Benz om617

[simpler=better]

Old pic:

She's a blast

 

[1991fordranger1]

Simple=better have you ever had to spill time your diesel? I've done mine after I tore her down to seal everything and she runs and all but still seems a little off aka black smoke any tips on that or any diesel guys reading this? Finding a detailed manual for tis motor not a Haynes is next to impossible any info is geeay

 

[rangerscout]

Does It still have the ALDA hooked up if so you have to adjust it. They really steal power so all we've done is take em off

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[simpler=better]

Simple=better have you ever had to spill time your diesel? I've done mine after I tore her down to seal everything and she runs and all but still seems a little off aka black smoke any tips on that or any diesel guys reading this? Finding a detailed manual for tis motor not a Haynes is next to impossible any info is geeay

yup, I've drip timed mine. Peachparts.com has a nice writeup, and superturbodiesel.com has all the go-fast you can ever want. I'm on both forums if you wanna check it out.

Stock was 24* BTDC, i like 26-28* for performance. 28* might knock so keep an ear out when you start it. if it really knocks it will hole a piston in no time.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/Thread-Cheap-Tricks

the checklist:
chain stretch/cam timing
injector pop pressure and spray pattern
injector drip timing
fuel return spring pressure
rack damper adjustment
ALDA adjustment
Increase boost to 12-14psi (all that's needed)
Get the transmission shifting right

The best $75 I spent was getting my injectors pop balanced

You can get 315 nozzle injectors for around $250/set, they flow more fuel.

I'm experimenting with delivery valve mods and prechamber mods, but nothing's proven yet and we may melt an engine

 

[seebeexee]

Simple=better have you ever had to spill time your diesel? I've done mine after I tore her down to seal everything and she runs and all but still seems a little off aka black smoke any tips on that or any diesel guys reading this? Finding a detailed manual for tis motor not a Haynes is next to impossible any info is geeay

As rangerscout mentioned, if the ALDA is still connected, it will likely need adjusting. Fully open will give you the most power, but will also cause more black smoke in the exhaust. I fiddled with mine a lot on my '84 Mercedes 300SD and before I rebuilt my injectors, fully open caused a lot of black smoke in the exhaust, and I was getting around 23 MPG.

That brings up my next, and most important point (in my opinion): rebuild the injectors. This procedure made a HUGE difference in the way my engine ran. It's likely your injectors still have the factory nozzles in them, which will be worn and all coked up.

I built my own pop tester with a port-a-power hydraulic pump and balanced my injectors to within 2 bars or each other. That is very important. I had to add .10mm shims to each injector to get them at the proper 135 bar rating. Plus, the spray pattern was like a squirt gun rather than an atomized mist.

The key to the injector rebuild is to use Monark brand injector nozzles. They are of superb quality and are the best available. They are the only ones still made in Germany. Even the OEM Bosch nozzles are made in India now.

mercedessource.com has the kit you'll need to do the injectors. It's the best $140 spent. After rebuilding mine, I left the ALDA fully open and I get NO black smoke in my exhaust. Plus, now I'm getting 29 MPGs consistently (31 MPGs on all-freeway trips). Power and acceleration speed have both increased as a result of the injector rebuild.

Here's the link to the nozzles:
https://mercedessource.com/store/5-cylinder-617-monark-diesel-fuel-injector-nozzles-w-heat-shields

You'll also likely need to replace the injector return hoses that go between the injectors and the plug on the last injector.
Here's the link for that kit:
https://mercedessource.com/store/diesel-fuel-injector-return-braided-hose-instructions-60-length

Proper lapping of the injector halves is key to guarantee they re-seal well with no leaks once you're done. Even with proper lapping using 3200 grit micro-mesh, two of my injectors leaked between the two injector halves for 3 days, then suddenly stopped and haven't leaked since.

By the way, the full Mercedes-Benz Factory Service Manual for this engine is available in PDF form, fully indexed and categorized. It has been invaluable for me with my car. PM me your email address and I'll forward the email I received from one of the MB diesel sites as a response to my request for the manual.

Sorry for the long post. I hope this helps.

 

[1991fordranger1]

The motor ran clean on the bench I've just rattled something open that the pressure lines need to correct I actually found a schematic for the lines and control valves my injectors were rebuilt and I already replaced the return line

 

[ronclark]

As rangerscout mentioned, if the ALDA is still connected, it will likely need adjusting. Fully open will give you the most power, but will also cause more black smoke in the exhaust. I fiddled with mine a lot on my '84 Mercedes 300SD and before I rebuilt my injectors, fully open caused a lot of black smoke in the exhaust, and I was getting around 23 MPG.

That brings up my next, and most important point (in my opinion): rebuild the injectors. This procedure made a HUGE difference in the way my engine ran. It's likely your injectors still have the factory nozzles in them, which will be worn and all coked up.

I built my own pop tester with a port-a-power hydraulic pump and balanced my injectors to within 2 bars or each other. That is very important. I had to add .10mm shims to each injector to get them at the proper 135 bar rating. Plus, the spray pattern was like a squirt gun rather than an atomized mist.

The key to the injector rebuild is to use Monark brand injector nozzles. They are of superb quality and are the best available. They are the only ones still made in Germany. Even the OEM Bosch nozzles are made in India now.

mercedessource.com has the kit you'll need to do the injectors. It's the best $140 spent. After rebuilding mine, I left the ALDA fully open and I get NO black smoke in my exhaust. Plus, now I'm getting 29 MPGs consistently (31 MPGs on all-freeway trips). Power and acceleration speed have both increased as a result of the injector rebuild.

Here's the link to the nozzles:
https://mercedessource.com/store/5-cylinder-617-monark-diesel-fuel-injector-nozzles-w-heat-shields

You'll also likely need to replace the injector return hoses that go between the injectors and the plug on the last injector.
Here's the link for that kit:
https://mercedessource.com/store/diesel-fuel-injector-return-braided-hose-instructions-60-length

Proper lapping of the injector halves is key to guarantee they re-seal well with no leaks once you're done. Even with proper lapping using 3200 grit micro-mesh, two of my injectors leaked between the two injector halves for 3 days, then suddenly stopped and haven't leaked since.

By the way, the full Mercedes-Benz Factory Service Manual for this engine is available in PDF form, fully indexed and categorized. It has been invaluable for me with my car. PM me your email address and I'll forward the email I received from one of the MB diesel sites as a response to my request for the manual.

Sorry for the long post. I hope this helps.

Whats the specs for this motor? how well does it power a ranger? better or worse than a 4.0L?

 

[seebeexee]

Whats the specs for this motor? how well does it power a ranger? better or worse than a 4.0L?

Power specs can be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_OM617

My car is an '84 MB 300SD, so it has an OM617.951 with 125 horsepower and 180 ft-lbs of torque. Being on the high end of the OM617 engine series, and since it has a turbo, it's pretty quick and has decent power.

I'm not sure how it compares to a 4.0L in a Ranger. My Ranger had a 2.9L with an automatic transmission. From what I remember, the power between the two is comparable, but I'm sure a 4.0L is noticeably quicker and more powerful, especially with a manual transmission.

 

[ronclark]

Power specs can be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_OM617

My car is an '84 MB 300SD, so it has an OM617.951 with 125 horsepower and 180 ft-lbs of torque. Being on the high end of the OM617 engine series, and since it has a turbo, it's pretty quick and has decent power.

I'm not sure how it compares to a 4.0L in a Ranger. My Ranger had a 2.9L with an automatic transmission. From what I remember, the power between the two is comparable, but I'm sure a 4.0L is noticeably quicker and more powerful, especially with a manual transmission.

Sounds like the 4.0 might be quicker at 160 Hp@ 4200rpm and 220tq@ 2400rpm. the 2.9L 140HP@ 4600rpm and 170tq @ 2600rpm

So a tad small for a Explorer. i would love to do a diesel swap in to something like a Ranger,Explorer or even a Expedition

 

[1991fordranger1]

Finally was able to take it on a little test drive was nice to feel it move and work properly there is some tweeking still and a few little things to tidy up but should be on the road by next weekend

 

[1991fordranger1]

The om617 is 125 hp but if you eliminate all the emissions end of it and boost up the pump te 4.0l wouldn't seen much better.. You can get 400+ hp out of the Benz but I don't know how well the ranger would handle it

 

[simpler=better]

You can get your injectors rebalanced for aroudn $90 total (includes new crush washers aka heat shields) that will make a huge difference. #315 nozzles flow more fuel.

With stock injectors and injection pump (even if it's turned up) you can't supply enough fuel to need more than 14psi boost. If you run more than 14psi with a stock turbo/injectors/injection pump you will lose power and fuel economy. Since they were set at 9psi from the factory, 12psi with the ALDA tweaked will feel super fast

 

[ronclark]

The om617 is 125 hp but if you eliminate all the emissions end of it and boost up the pump te 4.0l wouldn't seen much better.. You can get 400+ hp out of the Benz but I don't know how well the ranger would handle it

wow 400hp how much would it reduce the reliability? because at 400hp it would imagine in a expedition it would not be that bad. I wounder how good the MPG would be.

 

[Exenos]

150hp is all the stock pump will handle. After a rebuild/refit for larger plungers (I think its plungers at least) I think the amount you can put out reliably is around the 200hp mark and maybe 280-300 flbs. Afaik 400 hp is not possible in a reliable/reasonable daily driver.

 

[1991fordranger1]

I'm not playing with any of that stuff I just want it too be reliable and decent mpgs I know I had it doing 60 km/h in second before needing to shift so it should do plenty fine on te highway... When I get it on the road and can do a few trips with it I can figure out my mpgs but I'm not running factory tires with it either which helps with the gearing of it all