SOLVED: 4X4 does not engage at all after new transfer case motor.

[A4LD_Nghtme]

Hello! I swapped out my 4x4 transfer case motor on my 1990 Bronco II XLT and I now have no lights at the dash at all and zero control module actuation. Before the swap the lights would come on for both 4 Hi and 4 Lo and the you could hear the 4x4 control module function. Now there is zero anything after the brand new motor swap.

I have ran the following tests from https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-ranger-4x4-module-diagnosis-1994-older/

As follows here were my results and I still have zero lights, control module actuation and of course zero engagement.

Diagnostics:
Step 1.
Fuses are good. Pass

Step 2.
4x4 module clicked and flashed. Pass

Step 3.
a. Test between terminals 1 and 2. Pass
b. Test between terminals 1 and 3. Pass
c. Terminal 4 and ground. Pass
d. Terminal 5 and ground. Pass

NOW HERE IS WHERE IT GETS MESSY FOR ME TEST-WISE!!!

Step 4. The next step will check the circuitry to the shift motor. Your shift motor must be hooked up for this to work. Grab the 8 wire connector that is unplugged from the 4×4 module. It will be tan in color. Check the following:
a. Test between terminal 1 and ground. Pass
b. Test between terminals 2 and 3. Pass
c. Test between terminal 8 and 4 = 0 ohms, test between 8 and 5 = 0 ohms, test between 8 and 6 = 0 ohms and test between 8 and 7 is zero ohms. I am not getting high resistance in 7 nor 5 like I should. This test states to "connect an ohmmeter between terminal 8 (yellow/white) and terminals 4 (violet), 5 (white), 6 (brown/white) and 7 (orange/white), respectively. Refer to the following chart for the appropriate ohmmeter readings in each transfer case position."

Step 5. Up to now, the following should have been verified:
a. You verified that:
YES 1) All fuses are good.
YES 2) The 4×4 module tested ok, and has power/ground (make sure the pigtail connector isn’t corroded – is common among rust belt trucks)
YES 3) The 4×4 switch tested ok.
Partial YES 4) The shift motor circuitry tested ok. (FAILED TO GET CORRECT RESISTANCE READINGS BETWEEN TERMINALS 8 AND 4, 5, 6 AND 7. although 4 and 6 should be short or zero ohms)
Now I was iffy about continuing the test after failing part C of step 4 but I trudged on for more information.

NEXT
Back probe the solid orange wire through the connector located on the shift motor side. You are essentially checking for voltage at this pin to ensure that it is getting voltage, and that the connector is good. Next, turn the key to run and push the 4×4 switch. You should see 12 volts on the volt meter. If not, ensure that the volt meter has a good ground and try again. TEST FAILED. 0 Volts detected(after multiple probing and changing grounds for better grounding)
2) If you’ve got nothing still, go to step 6.

And I kind of lost hope at that point.

Does anyone have an idea what could be occurring. She is a great RWD vehicle but I hate having all that extra weight from a front diff that doesn't get used at all. Thabk You so much for any information.

 

[franklin2]

Sounds like a bad new motor.

 

[ecgreen]

Sounds like a bad new motor.

Was going to say the same thing.

 

[A4LD_Nghtme]

Sounds like a bad new motor.

I'm going to order a new one and get her in and report back! Thank you for the reply!

 

[A4LD_Nghtme]

I have an update. Put in another fresh transfer case shift motor and I got my lights back and 4x4 module functioning.

Now here's my only issue. I only hear the hubs engaging when I put it into 4 lo. I get light and module noise when 4 hi is engaged but I do not hear the hubs locking as I do when I shift into 4 lo. For example, if I drive with 4 hi selected and stop after 10 or so feet, engage 4 lo button and flip to neutral I am fully hearing the hubs engage. I DO NOT hear them engage when I select only 4 hi.

Is this normal or am I truly not engaging in 4 hi? Thank you to all for any information.

 

[rumblecloud]

Engage 4hi and park the front tires on some loose gravel. Then let her rip. That should give you some indication.

 

[franklin2]

Drive it a little bit and then try to turn it on dry pavement. If the steering wheel starts fighting you in the turn you are in 4x4. Be careful and don't force it too much.

The axles have to "get ahead" of the wheels for the auto hubs to work. That is the reason you have to back up 8-10ft to release them. You are "unscrewing" the hubs by backing up with the front axle not turning.

Also be careful after you initially engage 4x4 about spinning and high rpm. If the hubs haven't engaged yet, but do in the middle of a high rpm spin, it can be a pretty big bang when they do. That's not good for them. No matter what 4x4 system you have, it's always prudent to predict and put it in 4x4 mode before you get in trouble.

 

[rumblecloud]

Franklin2 is right. Forgive my earlier attempt at humor.

I am always more careful now when I engage 4WD mode than I was when I was little and didn't know any better.
When turning with 4x4 engaged you will feel resistance as the steering wheel gets close to its lock or end-of-travel position.
I have manual locking on my Ranger. With the hubs in the lock position and when I press the 4x4 button on the dash to engage them, I sometimes only hear the click of the shift motor - sometimes barely audible. Other times, such as when it hasn't been engaged for awhile,it is a louder bang.

 

[A4LD_Nghtme]

Still testing. Co tinued with Step 4 and got some odd readings between terminal 8 and 4, 5, 6, and 7. Between 8 and 4 I got a low reading but not zero. 8 and 5 was 0 ohms, 8 and 6 was a very low resistance reading like 8 and 4, and finally 8 and 7 was a 0 reading like between 8 and 5

 

[A4LD_Nghtme]

UPDATE!!! Possibly wrapped on this.
The 8 pin Connector had pin 1, 2, 4, 6, and 7 loose due to the internal locking pieces of plastic breaking. I got them to make contact snuggly and I still get 4 lo while sitting and 4 hi now audibly engages while rolling in drive or reverse.
Only thing is it clicks very loudly when I'm in 4x4. I'm thinking that's the hubs. I have some WARN 29071's for the job and the nut and spindle kit too. Hopefully it's not a bad diff haha. Hubs first. I'll break a sweat from jumping to conclusions after.

 

[A4LD_Nghtme]

FINAL UPDATE AND GREAT INFO IMHO!!!!

CLICKING IN PASSENGER HUB GONE AFTER MANUAL HUB CONVERSION!!!!

INFO I NEEDED TO FIND OUT MYSELF.

AUTO spindle nut socket is: Performance Tool Part# W83241(pick up order to oreillys). my driver side was completely siezed(even a pain to remove the pin but I got it out with some taps and a magnet) so I needed this and one of my 1/2in breakers, passenger side nut was removed easily with a channel lock.

Manual socket Performance Tool Part# W1271(found in store oreillys). This is for the conversion nuts(both).

Let's consider this wrapped and a nearly full 4x4 fix. "Nearly" because I didn't have to redo wiring and get into the real nitty gritty

 

[ecgreen]

I like your positive attitude! Stick around!