it since summer hit because the AC can't keep up. I assumed that cooler temperatures when we put it back together meant that we didn't get it serviced properly. Was going to get dad's help with the manifolds to check pressures, but then he went into the hospital. Got out there this morning with oneof the parts store top off cans to see if it would work. I did get a few answers.

First, definitely low on refridgerant. Gauge needle that should be steady was bouncing hard as the compressor syscled. Also finally tied odd idle change to compressor cycling. Low charge was causing the compressor to short cycle and idle to be unsteady (I was assuming maybe an IACV).

Second, the AC system does work as long as it has an appropriate charge. Short cycling cleared on up. Put in most of the can and got system charge reading mid-high in the "green" filled range on the can gauge. Lets call it 45-50 PSI. I hopped into the truck and let it cool for a few minutes while the can warmed back up. Was cooling pretty good. Hopped out to see if it would take any more, can was empty and the gauge had dropped back down to the 30-35 PSI range. Not sure if I have a leak or if the system just equalized while it was sitting there. Need to check againbut with the other events of the day I haven;t had the chance.

If I feel like doing anything in the morning, I might reattach the gauge and see if it is still holding 30 PSI. If it is, I'll get another can and see if I can top it up some more. If it has leaked down then I'll be doing a 100 replacement on the AC system after the weather cools off or I feel like I can stand to be out there working on something again. After today that might take a little while.
The Schrader valves in the AC system on my 2011 both had to be replaced earlier this year because their seals had degraded, allowing all the refrigerant to leak out. That might be your culprit too. Fortunately, their replacement is fairly cheap.
 
The Schrader valves in the AC system on my 2011 both had to be replaced earlier this year because their seals had degraded, allowing all the refrigerant to leak out. That might be your culprit too. Fortunately, their replacement is fairly cheap.
If it's leaking, I'm going the nuclear option.

I should have replaced all of it when we did the engine swap, but was able to remove the AC system from the explorer intact so didn't. Then I should have replaced it all when we figured out that compressor was bad, but instead used my old 4.0L compressor (same with pulley change) and pieced it all back together with new reciever dryer, oriface tube, and 100% o-ring change. We didn't find any leaks then, but considering all of the corrosion in the donor, something could have blown out since.

If I'm going back in to do it again, it'll be getting new everything.
 
The Schrader valves in the AC system on my 2011 both had to be replaced earlier this year because their seals had degraded, allowing all the refrigerant to leak out. That might be your culprit too. Fortunately, their replacement is fairly cheap.

This was the component that was leaking after I replaced the entire system with new components. Funny thing is it held a vacuum for an hour just fine, yet started seeping refrigerant out of the high side once charged and in use. I simply tightened it down and it has been holding for a few weeks now.
 
I put everything new into my Choptop except the pump and it wouldn’t hold vacuum overnight. Pressurized with 40psi of co2 and sprayed everything with soapy water. Sure enough the pump was leaking. I think I’m gonna get my big co2 tank filled and use that from now on to pressure test systems before vacuuming and filling.
 
I was still showing that 35ish PSI in the AC system this morning and it cooled pretty good all day. From what I'm seeing I probably want the pressure a little higher in these 90° temperatures, so I'll pick up another can tomorrow and put a bit more in. At the very least, hopefully any leak is slow enough that the AC will work until the weather cools off some.
 
Sold the camper today and also had it removed. Cleaned all the dirt and grime off the top of both sides of the bed and tailgate. Looks better all around. Applied some touch up paint in a few areas.
 

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I put everything new into my Choptop except the pump and it wouldn’t hold vacuum overnight. Pressurized with 40psi of co2 and sprayed everything with soapy water. Sure enough the pump was leaking. I think I’m gonna get my big co2 tank filled and use that from now on to pressure test systems before vacuuming and filling.

I vacuumed a system recently that held fine. I should’ve tried pressure with air. as soon as I got to 30 psi, it found the weak spot in the dryer canister that used to be made out of aluminum but now steel because, yay cost savings!

Sure enough charged the Volvo and it was fine until I shut it off and the pressure equalized finding the weak spot in another steel dryer canister.

Jerks.
 
I vacuumed a system recently that held fine. I should’ve tried pressure with air. as soon as I got to 30 psi, it found the weak spot in the dryer canister that used to be made out of aluminum but now steel because, yay cost savings!

Sure enough charged the Volvo and it was fine until I shut it off and the pressure equalized finding the weak spot in another steel dryer canister.

Jerks.
I used co2 to pressurize so I wouldn’t be inducing moisture into the system
 
I broke down and ordered the driving light/fog light valence for the Road Ranger. I think I’ve looked at every 93 to 97 Ranger they’ve had at the pull-a-part (they post pictures) for the last three years, and the only one I saw was broken and missing a piece, and I never found the lights. I hate buying stuff at retail.
IMG_4807.jpeg

I have some new in the box Amber halogen driving lamps I bought for a Mercedes probably 35-40 years ago that I think will work. I have two sets, but I’m sure I’ll use the other set in the next 30 or 45 years.

When I went up to the Carlisle Ford nationals, there was a lot of driving through the mountains, and a little bit on back roads. Virtually every place I drive around here has street lights, but up there it was sometimes hard to see where the road was going, and the highbeams didn’t take care of it. And I’m an old fart and I don’t see as well as I used to in the dark.

So I’ll have another project on the shelf for when I get around to it and the temperature drops a little bit. When I started, I think I had 40 things I wanted to do to that truck and trailer, and I’ve done about 2-300, so I’m down to about 75 now….

I changed the plugs and the wires, but it’s still not running perfect, although it is running better. It’s just been too hot to get out there under the hood.

And apparently the condensate drain on my evaporator coil is plugged. When I shut off the truck, and then I start it later, the first thing it does is steam all the windows so I’ve got to get out there and find that drain and clean it out. If anybody knows where it is, that would save me a few minutes. 97 4.0 with a stick shift.
 
I broke down and ordered the driving light/fog light valence for the Road Ranger. I think I’ve looked at every 93 to 97 Ranger they’ve had at the pull-a-part (they post pictures) for the last three years, and the only one I saw was broken and missing a piece, and I never found the lights. I hate buying stuff at retail.
View attachment 131152
I have some new in the box Amber halogen driving lamps I bought for a Mercedes probably 35-40 years ago that I think will work. I have two sets, but I’m sure I’ll use the other set in the next 30 or 45 years.

When I went up to the Carlisle Ford nationals, there was a lot of driving through the mountains, and a little bit on back roads. Virtually every place I drive around here has street lights, but up there it was sometimes hard to see where the road was going, and the highbeams didn’t take care of it. And I’m an old fart and I don’t see as well as I used to in the dark.

So I’ll have another project on the shelf for when I get around to it and the temperature drops a little bit. When I started, I think I had 40 things I wanted to do to that truck and trailer, and I’ve done about 2-300, so I’m down to about 75 now….

I changed the plugs and the wires, but it’s still not running perfect, although it is running better. It’s just been too hot to get out there under the hood.

And apparently the condensate drain on my evaporator coil is plugged. When I shut off the truck, and then I start it later, the first thing it does is steam all the windows so I’ve got to get out there and find that drain and clean it out. If anybody knows where it is, that would save me a few minutes. 97 4.0 with a stick shift.
$38 is hardly “paying retail”. The last one I bought was back when you could only get them from Ford and they were almost $200. Within hours of buying it, I heated it with a heat gun and propane torch to reform it for my 2nd Gen bumper.
 
$38 is hardly “paying retail”. The last one I bought was back when you could only get them from Ford and they were almost $200. Within hours of buying it, I heated it with a heat gun and propane torch to reform it for my 2nd Gen bumper.

If I bought a new one at retail, and then I had to heat it and reform it, I’d be really pissed off! It’s the principle of the thing
 
My friend, ade, is borrowing my 04 ranger because his bmw got rear ended and totalled. He has borrowed it previously when his car was in the shop and he really liked it. He said it reminds him of trucks when he was in germany because of the roller windows and 5 speed. He is from Nigeria and most people have a hard time understanding his accent so i help him out when dealing with companies and stuff on the phone. He was in the army when i was and was in the barracks next to mine when i was in ait in south carolina. We didnt know each other but met when he got hired here at the navy base in 2012 and he shared the office with me.


I took the wheels off the 24 and cleaned them and rotated them since it will be at 10k miles this weekend. I also washed all the dead bugs off the front from the trip to nebraska and south dakota last week. It looks better now
 
Put in new hood bumpers and plug wires on the ‘07 2.3 w/ 170k. Discovered oil in the plug wells. Could be CHT sensor leaking or more likely valve cover gaskets. Ordered the 19mm deep well socket for the CHT sensor.
 

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