80's Ranger 4x4 for the Trails

[PetroleumJunkie412]

The upper blocks are factory. Lowers are not.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Is this suspension lift height equal to those two blocks? Or is it added to something else too? Just talking about suspension lift not body lift.
If I take a block out (assuming just one block is safe) how would I lower the front to match it?

Get new u-bolts (factory replacement ones) and ditch the bottom blocks.

Then do this:

How-To: BellTech 6400 Shackle Install - The Ranger Station

Original Poster: mjonesjr & Kona Difficulty: 4 out of 10 Time to install: 45 minutes to 1 hour Disclaimer: TheRangerStation.com, TheRangerStation.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this … Continued

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And you will end up about where you started for ride height.

Depending how "into it" you want to go there are other options like different rear springs and whatnot but more $$ and complexity

Suspension and Body Lifts - The Ranger Station

DISCLAIMER: Activities and vehicle modifications appearing or described at The Ranger Station and it’s pages may be potentially dangerous. We do not endorse any such activity for others or recommend it to any particular person – we simply describe … Continued

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[ericbphoto]

It would probably be easier and cheaper to replace the rear blocks with proper springs and/or different shackles.

Overall, your height looks good. I know its just personal preference. But I would keep the lift. Just make the rear safer.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Thanks guys,
So from what I understand, I am effectively replacing the u bolts with OEMs meant to fit with just having my “top” blocks, losing bottom ones. At that point my rear will be lower than the front by the amount the former bottom block was. To my eye it looks like less than 2”.
Then, I install those shackles to re-raise the rear. Is there adjustment to get it just right or do I select shackles of a certain size ..
As long as the front looks safe, I’ll keep it. I like the lift. I may bring the body lift down an inch but may also keep the 3”.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Body lift has advantages and disadvantages... generally speaking, I do not care for them.

Adjustable shackles can be had from advance auto, ebay, Amazon, etc. I run them on all of mine (all of my trucks are lifted in one way or another). They tend to be quite a bit beefier than the factory ones.

From experience, 1750lb rear springs and lift shackles will amount to 3-4 inches total lift in the rear with factory blocks.

 

[MikeG]

If you want to run the rear height the same, on option is to get a SINGLE lift block (of whatever height you want). The factory one has the bumpstop, but non 4x4 trucks don't use that. The bumpstop for them just sticks down from the frame and (presumably) contacts the axle tube, before anything bad happens. If you can't find a lift block with the height you want and an integral bumpstop, then you likely can get away without running a bumpstop at all, if you don't routinely carry a ton in the back, or jump the truck off-road.

The advice to get NEW u-bolts (doesn't matter who they are from) is because the u-bolts can stretch, fatigue, etc. Not knowing any better I re-used the originals when I lifted my truck, but it's been so long and they've pretty well rusted beyond the point that they could vibrate loose, so I'm not gonna mess with them.

 

[ericbphoto]

If you want to run the rear height the same, on option is to get a SINGLE lift block (of whatever height you want). The factory one has the bumpstop, but non 4x4 trucks don't use that. The bumpstop for them just sticks down from the frame and (presumably) contacts the axle tube, before anything bad happens. If you can't find a lift block with the height you want and an integral bumpstop, then you likely can get away without running a bumpstop at all, if you don't routinely carry a ton in the back, or jump the truck off-road.

The advice to get NEW u-bolts (doesn't matter who they are from) is because the u-bolts can stretch, fatigue, etc. Not knowing any better I re-used the originals when I lifted my truck, but it's been so long and they've pretty well rusted beyond the point that they could vibrate loose, so I'm not gonna mess with them.

That is an option. However, that single tall lift block adds a lot of leverage to the springs for axle wrap during hard acceleration and deceleration. It’s still not a great idea.

 

[MikeG]

Agreed 100%.... but a single tall lift block is still safer than two stacked blocks. Anyway, you are correct and thanks for pointing that out.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Anyway, you are correct and thanks for pointing that out.

Well MikeG, you won the internet today.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you want to run the rear height the same, on option is to get a SINGLE lift block (of whatever height you want). The factory one has the bumpstop, but non 4x4 trucks don't use that. The bumpstop for them just sticks down from the frame and (presumably) contacts the axle tube, before anything bad happens. If you can't find a lift block with the height you want and an integral bumpstop, then you likely can get away without running a bumpstop at all, if you don't routinely carry a ton in the back, or jump the truck off-road.

The advice to get NEW u-bolts (doesn't matter who they are from) is because the u-bolts can stretch, fatigue, etc. Not knowing any better I re-used the originals when I lifted my truck, but it's been so long and they've pretty well rusted beyond the point that they could vibrate loose, so I'm not gonna mess with them.

Non 4wd's use the axle for the bumpstop to catch, the big tab on the 4wd block just replicates that for the 4wd's.

If you don't have a real bumpstop your shocks become the bumpstops.

 

[MikeG]

Non 4wd's use the axle for the bumpstop to catch, the big tab on the 4wd block just replicates that for the 4wd's.

If you don't have a real bumpstop your shocks become the bumpstops.

Never thought about that. Since the whole thing has been lifted, there's no telling, as I'd assume the shocks were replaced as well.

If he puts in a lower (single) lift block then it would be a rude surprise if the shocks bottomed out and blew apart, or ripped the mounts off the axle.....

 

[MikeG]

Well MikeG, you won the internet today.

I'm gonna paint my truck pink and put a unicorn on it to celebrate! LOL

 

[ericbphoto]

Never thought about that. Since the whole thing has been lifted, there's no telling, as I'd assume the shocks were replaced as well.

If he puts in a lower (single) lift block then it would be a rude surprise if the shocks bottomed out and blew apart, or ripped the mounts off the axle.....

We are not recommending just pulling out the extra blocks. We are recommending removing the extra blocks and replacing shackles, etc. with different ones. That retains the current ride height with safer engineering and the shocks are unaffected.

 

[MikeG]

Gotcha

 

[eightynine4x4]

Alrighty I’ll remove the lower blocks to keep just the OEMs, put in new OEM Ubolts, and add the shackles linked in the article. It says they’re about 2” lift, so that should be pretty close to what I have now.

As for that steering stabalizing cross shock thing in front.. can I really just remove it? Someone didn’t have some good reason to install it?

one random thing I didn’t mention before was that the front left shock is literally dangling unattached at its bottom. So there’s that.

lastly, I’d love to get as firm a feel as possible in this high stance. I know the amusement park ride feel comes with the territory, but the more stability I can gain the better. Perhaps firmer front shocks?