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Manual transmission VS auto for off roading??


I've wheeled both. Each has its positive and negative points. I prefer a manual. If for no other reason, you can bump start your truck with a manual if the battery is weak from cold or an altermator/starter failure. If any of those fail on an auto, you are walking or looking for a tow. Autos are easier on the trail but they develope a lot of heat. I have had issues on long, steep climbs. I have an auto now and will drive it untill it dies. However, when it dies, I'll go back with a manual. Never wheel an A4LD in overdrive. I usually manually shift mine or just run it in drive. Saves lots of unnecessary shifts and seems to help with some of those reliability issues.
 
A manual transmission is way better for most wheeling. Below is a list of things that a stock RBV manual tranny has over a stock RBV auto.


More reliable
Cheaper and easier to fix or replace
Allows you to bump start if your starting system fails on the trail
More power
Better engine braking
No overheating issues to worry about
Tranny always stays in the gear you choose

WOT hill climbs? Pick the right gear for the climb and stick with it. There's no reason to shift. Same for mud.

Like an auto over a manual cause you don't have to burn the clutch? Get the right gearing.
 
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If for no other reason, you can bump start your truck with a manual if the battery is weak from cold or an altermator/starter failure.

If your battery or alternator dies you are walking anyway unless you have a magneto.

Like an auto over a manual cause you don't have to burn the clutch? Get the right gearing.

Says the guy with a doubler and 5.13's...
 
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A manual transmission is way better for most wheeling. Below is a list of things that a stock RBV manual tranny has over a stock RBV auto.


More reliable
Cheaper and easier to fix or replace
Allows you to bump start if your starting system fails on the trail
More power
Better engine braking
No overheating issues to worry about
Tranny always stays in the gear you choose

WOT hill climbs? Pick the right gear for the climb and stick with it. There's no reason to shift. Same for mud.

Like an auto over a manual cause you don't have to burn the clutch? Get the right gearing.

All valid and good points you listen Evan. But about hill climbs and mud. Momentum is key, and staying on the power is key. Do you start a long obstical in the same gear that you end up finishing in? Hasn't been my experience. Auto vr standard hill climbing I routinely see autos finish and manuals have trouble. Can't effectively hit a hill in a gear that gives you enough power to finish.

If your battery or alternator dies you are walking anyway unless you have a magneto.
Booster cables guys, booster cables. lol, just teasin, ya, POINT to standards for that! (I try and carry a spare starter! hehe)
 
If your battery or alternator dies you are walking anyway unless you have a magneto.


Yes, but the batt has to be so dead that the field is depleted in the alternator. This would almost never happen on the trail, unless you had a horrible hot to ground occur. It happens if something gets left on all night or the battery is left to sit for years.

There is almost always enough juice in the battery to maintain the alt field, even it it can't power a light bulb.

I have seen tons of starters die on the trail due to mud and water intake. Those with manuals bump start the rig and those with autos are SOL.
 
ya well this helps me alot but i think im still leaning toward manual aslong as you are in
4 lo my buddy by mstake drove 4H bush wacking and ya the poor clutch was smoking like crazy i almost did the same thing
thats all beginners mistakes but ya like what evan said just pick one gear and stick with it dont worry abotu shifting when im mud boggin i usually get goin in first then go to second and just stick with second cuz its still got the get up and go to it which helps in mud i think

ive never done hill climbing or sand im most like mud and i just stick with second in 4lo
 
All valid and good points you listen Evan. But about hill climbs and mud. Momentum is key, and staying on the power is key. Do you start a long obstical in the same gear that you end up finishing in? Hasn't been my experience. Auto vr standard hill climbing I routinely see autos finish and manuals have trouble. Can't effectively hit a hill in a gear that gives you enough power to finish.


I usually pick a gear, like second for a tough hill climb or mud pit. I get up a little speed (get a running start) and then hit the climb at about 1500 RPM. That gives me a good portion of the RPM range to work with in case I need more speed.

But yeah, if you did need more speed, you'd be SOL with a manual on a hill climb or bog. That's where choosing the right gear comes in. A manual takes more skill to drive than an auto, and that's one of the skills.
 
Yes, but the batt has to be so dead that the field is depleted in the alternator. This would almost never happen on the trail, unless you had a horrible hot to ground occur. It happens if something gets left on all night or the battery is left to sit for years.

There is almost always enough juice in the battery to maintain the alt field, even it it can't power a light bulb.

I have seen tons of starters die on the trail due to mud and water intake. Those with manuals bump start the rig and those with autos are SOL.

I came out one night to find my battery dead, got a jump, drove accross town (3 miles) and my truck died as I pulled into my driveway at home... I was only running the stock headlights (it was dark, no way around it)
 
everyone is aware here the the power loss difference between a auto and manual is actually pretty signifigant


autos lose 25-30% power to the rear wheels

manuals only lose 15-20%


a 10% jump in power from a auto to a manual is a signifigant gain in the ass dyno category, ask anyone thats done a 5spd swap in a ranger....
 
everyone is aware here the the power loss difference between a auto and manual is actually pretty signifigant

autos lose 25-30% power to the rear wheels

manuals only lose 15-20%

a 10% jump in power from a auto to a manual is a signifigant gain in the ass dyno category, ask anyone thats done a 5spd swap in a ranger....


My butt dyno has never given me numbers like that! lol.
I know manuals obviously have alot more satisfying throttle response due to the direct coupling of driveline, but once a torq converter is "locked up" they do quite well for themselves (from what I've learned). That is a big perk to a stick is the snappy throttle response.
Can you back this up with something? I'm interested to see.
 
I love my auto for what I do. Its a lot easier on parts, a lot smoother and gentler for getting over obstacles. All the guys I run with that have manuals are always cursing how easy I make some sections of trail look because of my auto. I'm mostly trail running, rocks and such.

I've got a shift kit in my A4LD, and never wheel in OD. Its shifts hard and fast, it shifts better than new and its got 220,000km's on it.

My vote is for auto.

Auto gets my vote.
 
My butt dyno has never given me numbers like that! lol.
I know manuals obviously have alot more satisfying throttle response due to the direct coupling of driveline, but once a torq converter is "locked up" they do quite well for themselves (from what I've learned). That is a big perk to a stick is the snappy throttle response.
Can you back this up with something? I'm interested to see.

my numbers were off slightly, enjoy

http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm
 
Manual. Auto is nice for super precision control, BUT, I'm NOT putting up with a shitty ass A4LD and I'm not losing overdrive. With a manual coupled with a doubler/right gears, there is very little reason to go auto, for me anyways. I get 20x more reliability, more power, bump starts the engine (I've had to do it before) and my current gearing is OK, learn how to slip your clutch the right way and it will last longer than you think.
 
my numbers were off slightly, enjoy

http://www.superstang.com/horsepower.htm

interesting, thnks Slightly more rotating mass, and defiantly more teeth engaged, yes, these things do consume HP. To bad it equates to 5-8%. (I once heard a C6 eats 50HP just to spin at idle! blech) But, "them's is the breaks".

Well this has been as interesting as anticipated, :c-n: I still stand over here on the lonely side with Sasquatch_Ryda.

Dear MUDDING B-3000, i suggest you ride along on a wheel or two with some dudes and take note of the trans and how they perform for guys. Cause if this thread has shown anything, it's that this is a "weapon of choice" thing.
 

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