Did you ever manage to get it out? Struggling with the same issue on mine
I tried to pull that damn thing out about a dozen different ways for a month. I made special tools to grab it and twist it and lever it, but where it was located, you couldn’t get anything on it. I checked with everybody I knew, and an old mechanic friend gave me this:
Poor brake fluid all over it for a couple days. I had to make a funky angled funnel out of some paper rolled up because even that was hard to do!!
The reason it’s frozen in the hole is the greasy carbon crud is rock solid around the top and the O-ring. The brake fluid will eat that up in a couple days. Then I just tapped it sideways a couple times with a 5/8 inch wrench, actually very gently, and it started to move. Once it started to move, I could work it back-and-forth and eventually it came out. But it didn’t come right out or easily, I had to wiggle it forever, and eventually I worked it out.
CAUTION: if I recall, it’s a tiny 5.5 mm socket for the little screws that hold the electronic cap on. 10mm for the hold down screw and washer. The screws are made so they stay in the cap, but that bolt and that socket can fall right down in the hole when that synchro comes out. Guess how I know that. I have one of those five dollar telescoping magnets from Harbor Freight, and thank God, I was able to stick that down the hole and pick the socket out. It’s my own fault and my own stupidity, because 99% of the time when I’m working with something like that, I use electrical tape or masking tape and actually tape the joints of the ratchet and the extensions in the socket so they won’t slip off. Again, if I recall, right, I had three wobbles extensions on a quarter inch ratchet and a universal just above the socket, and you had to slide that in perfectly to get it to get to those screws.
Hope it helps
EDIT AFTERTHOUGHT: you also want to buy the alignment tool kit. It consists of five or six different colored caps that fit where the electronic sensor is on top.
Pick the right one, and it goes where the electric cap goes on, but before you stick it in the hole. BTW, I’d bathe that thing in WD-40, because it was almost as hard to get in as it was to come out. Angle/twist it when you start because when those spiral teeth engage, it’s going to twist a little bit. You want the alignment tool (which mimics the electronic cap) to be pointing somewhere backwards. You don’t have to get it in any precise spot, as long as you can get the plug into it. When you take that plastic cap off, and you put the 10 mm and washer back in, it will be aligned properly when you plug it in.
Remember to disconnect your battery for at least 10 minutes. Turn your air-conditioning on high before you put the lead back on, and let it run for two or three minutes after you start it.
If you have to pump the gas to keep it from stalling, let it level it out, but then do the exact same thing a second time. It should start up and level out on its own. If you have to tap the gas, that throws the learning off, so maybe a third time.
And one last thought, I replaced most of the engine control sensors before I zeroed in on that synchro. When I got that in, I still had a check engine light show up. It turned out that I had a faulty brand new coil six pack that I had to replace a second time.
Hope it helps.
If you need more detail, PM, me and I’ll give you my phone number and we can chat
