TTB Long Travel Question

[4x4junkie]

In my effort to further my understanding of the TTB, can you elaborate on something?

Why is cutting the beams next to the pivots a bad idea? It looks to me that doing would require a longer center axle, and you could wind up with a narrower wheel track. But, won't the center u-joint run a factory (almost zero degree) angle when the truck is level?

I am thinking you need a much longer slip joint, since the pivot points have changed and the axle travel will change. But, will the u-joints bind since the angle of axle travel has changed?

Thanks.

Bobby pretty much nailed it... Biggest of all, it also fails to provide the 1" - 1½" extra clearance under the differential that a C&T done at the balljoints provides.
Pretty much it's none of a C&T's benefits with all of it's drawbacks.

The little bit of angle on the u-joints is a far lesser evil than having the axle slip spline separate and/or try to plunge through your u-joint (busting out the dust cap in the process and opening up your slip-spline to the elements).

Are you planning on speed-running this thing? (sounds like maybe not if you're questioning whether you need reservoir shocks)
If not, I don't suggest messing around with a C&T. Stock beams provide better handling in routine driving and for trail riding/crawling (this because of less change in track width when the suspension cycles and less lateral jacking while you're on a steep off-camber hill or similar). Reinforcing the beams certainly can't hurt anything though (the spot right where the welds end on the backside of the passengerside beam is known to crack occasionally, boxing in the back of it should prevent any issue there. The rest of the beams are pretty sturdy for most any use short of jumping it. A brace across the face of the driverside beam can lessen the chance of a bent beam if you're rolling along and suddenly encounter a buried tree stump or something).

 

[Scott B.]

Bobby pretty much nailed it... Biggest of all, it also fails to provide the 1" - 1½" extra clearance under the differential that a C&T done at the balljoints provides.
Pretty much it's none of a C&T's benefits with all of it's drawbacks.

The little bit of angle on the u-joints is a far lesser evil than having the axle slip spline separate and/or try to plunge through your u-joint (busting out the dust cap in the process and opening up your slip-spline to the elements).

Are you planning on speed-running this thing? (sounds like maybe not if you're questioning whether you need reservoir shocks)
If not, I don't suggest messing around with a C&T. Stock beams provide better handling in routine driving and for trail riding/crawling (this because of less change in track width when the suspension cycles and less lateral jacking while you're on a steep off-camber hill or similar). Reinforcing the beams certainly can't hurt anything though (the spot right where the welds end on the backside of the passengerside beam is known to crack occasionally, boxing in the back of it should prevent any issue there. The rest of the beams are pretty sturdy for most any use short of jumping it. A brace across the face of the driverside beam can lessen the chance of a bent beam if you're rolling along and suddenly encounter a buried tree stump or something).

No speed running through the desert for this truck - it's just the engineer in me coming out, trying to understand all the nuances of the suspension. I am not going to C&T, just try to get the maximum amount of flex out of the suspension.

Thank you guys for your responses - they have been quite informative.

This project is some months off, but when I do it, I will post a build thread.

 

[Str8sixfan]

glad I could contribute some controversy to the thread...had no idea. I do remember long, long ago when I first saw that, I had my doubts about cutting and welding on those units, but it seemed to work. Oh well, now I know.