where is orifice tube

[fastpakr]

If you're putting R134 into your compressor, you CANNOT use PAG100. You'll need to use Ester oil for the conversion.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Thanks for the answers. I'm using the stock compressor. I intent to take it off and drain it and put some oil back in. I bought some Pag100 with die. I'll measure how much drains out and replace that amount or 3 ozs.

Do you know, or has your system been swapped over to 134A since 1990?

Or, was your initial post on this about doing the 134 changeover?

If your system was running on R12, you would have to remove the old oil and flush the residue, before you can use 134A refrigerant and PAG or PE
For more insight http://acprocold.com/uncategorized/pagoil/

 

[croatankid]

Thanks Denise for the information. From the beginning I am updating the system on my 1990 ford ranger. I don't know if it had been upgraded before or not. Since owning the truck I have never seen it work. Actually I don't recall even trying it. My dad owned it before me and he wouldn't spend a penny to fix it if his life depended on it. He was from the depression era. Anyway, I took the compressor off to drain it. I found not one drop of oil in it. I replaced all the hoses, accumulator, and orifice. I flushed the condenser and evaporator. Now I wonder about the compressor failed. It turns ok. Maybe I should get a new compressor. What do you think?

 

[Denisefwd93]

Usually when it's been changed over to 134a they put a new service ports on the old service ports. New hoses only come for 134a so I think you're covered there if you did get new hoses.

With the compressor on or off the truck spin it by hand and put your fingers over the discharge and intake ports where the hose block connects. if it's good, you'll feel a distinctive push and pull on your fingertips. If it passed that test, look up the oil you need, put it in the compressor, you may have to look up directions for that, I'm not really that familiar with automotive compressors. If you get some oil in it rotate it by hand and maybe if you can with a SLOW cordless drill and a socket to get the oil all over the inside parts of the compressor. Dump it out check it for dirt, metal filings, or other kinds of residue, if it comes out clean great! Re fill with the specified amount of oil, install or reassemble the whole system be sure to use new O-rings on the back of the compressor, double check all your connections make sure you put the orifice in the right way, put a holding charge of 134 in it check for obvious leaks,. If it holds evacuate with vacuum pump for a couple of hours the longer the better. Note, don't be surprised if the large hose from the evaporator collapses when you have a vacuum on it, that is okay,. I'm not exactly sure how much refrigerant these systems take but I think it's one and a half or two and a half cans. Learning how to use gauges, I'll let you learn that there's lots of YouTube help out there. Good luck!

 

[croatankid]

Thanks for all the good information. I going out now to check out the compressor. I'll be back.

 

[fastpakr]

Quick clarification here. An orifice is an opening. The orifice tube is a tube that goes into an opening.

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[croatankid]

There was no new service ports when I first started this mess. I tested the compressor as you suggested and got nothing, even when spinning slowly with a driver and then when spinning it faster I got nothing. I put my mouth on each port to get the best sensation and still nothing. I just ordered a new compressor.

 

[Curious Hound]

Quick clarification here. An orifice is an opening. The orifice tube is a tube that goes into an opening.

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The orifice tube does reside inside a tube. But, it actually blocks that tube except for a very precisely designed orifice in it. That orifice helps the refrigerant change states from a high pressure liquid to a low pressure gas. As this happens, energy is required. This energy comes from the air in the duct surrounding the evaporator coil. It is absorbed (transferred) through the fins and tube walls into the refrigerant inside the evaporator. Then the air leaving the evaporator is cold because it gave up it's heat to evaporate the refrigerant. After this, the hot, low pressure refrigerant gas goes to the condenser coil where it gives up it's heat energy to the outside air and condenses back into a low pressure liquid that the compressor can pump back around the loop.

Did I get that right, Denise?

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[fastpakr]

That's fair. My real point was that an orifice isn't really an object. It's a hole in something.

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[4x4junkie]

For a new compressor (FS-6 or FS-10) you will need PAG-46 oil.

Additionally, if there was any amount of debris and/or sludge inside the fitting when you took the discharge manifold off the old compressor (or any more than just a thin layer of dirt on the orifice tube screen), you should also replace the condenser as well. This because it's impossible to completely flush the debris from a failed compressor out of the condenser due to how the passages are constructed (debris in the system can cause the new compressor to fail as well). The evap however is a lot easier to flush clean.

 

[Denisefwd93]

You all have a lot more Refrigeration knowledge than you think you do!

The engineering and operating characteristics of auto air conditioning are very representative of refrigeration.
Automotive AC is actually Refrigeration, it's just running at much higher temperatures.

it can be referred to as high temp Refrigeration.

Wine and beverage storage, florists, use medium temp Refrigeration,

refrigerators freezers use medium to low temp Refrigeration,

to go even colder, say -25 to-150 using Cascade /pump down systems, is a very unique field of refrigeration that I've really not dabbled in although, I have some knowledge of it.

If you look closely at the picture above, you will see a typical 134a system that is pretty typical of air conditioning or even air conditioning in a car or truck. The Cascade starts by basically using another system to arrive at much much lower temperatures.

as you can guess, there is crossover between air conditioning Refrigeration high low and medium depending on settings and applications

Heat pumps are reverse cycle refrigeration. You can add to this, geothermal, solar assisted, water source, air-to-water, water-to-air mediums they're all part of the mechanical refrigeration family.

Automotive air conditioning people really underestimate themselves! because they actually have the basic knowledge to work on all the above!

Over the years I've known more than a few walking talking orifices. Many were on the other side of the counter at the refrigeration supply houses.

Refrigerant metering devices come in many types sizes and applications this video shows many that are not seen in automotive ac. https://youtu.be/mnKEFJyWJB4

 

[Denisefwd93]

This may be a silly question, but you were turning the compressor not the clutch pulley?

There was no new service ports when I first started this mess. I tested the compressor as you suggested and got nothing, even when spinning slowly with a driver and then when spinning it faster I got nothing. I put my mouth on each port to get the best sensation and still nothing. I just ordered a new compressor.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

For a new compressor (FS-6 or FS-10) you will need PAG-46 oil.

Additionally, if there was any amount of debris and/or sludge inside the fitting when you took the discharge manifold off the old compressor (or any more than just a thin layer of dirt on the orifice tube screen), you should also replace the condenser as well. This because it's impossible to completely flush the debris from a failed compressor out of the condenser due to how the passages are constructed (debris in the system can cause the new compressor to fail as well). The evap however is a lot easier to flush clean.

Most compressors will require a new drier for warranty. Ag stuff has an expansion valve and they require a new one of those too, not sure how an orfice tube relates for automotive for warranty.

 

[croatankid]

Yes, I was turning the compressor and not just the pully. I'll use what ever oil the compressor calls for. I'll take my chances and not change the condenser though I did flush it out.

 

[Craig0320]

The older condensers in vehicles had lager holes to be able to flush easier. Our trucks along with newer vehicles are pretty much impossible to flush thoroughly because they have such tight passage ways. Usual you just replace when a compressor detonates.