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Dually rear end swap question


Probably my biggest concern with that rear end you have though, is parts availability, Mainly brakes and bearings
Last night I found d a list with part numbers from a forum with all the replacement parts and everything can be found here in the US, even the drums and shoes, bearings, seals, etc...
 
Real trucks should have stick shifts. At least one. I love the fact that my 87 is a double stick. No push buttons.

@wellcraft I’m up to my tail in my own projects and what I try to do for a living, but if you want me to look for something specific, let me know and I’ll squeeze it in. And the offer to join you is always there if my health cooperates.
 
Relining the shoes isn't too bad, never heard of relining drums other than turning them.
My buddy has a Porsche and did it ... it was something like $300/drum(and that was a few years back.)

But if Toyota/aftermarket still makes the drums, he's fine.

Im thinking about going the dana 60 route per recommendation from this group. I don't want to use the stock wheels and finding a nice set of wheels in the 16" range is hard. I've read that wheels from the transit, sprinter vans have the same bolt pattern. If I want to change the bolt pattern it will cost me an additional $1k. I got a quote from 2 places the other day so at the end it's going to get way to expensive after everything I will have to do to be able to use the toyota axle.
The Transit/Sprinter wheels are 6 x 205 (just over 8"). Everyone just has to be a little...special.

You're running into my issue: Being a cheap frugal Ranger guy and making a dually were not compatible.
The fact that the local fiberglass guy wanted $4k to take a set of stepside fenders and turn them into dually fenders didn't help.​
 
For fender options they do make flared bedsides to fit on a Ranger bed for racing... it would mean a bigger wheel arch though. FX4 Alcoas on the front, dual 22.5 Alcoas on the rear...

 
i was referring to the regular 60/70 u full float from a normal van. they can end up being a bit wider than normal dually wheels. where i shop i can generally get the dually axles for sub 250. the reg axle 75-250..that is at a u pull yard.





call those guys for wheels if you are having a hard time locating them. the coined type lets you run lug centric.

getting the studs right is the key.

what happens on some fullsize trucks is the need for spacer to keep from tagging the springs/frame makes it wider that a normal dually, with the 16x 6 wheels.

the wheels i referred to earlier were wider than normal wheels which is why i ran into the problem.
 
 
Real trucks should have stick shifts. At least one. I love the fact that my 87 is a double stick. No push buttons.

@wellcraft I’m up to my tail in my own projects and what I try to do for a living, but if you want me to look for something specific, let me know and I’ll squeeze it in. And the offer to join you is always there if my health cooperates.
It's fine, I meant if you see something by coincidence. Really appreciate the offer.
 
My buddy has a Porsche and did it ... it was something like $300/drum(and that was a few years back.)

But if Toyota/aftermarket still makes the drums, he's fine.


The Transit/Sprinter wheels are 6 x 205 (just over 8"). Everyone just has to be a little...special.

You're running into my issue: Being a cheap frugal Ranger guy and making a dually were not compatible.
The fact that the local fiberglass guy wanted $4k to take a set of stepside fenders and turn them into dually fenders didn't help.​
I remember something about those wheels in a thread but I honestly can't remember in detail.

Thankfully I have experience with fiberglass l. I've been working on and off for the last 15 to 17 years. But I know what people are doing is to remove the side from a regular bed and swaping them with the sides of a flarside, so I need to get a regular bed to swap the sides.
 
I read that the ford ranger has a 108 tooh count tone ring, if I change the gear ratio, do I need to do the math for a different tooth count?

If so, how do I determine tooth count for a tone ring needed for the speed sensor if I'm using the toyota rear end with a 4.10 gearing (I still need to verify if it's actually 4.10)

It looks like a 108 tone ring measures about 8.5" O.D. that's a big saw blade to put in the axle shaft yoke, lol.
 
I read that the ford ranger has a 108 tooh count tone ring, if I change the gear ratio, do I need to do the math for a different tooth count
No. It rotates at wheel speed. So none of the gearing matters. Only wheel diameter would change it.
It looks like a 108 tone ring measures about 8.5" O.D. that's a big saw blade to put in the axle shaft yoke, lol.
The 108 tooth ring is the one that would mount to the carrier behind the ring gear. The ring gear in an 8.8” differential is 8.8” in diameter. So the tone ring is slightly smaller.

Ideally, you would buy one of those aftermarket setups. Then you would have a tone ring that mounts behind the flange in the pinion shaft outside the differential. Then thr sensor would be mounted close to it. The electronics package that comes with that would then be programmable to calculate the pulses you need to replicate the 108 tooth OEM ring and sensor.
 
For clarity, here is a view of the inside if the differential. On the left side, you see an edge view of the ring gear. To the left if that is the 108 tooth tone ring. Both are bolted to the carrier using the same bolts.
IMG_0900.jpeg
 

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