To all of you undertaking in a 302 swap

[Psychopete]

if you cant do it by hand i dont wanna do it
peacefull under there

+1.

Pete

 

[88mudder]

1/2" impact is my friend

 

[pwd72s]

liquid wrench and some heat have always worked well for myself. then again i live out west and rust isnt to much of an issue here

Liquid wrench...BAH! Try PB Blaster...the stuff is amazing.

 

[Mac]

I've just started using PB Blaster over Liquid Wrench or similar and like it. Most of the anti-seize products out there are good to 2000 deg F. Take something apart, use it. Yep, on a hot day if you wipe your face after using it and not being careful, you might end up looking like the Tin Man.
Dave

 

[Totalled]

That's because you live in the rusty side of the country. I've pulled 8.8's out of junkyard explorers with only a 1/2" ratchet and breaker bar. No lube, no heat, no snapped bolts.

 

[Jason]

Remember though, it is thought that using lubricants on bolts to be torqued to spec causes inaccurate readings.

 

[Mac]

Remember though, it is thought that using lubricants on bolts to be torqued to spec causes inaccurate readings.

It's actually the other way around. Torquing dry can leave you up to 20% low, no matter what your torque wrench says. ARP reccomends moly or 10/30 wt oil.
Dave

 

[wade]

It's actually the other way around. Torquing dry can leave you up to 20% low, no matter what your torque wrench says. ARP reccomends moly or 10/30 wt oil. Dave

I don't know about ARP, but what you're saying - works. There is some theoretical argument over wet/dry torque, but most of us aren't building space shuttles.

...load it up with antiseize before reassembly. Hit the threads on bolts, all bushing surfaces, ball joint bores, flat mating surfaces, everything. It will make taking it apart again 4 years down the road that much easier.

7-2nd has the right idea - for the right reason.
Clean it - Lube it (w/antiseize) - Proper tightening to torque spec. Major Point! - If it went together once, odds are it'll have to come apart again, sooner, or later! - without breaking the bolt or my balls.
I'm even fanatic enough to antiseize my lug nuts. If my wife and/or son ever have to change a flat tire on the side of the road (and I'm not there!), I want the reassurance that they can get the lug nuts off! They are antiseized and are NOT overtorqued by an air impact!

 

[Iron Ranger]

Here's another myth about Trucks! and Extreme 4X4, you don't need to go buy the most powerful, expensive welder to do the job. I proudly own a Handler 140 with Stargon gas hook-up.

When doing sheetmetal, exhaust, or anything under 1/8" thick material, this is the cat's meow. Anything OVER that, use the flux-cored wire, trust me, this can handle anything up to 5/16" material with proper joint preparation. I built a hitch receiver for my truck and this can pull a D-11 bulldozer if it wanted to.

The properties of flux core allow it to easily penetrate steel and give a very strong bead, just make sure you switch the polarity around when you change wires, and that you know the proper technique for welding flux core. It does take a certain finess to make it look good.

You can also stack the weld beads on top of each other when doing thicker steel projects. The more the better.

 

[wrifraff]

When I went to rebuild the motor in one of my trucks, I ended up breaking off all intake and timing cover bolts. That's what great about a SE Michigan vehicle. The only place in the state they use salt!

 

[gnardoom]

Here's another myth about Trucks! and Extreme 4X4, you don't need to go buy the most powerful, expensive welder to do the job. I proudly own a Handler 140 with Stargon gas hook-up.

When doing sheetmetal, exhaust, or anything under 1/8" thick material, this is the cat's meow. Anything OVER that, use the flux-cored wire, trust me, this can handle anything up to 5/16" material with proper joint preparation. I built a hitch receiver for my truck and this can pull a D-11 bulldozer if it wanted to.

The properties of flux core allow it to easily penetrate steel and give a very strong bead, just make sure you switch the polarity around when you change wires, and that you know the proper technique for welding flux core. It does take a certain finess to make it look good.

You can also stack the weld beads on top of each other when doing thicker steel projects. The more the better.

Is it gasless flux core? I always thought that stuff was sketchy

 

[wade]

Flux Core may spatter a little more than gas, but if you get your amperage and feed rates adjusted correctly, its acceptable. And it makes welding a little bit less expensive. If you only do occasional welding, its a good method. If you weld on a regular basis - professionally - you'll probably want the gas shield.

 

[Iron Ranger]

If you work in a closed environment with alot of welding to do, flux core is not your thing. It's very smokey and it does spatter a little bit(The sparks also fly quite far, so fire hazard is another issue). But gas solid wire feed doesn't penetrate deep enough for proper holding strength(Unless you are using a 230V or higher).

How fluxcore works is the current is reverse polarity in which the ground cable is positive and the wire gun is negative. So, the part heats up first for a good penetrating weld, but burns thinner metal into kingdom come. With solid wire, the wire gun is positive and the ground is negative, so the wire heats up first before it penetrates into the metal. Good for thinner metal, not so good for thicker stuff.

Here are some examples:
Here is what's called Spray Transfer Welding. This is done usually on a 480V welder. We have lots of these at my work and have decided to use this method for my hitch receiver. Solid wire, super penetration, no spatter, nice and smooth.

Here is my Handler 140 gasless flux-cored wire welds on the outside of the hitch. This is 3 weld passes to obtain a 1/4" weld with optimum strength and penetration. You won't get much fill on .030 wire, but if stacked, it fills just fine. I LOVE MY JOB!!!!(can you tell?)

 

[Iron Ranger]

Is it gasless flux core? I always thought that stuff was sketchy

Yes and no.
Some is in the welder's skill, but the brand of wire also makes a HUGH difference. If you spend some good $$$ on Hobart or Lincoln brand wire, it's guarenteed to run very smoothly, due to the quality control checkpoints on the various stages of the wire's development for consistent results.

Now if you go cheap, the wire will still work, but it won't work WELL. I'm a perfectionist when it comes to welding, so I've learned this the hard way. The wire may have spots in the wire where the flux isn't present and that leads to porosity(honey-combed weld appearence) due to lack of quality control. Porosity spots are really brittle and are the weak points in a weld.

It also depends on the thickness of the metal, if the polarity is connected correctly, how stable your outlet power is(town power with no lights on vs. country power with all the lights on), just a number of things.

I can see why you think it's sketchy, but if you take some time with some scrap metal for practice, you'll see it's actually quite nice.

 

[red85]

I live in the salt belt and removing bolts without heat is a royal pain. I see so many vehicles in a week that peaceful quiet time spent removing rusty fasteners is a luxury that I can't afford. Between the torch and my trusty IR 231G there are very few that give me trouble. When the 231 won't take it out, I pull out the 3/4" IR mother of all impact guns and then they ALWAYS come out. I'm in total agreement about reassembly with antiseize and a torque wrench. The best method of dealing with rusty fasteners once they're out (assuming you reuse them) is to use the wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean out the threads and then use a little antiseize when you put them back in.