Long travel TTB suspension with EB coils

[AlaskanRider]

Thats great work. I know from messing with mine how many quirks ttb has when you make any significant change from stock. That is a really impressive amount of droop.

 

[jhammel85]

Fantastic work man. +1 for the library.

 

[brinker88]

Thanks bud.

No Jim yet?...

 

[88_Eddie]

send him a pm and a link

 

[Ryannn]

Can you expand on the eb coils and the bottom bucket..? Like more pictures and such?

 

[brinker88]

Um...sure. I took a big rig alignment collar and a piece of 1/4" plate and drilled a 3/4" hole through it. then welded a collar around the plate 3/4" tall. Then welded a piece of 1/4" angle (cut out of a 2" OD peice of square tubing ) for the coil retainer. <-- this lets the coil come "unseated" from the bucket yet still remains attatched to achieve more flex. It's a very simple design.

 

[4.0B2]

I'm in search of some EB coils now I think...

 

[brinker88]

Awsome!

 

[4.0B2]

yeah the XJ's were a little to soft, pretty much all the way deflated and makes this happen

 

[Will]

I would not look for EB coils on that B2. Just don't go out and buy random coils unless you know what you are getting into. I know this looks like a perfect solution, but it isn't that simple. I would not buy any coils unless I had the spring rate and open length on them, plus had weighed my truck and knew my front axle weight. I wrote all this up years ago--10 or more--and it's in the tech library. If you have his exact truck and he gives you the part numbers, then fine. Ford used different rate springs for every possible setup--different ones for the same truck with and without certain accessories even, so don't just buy what someone else has. I've been threatened with death by people with a V8 Ranger that bought my coils and didn't do the math I lay out in that old article.

This proposed article looks good on the surface, but like I said--what are the part numbers? What are the spring rates and heights of those EB coils? I don't like those radius arms, honestly, because they've been done a million times and they bend. Especially since the limited tire size of that axle means lots of ground contact.

I've never had your type of transmission crossmember so I assume what you did was needed. As to the steering, binding isn't an issue in the tierod ends if your suspension lift isn't over 4". My truck has a lot of travel, but a low lift, and that's no issue. The tierod joints are fine if they start in a fair position.

The beam window has to be ground out large enough for your head to fit through--and the axle yokes must also be ground out or the joints will bind and snap in real use. I have info about that in the tech library.

My truck is locked on both ends and has been beaten to death on 35" Hawgs without axle failure. The key is in the window and in clearancing those yokes.

I like that your truck is low. It's a good setup. I mainly want to caution people that your springs may not be suitable for them. Also, check those yokes. Those are posing pictures. When you are hammering on it the suspension flexes even deeper and the yokes are going to bind and snap.

 

[4.0B2]

I'm looking at coils and doing the math now with some info that Legoms gave me.. just look at the last post in my b2 build thread.

 

[brinker88]

Will, axle yokes, beam, AND axle shaft(shortened) ARE ground down for more clearance.

Coils are BC Bronco 3.5" coils that are 21.5" unloaded

And I never intended anybody to just "copy" my build. I did the research necessary for my specific truck to work like it does. I expect others to do the same. Im just showing everybody how built it.

As for the radius arms, I'd love to see a link(s) where someone built the kind of radius arms I have. I've never seen square arms WITH the bend in them WITH extra bracing and plating.

As for ground clearance, I still have MORE thant If I would have went with aftermarket radius arms.

 

[LameDuck]

Rectangular strut arms have been done before as well as early bronco coils. Seen here on copycat's BroncoII

 

[brinker88]

Im sorry, but even with the custom drop brackets and trussed front axle, that thing wont flex for shit. Garunteed.

1st, he's running OEM steering that binds at anything more than 12" droop. 2nd, the "fabrication" that went into those radius arms is halfassed at best. And 3rd, I believe we've already come to the conclusion that this has been done before, so excuse me if I tell you to **** off.

This is a writeup on how I (as in ME, not anyone else) did this modification, gaining as much flex as possible. I never stated it wasnt done before. I stated that it wasnt done with the bend in the radius arm to eliminate tire rubbing.

/RANT

 

[LameDuck]

hahaha Ok Bro!

You're the pioneer, of dirty hooker travel! Good job!