V8 engine mounts any cheap ideas helpfull

[v-8power]

Depends on how tall your air cleaner is, it should'nt be a problem at all.

 

[83bagged]

Depends on how tall your air cleaner is, it should'nt be a problem at all.

well i want to run a low rise intake, smallest air cleaner i can find, and also moutn the motor fairly low, not low enough to drag the ground, (im bagged), but mabe like an inch off the ground? or 2".... its not a daily, more like a toy/show thing

but what mounts should i try?

 

[v-8power]

If you use the convertible mounts you should have plenty of room.

 

[superdave1984]

I dont know what compeled me to save this but i did.... this is exact quote from the old forums and i think its what your asking about....

"Go to your local autoparts store and get a pair of 71 truck motor mounts,
they are no mod direct bolt on bolt in mounts for the 5.0L ranger, are
about 12 bucks a piece, and are lifetime mounts at autozone...( AutoZone
part number 2829 )"

I assume by 71 Truck it means a 71 150 with a 5.0L... for the dummy behind the counter who needs to know every bit of info about the vehicle you need parts for.

This is false. They are NOT a no-mod fit. And they sit the engine too low in my 2wd 87 Ranger. They would need to be moved back several inches to work. I suppose with adapter plates of some kind. So I am going with the 87 GT Convertible mounts after buying the truck mounts and learning the hard way. Here's a write up about the vert mounts.

87-93 Convertible & 94-95 GT Mustang motor mounts for your 83-97 Ranger

These mounts are popular because they allow you to position the motor pretty much as far back as possible (heads less than an inch from firewall) and low down as well. They're simple to install, (2 slotted holes, about 5/8" x 1-1/2"). They are inexpensive, roughly $30-40 for the pair.

Basic install procedure:

-Bolt mounts to block. (Some members have found that the left mount needs to go on the right side and vice-versa, I found that with my 95 GT mounts this wasn't the case.)
-Lower engine into engine bay, either with tranny attached, or with
tranny waiting under truck, resting on crossmembers.
-Bolt tranny to engine if not already done. (you may have to clearance your firewall/tranny tunnel seam. I was able to position my motor low enough that the AOD would have cleared it)
-Lower engine as far as possible, so that mount studs are resting on rossmember.
-Crawl under truck, measure from framerail to framerail and center tailshaft of tranny. It doesn't matter how you do it really, just secure it so it can't move side to side.
-Make sure engine is located in the center of the engine bay, measure between framerails...also check for level.
-Check to see if you can put it further back. Ideal position would be with heads about 1/2" or so from firewall, depending on whether or not you have to use the air injection. Also note that the firewall is not totally straight, so worry more about getting your motor in square than both heads being the same distance from the firewall.
-Check tailshaft to see that it's sitting at the right height. It HAS to be at the same height that it'll be at when bolted to your crossmember, or your head/firewall clearance will be off. Use a jack to keep it supported temporarily if need be.
-Mark where studs are hitting crossmember.
-Remove engine, you can leave tranny in if you want to.
-Drill holes where studs were hitting crossmember. Drill another set of holes about 1-1/2 - 1-3/4" further down on the crossmember.
-Cut out the material between the holes, leaving you with a slot.
-Drop motor back in, and attach to tranny, mounts should drop right into slots.
-That's it.

Yes, I just bumped a very old thread. But if it saves somebody else the $&^*^$# that I went through it was worth it.

 

[viperar15]

i'm actually in the middle of this... so this really helps out ty

 

[baddad457]

Most of that is correct 'cept the part about using the frame rails as a reference point. The frame rails are not centered under the body, and they're hardly square enough to use as references. You're better off centering the motor between the fenders and leveling it using a carpenter's level on the carb pad or top of the lower EFI intake. (truck also needs to be as level as possible for this) And aiming the trans tail shaft at the pinion shaft in the rearend. It also helps to make a set of motor mount studs from 7/16"NC threaded rod (2" long each) secure the mounts with locknuts. Reason for this is it's easier to align the studs to the mount holes when lowering the motor in than trying to align the bolt holes, laying on your back, looking up and trying to get the bolts started into the block holes. Once I bolted the mounts down, they stayed permanently bolted to the frame (for ten years, thru 4 engine changes) It's also a bitch to access the passenger side mount bolts with the drivers side axle end in the way. That needs to have the pivot bolt removed and the axle end lowered to reach that area under the crossmember.

 

[superdave1984]

My guess is using the frame as a reference may give you better clearance for headers? Not sure as my mounts are still in the box. Hope to get back on this in a day or so.

 

[hoosier1104]

When I did my swap I used the motor and mounts out of a 96 Expo AWD 5.0. They bolted right up to the equipment that was already there and it slid right in with no clearance issues.

 

[Mac]

When I did my swap I used the motor and mounts out of a 96 Expo AWD 5.0. They bolted right up to the equipment that was already there and it slid right in with no clearance issues.

Everything worked great for you because of the torsion bar suspension, others even doing the same motor swap are not so lucky with the different frame construction.
Dave of the Nord