Question About 4.0 Mods and Tuning.

[BlackBII]

No kit, you'd have to fabricate it all yourself

 

[TheMuffinOfEvil]

I'm reading over the sections for axles and gears but I dont really understand what I am reading. I'm not sure what gear ratio I would need to change to to get the rpms down a bit at higher speeds.

 

[BlackBII]

You want a gear ratio that is higher (numerically lower) than what you have now.

If you have 4.10's right now, you want to go Up (down numerically) to 3.73. This will lower your RPM's at any given speed.

 

[TheMuffinOfEvil]

Can a shop replace only the gears, or am I going to need new front and rear axles? I really appreciate all the help I have been receiving here and I am sorry I seem to be rather slow on the uptake and deciding what to do.

 

[BlackBII]

You can replace just the gears. Called the Ring and Pinion. Gears go for ~150$ and a shop will most likely charge 200-300$ to install them, per axle.

 

[Will]

More and more I am thinking of rebuilding the OHV and putting a low PSI turbo on it and calling it a day.

I love that "and calling it a day" thing. Like "Just swap in some Dana 60s and call it a day." Or "just swap in a manual trans and call it a day."

It's like saying "Just call Kimbo Slice's mom a fat whore and call it a day."

Replacing the engine on a pushmower is pretty easy--if it doesn't have a throttle control or the grip safety. It's a simple case of removing the bolt that holds the blade on, and then 4 engine bolts. The throttle and the grip safety are enough to confuse most people enough to forget the project.

You are throwing around turbo installs and engine swaps and rebuilds like they are as simple as the lower half of the multiplication table.

They take research, organization, money and the willpower to see them through. Even just buying a good used motor will take just about everything you have to successfully swap it in and get it running. It will be 10x the project you thought it would be--and then some. You can spend a week trying to get an exhaust manifold bolt out--and then snap it off flush with the surface of the head and be really, really screwed.

 

[TheMuffinOfEvil]

I am well aware, I have lots of more experienced help on doing the actual project once I figure out exactly what I want to do. I really do appreciate all the advice I have gotten here.

 

[Dweano]

It will be 10x the project you thought it would be--and then some. You can spend a week trying to get an exhaust manifold bolt out--and then snap it off flush with the surface of the head and be really, really screwed.

That basically sums up my ranger owning experience haha. Also been there done that, try snapping off a tap flush with the head surface...even worse than a bolt haha

 

[Big Jim M]

Well Muff... You sure have been bouncing around in this thread. First off you wanted more horsepower.. Then we find you are near 3 grand on the interstate and you want to lower the rpm.. Loseing rpm will lower the horses in all gears at all times.. Is THAT what you want?
Sounds to me like you have a nice 4"10 gearing. I have 4:10's in both of my rangers. I also have the same tires you are using. I think What you are riding around in is about the best a stock ranger can be. The speed limit on our I-10 is 80mph. I drive it at about 85 in my ranger.. Showing nearly 3,000 rpm. I get about 16mpg on that hiway. When I get off of it and throttle down to 60 or so my mpg goes up to about 18. I have enough horsepower ar any speed and in any gear to satisfy myself.
Big JIm

 

[TheMuffinOfEvil]

Yea, Ive been bouncing around like mad, I am super indecisive about what I want to do to this truck, Ive had it so long and I really want to keep it a lot longer. I cant thank you all enough for the help and I am sure I am going to have to ask for more here soon as I try to make my decision, I really hope I am not driving you all crazy. I have been reading up like mad on the V8 swap from an exlporer and went and found out how much I could get one for to transplant. Thats really what I am leaning towards at this point and I am going to try to stick to that idea if I decide it is with in my ability to do at least most of it. My step father is a mechanic with about 35 years experience and is willing to put in some major hours on it as well. My biggest thing right now is understanding whats going to control the motor when I transplant it, I have a grasp on most everything else after reading through the V8 swap tech guide and forums. I just don't see any instructions for how you change the computer itself unless I am missing something major, which is quite possible.

 

[TheMuffinOfEvil]

I just read the pages again and get the computer part. I think the only question I have left for you all at this point is about the transmission. Is there an adapter that would allow me to keep me manual transmission and transfer case, or am I stuck switching them up?

 

[TheMuffinOfEvil]

I didnt want to make another thread to ask such a simple question, but is the 4.0 ohv a zero tolerance motor? I know if the timing snaps on a sohc the valves are ruined, is the same true of the ohv? Or do you just put another timing chain on and go?

 

[rocks]

I run about 3000-3200 rpms down the highway around 70-75 mph, but that is with 4.88 gears and 35" tires.

 

[TheMuffinOfEvil]

Thank you all for all the help. I ended up deciding to have the motor rebuilt with the 410 cam, performance heads and exhaust all the way back, then a local speed shop is going to put a turbo on it for me.

 

[Big Jim M]

No it is the same

I didnt want to make another thread to ask such a simple question, but is the 4.0 ohv a zero tolerance motor? I know if the timing snaps on a sohc the valves are ruined, is the same true of the ohv? Or do you just put another timing chain on and go?

as the sohc engine. Both are what is known as "interference" engines. Meaning if the chain snaps (which is virtually inknown) the pistons will hit the valves that are slightly opened.
In modern engines only belt driven valves are non interference. I think, as I don't know of any chain driven camshafts that are non interference.
Big JIm