What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[superj]

Truck has been napping under the carport lately since Cristina and both boys now have wranglers. We are making sure jarrod's wrangler is 100% good to go and Jason is doing the same on his in Nebraska. He traded his 26 Lariat away because the payment was killing him. He did say he regretted trading the 24 stx up to the 26 Lariat but that is done and he is in a jeep now

 

[Rick W]

Not too sure of what they look like. I found a couple pics. AI says diameter of the face is 6.25 to 6.375". The clip in part would likely be up to 1/2" smaller.
View attachment 149189View attachment 149190

@Rick W

A few thoughts & pics from my inventory…

First, 5x4.5 bolt pattern? Or 5x5? The dish/bowl caps came in two different sizes, 6.25OD and 7.0OD. The 5 x 5 is for older stuff, and yours should be 5 x 4.5, but I wanted to confirm.

Here are the caps

The Lincoln on the left is a 6.25, and the Lincoln on the right is a 7.0. The Ford is a 7.0. The emblems on the caps are held on by four or five screws from the inside.

Those bowls/dish caps were primarily for turban wheels, some bullet hole wheels, and other “soup dish” wheels. There are three studs sticking up that are part of the wheel that hold them in place.

Those wheels take any lug nut that will hold the wheel down.

I know of two style Ranger caps that went on the bullet hole style wheels, 14 or 15.

They take the flange style lug nut like this

I literally have 25 or 30 of those wheels on the trucks or trailers I have, and a dozen more for what I’m planning to build. That style are bad about popping off when you hit a bump or a railroad track. When I use them, I always put a little tiny dab of E 6000/goop on the three catch points. It’s just enough to keep them from popping off.

Your wheels are the fake wire/lace wheels. They take the flatter lace cap that has a pop on center (I think).

The silver part of the cap holds on the wheel with three screws, and the black part pops on (I think). These wheels are the ones I am least familiar with. I’ve never messed with that style of wheel, but I have actually pulled the center caps for the emblems. The Ford, mercury, and Lincoln wheels and caps are all the same, and the center part of the cap with the logo is interchangeable with a few screws.

And an afterthought, you could find that kind of thing in pretty good shape down here. If you want to sign up for the notifications for “Pull-A-Part” here in Atlanta, north location, east location and south location for the Crown Vic, the mercury, and the town car, and let me know if you find one, and I’ll go check it out.

Hope it helps

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

This is what I'm in for (again) tomorrow.

Sucks, but not my first rodeo.

I have no idea how it got around the face shield and glasses. I hit a spot when descaling the shock towers that sort of... 'sploded.







I really hate the coilover mod.

Update: doc got most of it out. Apparently I tore part of the lens on this one. I can see fine, just a red area and have to go back in on Monday to see if they can get the remaining flecks or if it's just a stain.

Also bought a pair of goggles for next time. May just get a blasting hood and be done with it.

Also all parts finally refinished, frame is painted, and truck is ready for reassembly.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Update: doc got most of it out. Apparently I tore part of the lens on this one. I can see fine, just a red area and have to go back in on Monday to see if they can get the remaining flecks or if it's just a stain.

Also bought a pair of goggles for next time. May just get a blasting hood and be done with it.

Also all parts finally refinished, frame is painted, and truck is ready for reassembly.

Glad it turned out ok. Only problem I have with goggles is my glasses fog up. Maybe if there was a small fan inside...

 

[Rick W]

Riddle me this on my 87 a/c.

I went to the pull-a-part solo today to pick up the rest of the AC system for the 87 2.9 Missing Linc. I got everything forward of the firewall, including all the wiring.

Very little is left under my hood, but I have this kind of evaporator coil:

Which may or may not be this one from rock auto

The in and out tubes on my existing coil are not centered, they’re together at the top of the air box.

The 88 in the scrapyard had this set up:

When I went, I knew they didn’t match, but I had looked around on the Internet and couldn’t find out why they were different. When I looked at Rockauto, just before I sent this, is when I realized the one in my truck is apparently dealer installed, and the bigger one with the long and short pipes on the top and the bottom is apparently what came from the factory.

Q1: Please correct me if I’m wrong in this thinking. I’m assuming I can use the compressor, all the hoses, the dryer (I’ll get a new one after I pressure test everything), etc. I don’t know if the new evaporator coil will fit into the air box I have, but it also looks like a pretty simple modification to just extend the air box into the engine compartment a little bit further.

It’s also obvious to me now, that the little bit of remaining wiring was hand-done, and not factory. So…

Q2: if I connect the wires correctly from the firewall forward, won’t the whole thing work from the existing control in the dashboard? That control looks exactly like all the truck trucks with the factory air.

I’m hoping I don’t have to replace the whole blower/air box assembly, especially since I cut the one up that I pulled all this stuff from, but there are always a few of them around down here.

What landmines am I about to step on?

Btw, I also got a pair of the pop out windows for the 97 Road Ranger for $35 for the pair, some trim pieces & a seatbelt for @Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto ’s 86, a cottage cheese cup full of nuts, bolts and screws, and an extra starter solenoid. Probably some other little stuff I don’t remember.

EDIT: more info.

The front of the existing air box in the 87 is like a big cap about the size of a carton of cigarettes, and it comes off with three screws down either side, pulls forward from the main part of the box. The note on the rockauto site said “dealer installed.” That has to be right, because I can’t believe any of the Ford engineers would’ve ever designed something that practical and easy to work on!

Apparently, if I pull those six screws, the end of the box will come off, and just from my tape measure, the replacement coil will just slide right in there. I just have to re-drill the lower hole for the pipe from the new coil.

Q3: there’s a relay with a liquid filled probe, looks like an old-fashioned thermostat/temperature probe to me, that sits on top of the air box, and the probe disappears down into the air box on the cold air downstream side. I’m thinking that it is to turn off the compressor if there’s “no cold,” and it’s an early version of the low pressure switch we have now, which the 88 in the scrapyard had as part of the drier assembly. Yes/no? Connect those wires to the pressure switch?