Long travel TTB suspension with EB coils

[PlumCrazy]

Im sorry, but even with the custom drop brackets and trussed front axle, that thing wont flex for shit. Garunteed.

1st, he's running OEM steering that binds at anything more than 12" droop. 2nd, the "fabrication" that went into those radius arms is halfassed at best. And 3rd, I believe we've already come to the conclusion that this has been done before, so excuse me if I tell you to **** off.

This is a writeup on how I (as in ME, not anyone else) did this modification, gaining as much flex as possible. I never stated it wasnt done before. I stated that it wasnt done with the bend in the radius arm to eliminate tire rubbing.

/RANT

CopyKats work is generally far from half assed. He was one of the few people back in the day that was willing yo work and experiment with TTB. He pulled some pretty impressive numbers and beat on it petty hard.

BTW those appear to be very old pics, I believe he made superrunner style linkage and added limit straps ( since that truck saw a lot of air time.

I think it is now a D44 TTB aswell, not just D44 outers.

-PlumCrazy

 

[brinker88]

Oh I know his work was/is a great improvement. BUT, I'm saying those radius arms look hacked. I know they work, and they work great. Im all about physical appearance of a vehicle though. If it looks hacked, it looks hacked.

 

[kryptonitecb]

Oh I know his work was/is a great improvement. BUT, I'm saying those radius arms look hacked. I know they work, and they work great. Im all about physical appearance of a vehicle though. If it looks hacked, it looks hacked.

If it works who cares?

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[-Nathan-]

Not trying to stir the pot here, but seeing as this escalated quickly, I figure Id pop my 2 bits in. Brinker, youve got a decent setup here, but this scares me:

That my friend is a bit hack. Im not trying to be mean or condescending, just trying to help and save you some trouble later. The spot above the drive shaft where you 'clearanced' the tube is a VERY weak point. That cross member does not in any way look sufficient to me. As well, you need to tie that back into your other radius arm mount, as you did on the passenger side. That is a high stress area in the frame, and tying the cross member between the mounts is crucial to keeping the stress distributed. Just some insight, take it as you wish. And as I said, just trying to help.

Nate

 

[brinker88]

Oh it definitely is "hacked". I'll give you that. I need to figure something else out. I was looking at that the other day.

Any insight as to a good design?

 

[-Nathan-]

If anything, drop your bend underneath the driveshaft, and straight up to the bracket (using a bushing) you already have made on the other radius arm. Also, use the entire diameter of the round tube; notching it like that significantly weakens the piece. You may lose a little ground clearance, but it will be stronger, tie things together, and protect your driveshaft more.

 

[brinker88]

Well, I guess I know what I'm doing next weekend.

Thanks for the tip dude.

 

[PlumCrazy]

If anything, drop your bend underneath the driveshaft, and straight up to the bracket (using a bushing) you already have made on the other radius arm. Also, use the entire diameter of the round tube; notching it like that significantly weakens the piece. You may lose a little ground clearance, but it will be stronger, tie things together, and protect your driveshaft more.

x2

 

[zack93ranger]

this is a sweet set up you have im subscribed i want to do this to my TTB one day

 

[brinker88]

If anything, drop your bend underneath the driveshaft, and straight up to the bracket (using a bushing) you already have made on the other radius arm. Also, use the entire diameter of the round tube; notching it like that significantly weakens the piece. You may lose a little ground clearance, but it will be stronger, tie things together, and protect your driveshaft more.

I was thinking here as well. I'm making skidplates for my transmission/t-case. What if I use 2x3 1/4" square stock for my skidplate base. I think it would really make my frame rigid and let me keep my "hacked" transmission mount.

Thoughts?

 

[-Nathan-]

My point was, putting it nicely, that your tranny mount sucks. You need to make a new one. Pretty sure I could bend that mount in half with my hands where the tube is notched. Do what you want, but Id redo it, as I suggested previously.

 

[brinker88]

Okay. I'll start designing a new one.

 

[brinker88]

Lost a little ground clearance and had to remove my skid plate. No big deal.

Driveshaft clearance.

 

[Scott B.]

That looks quite a bit stronger than your other one.

Also, should serve double-duty well acting as a skip plate.

 

[brinker88]

Thanks, and most definitely. I will be putting a skid on to protect the rest of the transfercase though. Stealing Plumcrazys idea and using a road sign lol