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My 1996 Mazda B2300 2.3L Manual Clutch Adventure!


Nezorf

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My 1996 Mazda B2300 2.3L Manual Repair Thread. Current Issue: Temp Gauge

I thought I would start a thread for questions about my truck but also as a subsequent diary/walkthrough.

My background:
  • Ex-Motorcycle mechanic
  • Basic car maintenance know how (oil changes, brakes, etc)
  • General tinkerer
  • Minneapolis, MN with a partially insulated garage
The Story:
I just recently bought a 1996 Mazda B2300 (2.3L manual transmission, 203K miles) off of craigslist for $350. The previous owner said that he had owned it for a while and the clutch went out. He brought it to the dealer and they said that his master or slave cylinder went out (he conveniently couldn't remember). I bought it anyway as I need a truck, and $350 is hard to pass by. I got it home by starting it it in first, and speed shifting home. The previous owner said that he replaced the clutch 60k miles ago.


Summary: [updated 4/9/12]

Problems:
-Clutch had zero pressure. Hit the floor and did nothing to the engine. (FIXED)
-Leaking coolant out of the Heater Core Valve (FIXED)
-Dead Temperature Gauge
-Busted up front grill and bumper
-Picky as hell door locks
-No license plate lights





FIRST PROBLEM:
Clutch!


What I have done so far:
  • I tried to do some bleeding in the truck and did not work.
  • Disconnected and removed the master cylinder assembly as per the excellent youtube videos
  • Bench bled it, and got plenty of pressure.
  • Reinstalled in and bled the slave cylindar.
  • Closed the slave bleeder and pressed on the pedal only to have the master cylinder break and spray brake fluid everywhere.
  • Purchased a new master cylinder from O'reilly auto
  • Bench bled the new master
  • Installed the new master cylinder
What it does now:
  • If I open the slave cylinder bleeder, the pedal loosens up and I can pump plenty of fluid through the cylinder.
  • Once the bleeder is closed, the pedal becomes rock solid.
  • I have tried pumping the pedal but no change.
  • I have redone the quick-connect multiple times to ensure that it is seated properly.

What I think is wrong and what I'm planning
  • I've read TRS - Slave Cylinder Stuck?? and I'm assuming I have the same problem
  • Purchasing a new slave cylinder and planning on pulling the transmission
  • Bought a new Haynes manual and should see it on thursday.
  • I'm planning on taking plenty of photos and posting them here for reference
My questions:
  • Am I on the right track?
  • Any input?
  • Is there anything that I should change in my process while I'm in there?
 
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Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: F9A1A579ACFAD1: October 1st, 2021

jessev

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The ol' lady had a '96 B2300 that did the same thing. I never took the time to figure it out. Wish I had. Wish we still had that truck. Oh well...

When you get it going, if no other major gotchas rear their ugly heads you will have gotten yourself a fun truck...
 

trail B2

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Your doing what I would be doing.If you tear that thing out replace it don't mess with it.Make sure the connector on the slave looks exactly the same.
 

dorman68

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Nezorf

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Update

So my current job interview/vetting process had a pause so i decide to make some pizza, crack a beer and start up the clutch replacement

Got the truck up on my brand new custom DIY made "jack stands"
Got the lumber from HD on cull so all four stands cost less than $20 and I have plenty of lumber left over



It's about half done right now and I have a quick question
I'm replacing the slave cylinder and it looks a bit different
This is my old one

And this is my new one


Is this a problem or is it just a newer model??

I bench bled my new slave and it works GREAT! and the pedal works just fine too. So here is hoping!

More random photos on my flickr, but I will organize later.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49022833@N02/
 

Eaglefixer

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looks just like the ones I installed in my 96 Ranger
 

Nezorf

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We put in the transmission with no worries last night.
The clutch pedal feels nice and depresses the clutch beautifully. We haven't tested it with the engine running yet though.

A few hiccups but nothing major
-One of the bolts on the rear end of the transmission got cross threaded so i'm going to have to poke at that one.
-My friend over tightened the ground on the lower starter solenoid and cracked the casing so I'm going to have to rewire that a bit. (photos pending)
-I forgot to buy some mercon.



Notes:
I bench bled the clutch slave before I put it in, as its easier that way.
The problem with doing that is that the slave is at full extent when installing the transmission so its next to impossible to push it in. This was solved by opening the clutch reservoir and connecting the quick connect. This allowed me to depress the slave and push the transmission forward.

In order to access the far top bolts of the transmission there is two options. 'hugging' the transmission or multiple extensions.
-Hugging the transmission consists of putting an arm on each side of the transmission with your head toward the back of the truck and your feet sticking out from the front bumper. This allowed me to get to the bolts with a 1/4" ratchet.
-We also used 3' of ratchet extension to get over the top of the transmission. This method worked pretty well but wasn't straight enough for me to trust a torque wrench. In order to do this you have to have removed the middle cross-member and lowered the engine. .
 
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Nezorf

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Woo!

So got the truck back together, changed all the fluids and BAM working truck!

It works great. The clutch is nice and stiff. Super responsive. The transmission is making a whirring noise when the clutch is not engaged, but i think that is more because the gasket separating the cab from the transmission for the shifter is in rough shape.

Here are some more photos

Good shot of the clutch


Another shot of the clutch


Fuel Filter location


I removed these bolts to take out the crossmember to easily remove the transmission.


Dropped crossmember


Removed M50D-R1 transmission


After replacing everything while cleaning up we came across this gasket. Anyone recognize it? A good project always has spare pieces right?
 

Nezorf

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So 2000 miles later the clutch is working great

Heater core valve.
Parts were about $22. I replaced it with the motorcraft from Oreilly and it works great. I didn't even drain the radiator, i just unhooked the bottom two, undid them quickly and tipped the bottom two hoses and the valve upwards so they didn't leak. 10-15 min including cleanup!
 

Nezorf

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Moving to new thread
 
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rboyer

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That "spare piece" was actually sleeved over your shifter stub on the transmission. It was part of your inner shifter boot. Pull the shifter boot on your truck and look at where the shifter mates to the stub. I recommend replacing your inner shifter boot since it is a high potential for fluid to leak out over time. This can cause transmission failure if you don't check and add fluid every once in a while. I don't stock the parts anymore because it costs me too much to buy in quantity but the whole "shifter repair kit" can be had on ebay for $28 and is a good investment towards the life of your truck.
 

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This part?

Awesome Thanks!
I'll look into the shifter rebuild.
 

rboyer

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Yeah that's it. It's actually a rubber seal that seals the shifter stub to the transmission and prevents oil from leaking out the top. Although it does take a long time to leak a large amount it's still an oil leak nonetheless.
 

Nezorf

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Updates and Questions

Just going to start a new thread. Realized I couldn't move this to a new section on my own.
 
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