TDI Ranger Build

[superds]

Yeah, I was looking for a low cost alternative fuel conversion for sooner than later implementation. A diesel conversion would take me much more time. Propane would have allowed me to use my existing low mileage, good running 2.8 engine, an engine which I also have a lifetime supply of (fresh, never run rebuilt engine I pickup up for cheap plus another donor vehicle's engine). And the 2.8 may not be a power monster, but it has enough power to get around town and for trail riding.

 

[greengeeker]

Ok, so basically underneath. How safe is that? I've read several propane conversions (I realize you're talking about a supplementary fuel) and looked at information from companies who sell conversions and they mostly steer people away from putting compressed fuel tanks under the vehicle.

It should be mentioned that we're talking about two completely different tank technologies: one that stores propane and one that stores CNG. Completely different pressures and tank requirements.

I've been keeping a close eye on the CNG conversions but as Bobby mentioned, compressor technology is not there yet to make this a viable solution. A reasonably-priced compressor for private use requires very long recharge times (~8 hrs) and fairly short rebuild frequency (~<year). Once this catches up a private refilling station becomes a reality and you can simply refill at home overnight.

 

[greengeeker]

i think the little tdi would accept that level of a mix, i am sure it would lower life from normal.....say if the tdi was expected to do 300k with good compression...may only get 225-250 with a great running engine.

many will say thats unacceptable, but i can live with it.

burning this stuff does increase maintenance for my idi, i have to clean injectors if i run heavy mix or 100 percent used oil for any period of time...say two tanks or so.

A couple comments/questions:
1) on regular D2/ULSD a tdi has no issues going out to 500k without compression loss. I have several customers in the +450k miles range with ZERO loss in compression (450psi). There are a few members over on tdiclub with +600k miles.
2) I'm not that well versed with the idi injectors on your PSD...what are the pop pressures for those injectors? I'm guessing they are single stage injectors?

 

[bobbywalter]

A couple comments/questions:
1) on regular D2/ULSD a tdi has no issues going out to 500k without compression loss. I have several customers in the +450k miles range with ZERO loss in compression (450psi). There are a few members over on tdiclub with +600k miles.
2) I'm not that well versed with the idi injectors on your PSD...what are the pop pressures for those injectors? I'm guessing they are single stage injectors?

500k? outstanding for an expectation!!!

i would think 250 300 would be pushing it at 30 percent though. only one way to find out


my psd is just shy of 900k, original almost everything. i have never been more impressed with an engine than those.

its unit injector, and in my e350. those injectors are "supposed" to be replaced about 200-250k intervals according to most...bout 1200 bux to do it cheap..it runs rough but does fine at cruise still....its getting hot so i think they are dripping now. so its getting retired.

the idi in my ranger is a 6.5, based on the detroit diesel built 6.2 that gm used. it is on the way to 450 k miles which for those is a miracle.......it weighs 720 pounds complete and is a v8, so they are light duty to say the least. for 70's technology and design they are very good engines to 200 hp.

those injectors are a single stage as i understand it, poppet style. i have a vw line and adapter to make my pop tester to crank them up, basically its the same type of injector as the idi vw from what i understand. so i was hoping you were an expert with them...

keep me from bungling around in the dark longer then necessary


i figure by the time you get this little guy proved out, i will have some solid data for ya and let you use some stuff if you want to experiment.

i need to drive yours to see if its something i want to do...

so hurry tha fawg up

 

[greengeeker]

i need to drive yours to see if its something i want to do...

So hurry tha fawg up

 

[joeyb2]

Where I am, there are normally quite a few Jettas for less than $1000, but they are around 450000km (300000 miles) and either "currently not running" or "ran last time I used it 2 years ago". What would be the recommended procedure to get one ready for use, or are they to far gone?

Also would it be possible to make an adapter to one of these? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/760014m-27--ford-range-torque-spliter-overdrive-27-with-a-4848-retainer-index/

 

[greengeeker]

Where I am, there are normally quite a few Jettas for less than $1000, but they are around 450000km (300000 miles) and either "currently not running" or "ran last time I used it 2 years ago". What would be the recommended procedure to get one ready for use, or are they to far gone?

That's a loaded question. I depends hugely on how much maintenance the previous owner had skipped. I will tell you this: A tdi that has had a timing belt go costs between $1200 and $1500 in parts to fix. A good used injection pump can be had for ~$400 and so can a good used turbo.

 

[bobbywalter]

i wish it was easy to put a gear drive on them...

turbos and pumps being reasonable are a plus though.

 

[greengeeker]

Wiring, Part 3

I made some progress on the wiring last night. I extracted the glow plug relay, fan control module and the coolant glow plug relay from the body part of the harness that I'm not going to use. I'll reintroduce these into the harness once I've nailed down a location for them. Well the fan control module location is understood but I haven't really figured out where to put the glow plug relay. I'm looking at installing into coolant glow plug relay housing but still have to figure out a good location in the engine bay for it. I have a spot up by the heater box that will work but it is as far away from the battery top fuses as possible so I'm not really crazy about that (would mean a REALLY long power wire and the glow plugs wires criss crossing the engine bay....no bueno).



Some pictures.



For those unfamiliar with the vw harness, this is the portion of the harness that goes from the ECU to the body (notice the colored plugs) that has the bigger of the two ecu plugs. Under the harness is the full wiring diagram with my cheat sheet for all the pins between the ecu and the body.

A close up of the colored plugs shows the labels that match the appropriate wires on the Ranger side.

Here is a test setup that I used to verify that I can run without the J317 (109 Relay). Simple connections: ground; 12v to the appropriate locations ro/li, sw/li; and then the glow plug light and CEL to verify the ECU is powered up. Again, here are the two ECU plugs. The large one on the left is where the majority of the wiring takes place as it interfaces with 90% of the body connections. The small plug on the right goes straight to the engine and sensors - it does have a few wires (4) that go to the body via the black plug.

To verify that the engine would start (I didn't crank it over at this time since I wasn't powering up certain circuits for this test) I hooked up my test light to the N109 (fuel shutoff solenoid) to indicate the engine was ready to start.

Don't worry if this sort of stuff is intimidating. As mentioned earlier I'm writing up a wire by wire how-to starting with critical circuits and working out towards the optional wiring (cruise, fan control module, etc).

 

[greengeeker]

Wiring, Part 3

The OBD2 port was stupid simple to wire up. You only need 3 wires to communicate with the ecu: 12v, ground, and the K-line. Here is the pin arrangement for the vw OBD2 port.

Below is the Ford arrangement. The Ranger has 3 wires going from the ECM to the OBD2 port...just pick one, connect it to the K-line wire and then move that wire to the #7 location as shown in the diagram above. The 12v and ground for the Ranger port are in the same locations as the vw so you just get to reuse those.

 

[joecool85]

The OBD2 port was stupid simple to wire up. You only need 3 wires to communicate with the ecu: 12v, ground, and the K-line. Here is the pin arrangement for the vw OBD2 port.

Then why do the OBD2 ports have 16 pins?? Seems they could have made a much smaller/cheaper hook-up.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Probably expandability for the future.

 

[john weeda]

Don't worry if this sort of stuff is intimidating. As mentioned earlier I'm writing up a wire by wire how-to starting with critical circuits and working out towards the optional wiring (cruise, fan control module, etc).[/QUOTE]

 

[john weeda]

Don't worry if this sort of stuff is intimidating. As mentioned earlier I'm writing up a wire by wire how-to starting with critical circuits and working out towards the optional wiring (cruise, fan control module, etc).[/QUOTE]


Cant wait till you have this done! would love to see your wier by wier how to once its done!

 

[greengeeker]

Then why do the OBD2 ports have 16 pins?? Seems they could have made a much smaller/cheaper hook-up.

Probably expandability for the future.

I think it is because it is a multiuse plug. You only need three wires to communicate with the ecu. I'm sure the other wires are going to other systems in the truck.