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BlackBII's white ranger


RustyShackleford94

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Stayed up reading this thread last night, finished this morning. I freakin love this thing man, amazing work!
 


BlackBII

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gonna do the old two passenger side soft lines and reuse the stock rear Ranger center soft line trick? Knowing you you probably have a lot fancier plan, but I liked the simple route... Especially since I just grabbed a second line and bolted it to the caliper while I was at the junkyard...

I've abused the snot out of the 8.8 in my Ranger, while you are reworking things I definitely suggest welding the axle tube seams to the pumpkin... but if memory serves you're using a traction bar so you'll already be welding in that area :)
I was actually planning on using the factory Explorer lines, but I guess looking at it now that might not work. I replaced all the lines on my ranger when I did the lift, but I don't remember what lines I used on the back. I guess we'll find out when I get it in there! Good thinking on welding the tubes. I'll do that for sure
 

BlackBII

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Shran

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BlackBII

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I used two passenger side hoses on mine...plus a Skyjacker extended brake hose/splitter in the middle and redid the hard lines. The passenger side hoses have little tabs that you can use to bolt onto something... I had to really dig to find this but here's my swap thread from 12 years ago: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/another-8-8-swap-this-one-with-discs-and-lots-of-pics.46418/
Ah I see. Thanks for the link! I have everything to do new hard lines. The way Ford did the drivers side on the Explorer is dumb
 

scotts90ranger

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Yeah, you get all the room for all the suspension travel you want as long as it's only 4" of travel that you want... Using two passenger lines is pretty clean and simple... I just flared the stock hard line in the center of the axle for the two new nuts, worked fine. On mine we just pulled the stock bump stop and put a shock spacer on the bottom of the frame to drop the hard line down further, not the cleanest way to do it but it's worked just fine...

I mentioned welding the tubes because I've spun one, but it took some extreme measures and lots of axle wrap...
 

BlackBII

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Yeah, you get all the room for all the suspension travel you want as long as it's only 4" of travel that you want... Using two passenger lines is pretty clean and simple... I just flared the stock hard line in the center of the axle for the two new nuts, worked fine. On mine we just pulled the stock bump stop and put a shock spacer on the bottom of the frame to drop the hard line down further, not the cleanest way to do it but it's worked just fine...

I mentioned welding the tubes because I've spun one, but it took some extreme measures and lots of axle wrap...
Yeah looking at it now and I think the two passenger lines is the way to go.

I got the 7.5 out yesterday and it was interesting working on a truck that's been painted. Being careful about not scratching/denting it was a new experience for me

 

BlackBII

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Just need to get the larger flange on the driveshaft and it'll be done

I ended up using the factory 8.8 lines, and just adding an extension piece, part # BH36593

I had to add a small shim to get the pinion depth set, backlash came out right at spec on the first try thankfully





 

BlackBII

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Also, check out the porosity on this factory spring perch weld

 

Roadings

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Also, check out the porosity on this factory spring perch weld

Big yikes on that weld. Makes you want to question every other weld
 

DRanger024

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I used two passenger side soft lines on mine and welded mounting tabs to the back side of the Barnes 4x4 spring perches. Worked pretty well. Ni-cop lines if rust is an issue.
66183


One thing I didn’t do that I regret, especially since I stick welded everything to the axle tubes and I have the correct rods for it, is not welding the tubes to the diff housing.

Hold on to your hat the first time you mash the brakes. They flat out WORK.
 

scotts90ranger

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To be honest when I twisted an axle tube I was in 4 low first gear WOT doing a tractor pull and axle wrap started and it was enough to twist a leaf spring, bend and twist the driveshaft... When I welded my tubes I just used 7018 welding rod in my stick welder...

That extension deal is pretty simple, I like it, I might do that for future swaps...
 

Shran

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I like that extension hose, I'll have to keep that in mind for next time. Sure would be easier that way than redoing everything.

Feel ya on trying not to scratch the paint and stuff - I have a front axle seal leaking on my stepside truck that I painted... NOT looking forward to pulling the beam to fix that while working around shiny paint.
 

BlackBII

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I do need to weld on some tabs to mount the soft lines, I'll do that today. Your install looks good @DRanger024

I ran a short 2" or so bead on top and bottom of the tube/housing, just because I was always there and welding. This truck probably wont ever see more than a dirt road, so I doubt I'll ever twist the tube. I used Tig and some er70 and it seemed to weld just fine.
 

BlackBII

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Tire Size
33
I like that extension hose, I'll have to keep that in mind for next time. Sure would be easier that way than redoing everything.

Feel ya on trying not to scratch the paint and stuff - I have a front axle seal leaking on my stepside truck that I painted... NOT looking forward to pulling the beam to fix that while working around shiny paint.
Yeah using factory anything is typically easier, as long as you can adapt it. I draped an old sheet over the truck to protect it when I was grinding and welding and such. It'd be nice to have a larger garage!
 

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