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2.3 intake manifold and carb options?


bigpanda

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The OMC intake manifold has the PCV hook up right on the manifold and the Brake booster I hooked into my carb as well as the vacuum advance. No need for any other vacuum ports.

Heres a link to my thread where you can see it.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124050

Also Mark that manifold is duracoated blue, it's not rusted that picture is just jacked up.
 


DrewNukesEm

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The OMC intake manifold has the PCV hook up right on the manifold and the Brake booster I hooked into my carb as well as the vacuum advance. No need for any other vacuum ports.

Heres a link to my thread where you can see it.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124050

Also Mark that manifold is duracoated blue, it's not rusted that picture is just jacked up.
Sweet, thank you bigpanda. If possible could you take a picture of the port where you hooked your PCV?

I’m still waiting on my manifold in the mail. I bought my OMC manifold from the same guy you did on Ebay, and unfortunately I think the one I got isn’t in as good of condition…(hince the shitty pics). I’m going to see what I can do to clean it up when I get it but I think Mark may be right, and it may be covered in rust, but who knows? I would love if you are right and the pictures are just shitty, or I am able to get the blue duracoat to come back out in it…

We'll see.:icon_confused:
 

itlives

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Do either of you guys have a link/ebay name to the guy you got your manifold from?
I still need a 2-barrel manifold.
 

upnsmoke

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I sand blasted my manifold and just left it bare aluminum. Still looks pretty good to me a half year or so later. I have never had much luck painting aluminum in the past, and don't have any experience with coatings other than anodizing, which I have heard does not work well on cast.
On another note, this may be of interest to those of you deciding where to put vacuum lines. I found that when my vacuum advance was connected near the plenum, I got a little gasoline in the line that found its way to the distributor. I did not like the idea of gasoline being present near secondary ignition components, and have since connected the vacuum line to the carb.
 

DrewNukesEm

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Do either of you guys have a link/ebay name to the guy you got your manifold from?
I still need a 2-barrel manifold.
Yeah, his Ebay name is lorolytle. I’m not sure he has any on there right now, but it looks like he sells lots of OMC marine stuff so he may have access to another. I’ll keep my eye out for ya in the meantime. Maybe John Smith could hook you up with one from his stash? :D

Here is a link to his Ebay store.

http://stores.ebay.com/4D-Monster-Parts?_trksid=p4340.l2563

I sand blasted my manifold and just left it bare aluminum. Still looks pretty good to me a half year or so later. I have never had much luck painting aluminum in the past, and don't have any experience with coatings other than anodizing, which I have heard does not work well on cast.
On another note, this may be of interest to those of you deciding where to put vacuum lines. I found that when my vacuum advance was connected near the plenum, I got a little gasoline in the line that found its way to the distributor. I did not like the idea of gasoline being present near secondary ignition components, and have since connected the vacuum line to the carb.
Yeah the OMC is cast, but looking closer at the pictures I can see there is some color underneath the rust. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed that I can shine up the “duracoat” on there, and make it look decent.:dunno: If I did end up deciding to paint it, I would go with some high temp stuff, possibly Rustoleum high temp BBQ paint, or even VHT high temp that you bake to cure.

Thank you for the suggestion on the vacuum line for the dizzy. That is a good call.:icon_thumby:
 

Mark_88

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On another note, this may be of interest to those of you deciding where to put vacuum lines. I found that when my vacuum advance was connected near the plenum, I got a little gasoline in the line that found its way to the distributor. I did not like the idea of gasoline being present near secondary ignition components, and have since connected the vacuum line to the carb.
This could be a problem...I put mine on the tree with the brake booster...it is above the fuel feed and, since it is drawing in to the head it should avoid any fuel fed into the stator or the brake...

I've had mine on the tree for about ten years and haven't had an explosion yet...but that doesn't mean it can't happen...tried it on my carb line but wasn't happy with it there...maybe I just had it on the wrong line...:dunno:
 

upnsmoke

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Mine seems to do okay hooked to the carb. I think even if there is no chance of a significant explosion, which there may be, the gasoline may damage the vacuum advance diaphragm over time. Mark, I think hooking to the tree on top of the manifold should work out fine. It seems that there is an attachment for a vacuum line at the lowest point in the plenum and I used it :annoyed:. Oh well, all's well with it now.
 

Mark_88

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The original 2.0 intake had a tree on the bottom of the intake that was the original connect point for the stock carb...I moved it up to the top tree from some advice I received on here years ago and it made a slight improvement...

I will check those vac lines on the carb again to see if I can use one of those again...pretty sure I only have two and the EGR has to go on one of them apparently...

The oil burning seems to have increased a bit over the last few days...may need to make a trip to the yard to find a head sooner than later...
 

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just to respond..

Damn man, that’s awesome that you have acquired such a plethora of good parts, as upnsmoke said – so many choices! Are you building your B2 for off-road, or as a daily driver? Whatever you end up deciding, I’m interested to see! Sounds like it's going to be sweet.
I originally bought a B2 2 replace an 08' JK jeep. A b2 offers more headroom, and actual cargo room. I also wanted to put a 2.3L Ford into a DD grocery getter that COULD venture wherever 2WD's COULDN'T if necessary for whatever reason. I HAVE accumulated a lot of 2.3L stuff, and have kept a few things that are carb related since this is my interest. I like the simplicity of all of it..and have converted my current '84 DD into NO POWER ANYTHING, and it does great..since the current 2.8L is running well with a little help, I haven't yet decided to drop this built 2.3L into it yet..(besides I need a "late style" bearing retainer for a tk5 maybe I'll find one soon)..

MARK88...you might consider an option to mount a "catch can" on your firewall to replace that breather. I tapped the breather hole for an aeroquip line to an off-board catch can arrangement. There are diagrams for this online, and it is done on many engines for different reasons. Of course excessive blow-by does cause some pressure that has to be dealt with..

In my engines i don't use a PCV valve..more like the 50's designs, or race only designs..so breathing is taken car of with other strategies..this of course is NOT recommended for normal daily use..

again great discussion..this is a great engine...for some real world reading ...another site is

http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=2;hardset=0;start_point=0;DaysPrune=0

a little searching here will find you a plethera of info albeit more dealing with EFI applications but the basics of building this engine to stay alive is there...

..thick oil can cause some interesting issues..especially if the pins shears on the DIZ drive gear...or the drive gear shreds..but at least the engine will quit running...
 
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DrewNukesEm

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Mine seems to do okay hooked to the carb. I think even if there is no chance of a significant explosion, which there may be, the gasoline may damage the vacuum advance diaphragm over time.
I agree, fuel isn't good for vacuum diaphragms, and will cause premature failure... Not too sure if it would cause an explosion though? :icon_confused:

Regardless, I wouldn't want to find out the hard way...:no2:

I originally bought a B2 2 replace an 08' JK jeep. A b2 offers more headroom, and actual cargo room. I also wanted to put a 2.3L Ford into a DD grocery getter that COULD venture wherever 2WD's COULDN'T if necessary for whatever reason. I HAVE accumulated a lot of 2.3L stuff, and have kept a few things that are carb related since this is my interest. I like the simplicity of all of it..and have converted my current '84 DD into NO POWER ANYTHING, and it does great..since the current 2.8L is running well with a little help, I haven't yet decided to drop this built 2.3L into it yet..(besides I need a "late style" bearing retainer for a tk5 maybe I'll find one soon)..

again great discussion..this is a great engine...for some real world reading ...another site is

http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=2;hardset=0;start_point=0;DaysPrune=0

a little searching here will find you a plethera of info albeit more dealing with EFI applications but the basics of building this engine to stay alive is there...
John, I feel the same exact way about having no power anything (except PS), less to go wrong! That's how I have always felt, especially with 4x4's.

Can't wait to see your 2.3L, it sounds like it'll be awesome.

:icon_idea: Hey by the way, do you have any extra intake manifolds laying around you would be willing to sell? I think itlives is having a hard time finding one...

Thank you for the link as well, I can't seem to get enough research lately! :icon_thumby:
 

DrewNukesEm

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I got my intake manifold delivered today. It's not as bad as it looks in the pictures, but I'm still going to try and clean it up some tomorrow.

We’ll see how it turns out…
 

Mark_88

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Cool...still looking for a head for mine...but also trying to work with what I've got so that it lasts as long as I can push it...

Post pics if you can...hopefully it will be as smooth as mine went...pretty sure I had pics of my P&P but they got lost in the crash of 2005...along with my frame-off collection...
 

4b316

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The OMC intakes clean up nice with a good glass beading then take some high temp clear and spray it and keeps it looking nice.Another word of caution with the OMC intakes,they are like the Offy,s and made for higher rpm,s(boats don't need a take off).They are better but still design to work in higher rpm,s.Our race truck weighs 2675 right now with me in it and 250 lbs of lead weight on the left frame rail to keep it at the 58% left side weight.Just the box sides,no bottom.Cab is stripped out as are the inside of the doors.Front fenders are by themselves with no inners or front rad support.(made our own along with tube bumpers and a alumium I beam bumper in the back.Aluminum seat,5 point belts,6 point cage,7.5 with 4.56 gears.Current engine is 98 2.5,40 over,head cut 65.Stock roller cam and valve(per rules)Stock EFI(per rules)and our own cold air intake,opening where the right headlight was.Running a plug in chip that was calibrated by Rubber Duck limited with no rev limiter and advanced timing from 4-6500 rpm,s.Right now ,probably a consistent top 5 truck with a win once in awhile.Some pretty fast Toyotas and Mazdas and some S10,s when the wind is right
 

DrewNukesEm

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Cool...still looking for a head for mine...but also trying to work with what I've got so that it lasts as long as I can push it...

Post pics if you can...hopefully it will be as smooth as mine went...pretty sure I had pics of my P&P but they got lost in the crash of 2005...along with my frame-off collection...
Yeah, I will be picking up a new cylinder head as well…

The one I have now is a ranger oval port, and looks like it hasn’t ever been off, the valves look pretty nasty. I am looking for a D port head and installing a roller cam that will match up with my OMC intake manifold. (Or still looking for a late 70’s oval port intake manifold possibly…)

I’ll post pics of everything I do when I get to it, but I may just be cleaning and prepping for a couple more weeks till I can afford to buy the rest of the parts I need, but I’ll still take before and after shots of the cleaning.

The OMC intakes clean up nice with a good glass beading then take some high temp clear and spray it and keeps it looking nice.Another word of caution with the OMC intakes,they are like the Offy,s and made for higher rpm,s(boats don't need a take off).They are better but still design to work in higher rpm,s.Our race truck weighs 2675 right now with me in it and 250 lbs of lead weight on the left frame rail to keep it at the 58% left side weight.Just the box sides,no bottom.Cab is stripped out as are the inside of the doors.Front fenders are by themselves with no inners or front rad support.(made our own along with tube bumpers and a alumium I beam bumper in the back.Aluminum seat,5 point belts,6 point cage,7.5 with 4.56 gears.Current engine is 98 2.5,40 over,head cut 65.Stock roller cam and valve(per rules)Stock EFI(per rules)and our own cold air intake,opening where the right headlight was.Running a plug in chip that was calibrated by Rubber Duck limited with no rev limiter and advanced timing from 4-6500 rpm,s.Right now ,probably a consistent top 5 truck with a win once in awhile.Some pretty fast Toyotas and Mazdas and some S10,s when the wind is right
Thank you for the suggestion, I will have to try and get a hold of my friend with a blaster, or maybe just take it down the street to this local paint shop. I think they may do it for cheap.

I really did think about what you said with the OMC’s and Offy’s being made for higher RPM. Being that I’m building my truck for off-road use, I know that the smaller head ports, and round smaller intake manifold would give better low end and throttle response, as you stated. However, I’ve had a lot of trouble trying to find oval port style manifolds, they seem to be quite picked over and hard to find (at least around here and on the internet…) If I could find a desirable oval style manifold that I could adapt a 2100 to, I would really consider going that direction, as I know it would be beneficial on the trails.

I still haven’t bought a new head that I’m planning on, and I got the OMC for cheap and I know I could sell it if I needed to. (I’m keeping you in mind, itlives!)

If I don’t find an oval style manifold or head, I think the OMC manifold with a fresh head, and whatnot would still be better than the stock setup.
Ideally I’d like to find a late 70's pinto aluminum oval intake manifold that I can put the 2100 on, and then the oval port head like John Smith was talking about with the large valves.

John Smith – Would you be willing to sell me one of your oval style intake manifolds, and possibly a head to match it?
 

itlives

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I'm thinking of the same information abut the intakes being more for higher RPM's. I really need an original 2-barrell intake for a square port 2.3L.
I don't rev my engines any farther than I have to to keep them from lugging.
 

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