MAB3L, the most reasonable truck on the road!

[bhgl]

Just curious, when you say "rooftop solar" are you talking about the roof of the truck or of your house?

EDIT: Somehow I missed that you said you have a 1000W compressor- that was going to be my question, have you run the math on how many watts of solar you could fit on the truck? Wasn't sure if you were suggesting ypu could run the compressor in the driveway to "pre cool" the cabin or if you're planning to run it while parked in the wild.

On the roof of the truck, I think I can squeeze 300 watts of solar up there if I go crazy on getting the most up to date panels. They won't generate enough to run anything on their own, but they'll help in supplementing the storage batteries when I'm off grid, parked, and while driving. Also just give me guilt free charging for my laptop, phone, camera e.t.c. when I'm off camping. In ideal conditions, it's going to charge a 100 AH battery after around 4-5 hours of good sun, for the purposes of supplementing the alternator, and existing battery (which I'll most likely replace with an AGM battery) it should genuinely keep essential systems running without demanding peak output from the alternator at all times.

I have gotten into the habit of plugging my car's block heater in even during above 0C weather, as it helps reduce wear and heat up times, with a proper charge controller for the panels, I should also be able to plug the truck in to charge it's main and supplemental batteries, or even run the vehicle with the engine off and not deplete them. Meaning "free" AC at powered campsites, or wherever I'm staying that has a plug, and I can surprisingly easily route airflow into the bed.

Total amperage demand at ABSOLUTE peak consumption, that means all lights on + brights, wipers going, AC blowing with electric compressor, wipers on, a max load from the 12 volt power point, interior lights at their brightest, stereo blasting, flashers, and the electric powersteering running at its max is in the realm of 230-250 amps @ 12 volts, so 2760-3000 watts. Granted, this isn't how the car is going to be driven, but it's important to have an idea.

In reality electricity demands are going to be lower pretty much all the time.

Except of course in the event I'm driving while trying to read a paper map, in the dead of night with my brights, while it's raining, but also incredibly hot, after I've lost almost all strength in my arms, while needing to caution other motorists of an unsecured load, while running an electric cooler through the power port, then trying to light a cigarette, all while AC/DC blasts at max volume through the radio.

Assuming the alternator has no efficiency loss at all it's rated for 130 amps, so once again I'll have to find a means of supplementing it either with an AGM battery or just upgrading the alternator to something from Mechman, which I don't really want to do given how much they cost, and I want to minimize engine drag, but it would be the most elegant solution to be fair.

 

[pentode]

On the roof of the truck, I think I can squeeze 300 watts of solar up there if I go crazy on getting the most up to date panels. They won't generate enough to run anything on their own, but they'll help in supplementing the storage batteries when I'm off grid, parked, and while driving. Also just give me guilt free charging for my laptop, phone, camera e.t.c. when I'm off camping. In ideal conditions, it's going to charge a 100 AH battery after around 4-5 hours of good sun, for the purposes of supplementing the alternator, and existing battery (which I'll most likely replace with an AGM battery) it should genuinely keep essential systems running without demanding peak output from the alternator at all times.

I have gotten into the habit of plugging my car's block heater in even during above 0C weather, as it helps reduce wear and heat up times, with a proper charge controller for the panels, I should also be able to plug the truck in to charge it's main and supplemental batteries, or even run the vehicle with the engine off and not deplete them. Meaning "free" AC at powered campsites, or wherever I'm staying that has a plug, and I can surprisingly easily route airflow into the bed.

Total amperage demand at ABSOLUTE peak consumption, that means all lights on + brights, wipers going, AC blowing with electric compressor, wipers on, a max load from the 12 volt power point, interior lights at their brightest, stereo blasting, flashers, and the electric powersteering running at its max is in the realm of 230-250 amps @ 12 volts, so 2760-3000 watts. Granted, this isn't how the car is going to be driven, but it's important to have an idea.

In reality electricity demands are going to be lower pretty much all the time.

Except of course in the event I'm driving while trying to read a paper map, in the dead of night with my brights, while it's raining, but also incredibly hot, after I've lost almost all strength in my arms, while needing to caution other motorists of an unsecured load, while running an electric cooler through the power port, then trying to light a cigarette, all while AC/DC blasts at max volume through the radio.

Assuming the alternator has no efficiency loss at all it's rated for 130 amps, so once again I'll have to find a means of supplementing it either with an AGM battery or just upgrading the alternator to something from Mechman, which I don't really want to do given how much they cost, and I want to minimize engine drag, but it would be the most elegant solution to be fair.

Yeah, I was thinking you might be able to squeeze 300-400 watts up on the roof (and cap), bearing in mind as you already know that that's the optimistic perfect-weather number. Also, I'd also be surprised if in real-world use you'd ever really need more than 130 amps... although you'll probably use most of that on occasion charging batteries etc. But assuming the A/C takes about 80max, that still leaves you a good 50 to run the other stuff and that's when the A/C is on. I can't imagine the power steering pump will take much juice at all rolling down the road. Just remember to turn off the A/C when you're parallel parking.

I'll be curious how the electric A/C works out- I have a couple older cars I'd like to retrofit a small stealth A/C system into just to take the edge off on the hottest summer days.

 

[sgtsandman]

A 130 amp alternator generates about 1,500 to 1,800 watts (amps times volts equals watts). I think you will be ok without the solar but it won't hurt.

 

[bhgl]

Yeah, I was thinking you might be able to squeeze 300-400 watts up on the roof (and cap), bearing in mind as you already know that that's the optimistic perfect-weather number. Also, I'd also be surprised if in real-world use you'd ever really need more than 130 amps... although you'll probably use most of that on occasion charging batteries etc. But assuming the A/C takes about 80max, that still leaves you a good 50 to run the other stuff and that's when the A/C is on. I can't imagine the power steering pump will take much juice at all rolling down the road. Just remember to turn off the A/C when you're parallel parking.

I'll be curious how the electric A/C works out- I have a couple older cars I'd like to retrofit a small stealth A/C system into just to take the edge off on the hottest summer days.

Have to keep in mind that I do already have an E-Fan wired in as well, and it comes on when the AC clutch is activated to keep air moving through the condenser. Currently the setup is more than enough to keep everything powered and happy, with some left over.

I did some load testing and according to my battery charger thingy I'm currently using about 60% of alternator output when the car is running at idle with every single possible thing on as high as possible, lights, wipers, e-fan, blower motor included, hazards, stereo, e.t.c. It would make sense that my current draw is sitting around 80 Amps, but I have no idea really how that charger thing gets its readings or makes its calculations.

The two electrified accessories will consume 80 amps each at full tilt. The power steering can be adjusted via a dial that I already have, or shut off altogether with a switch I'll be adding, so you're right that it *shouldn't* consumer the full 80 amps at all times, but I'll have to see when its in the car. Judging by how other folks use the Volvo e-pumps in race cars, they usually have similar output alternators or even 90 amp alts, so I think I'll be fine without supplemental batteries up until the electric AC is installed.

The AC however is going to operate using the same signaling as the AC clutch, IF everything plays nicely. That's when extra battery capacity as a buffer, and supplemental charging is going to be necessary, but only for those months.

I know lots of folks have actually installed somewhat similar systems in their hot-rods and what not, but you have to keep in mind expected output. This 1000 Watt unit will probably be enough to keep my ultra-sealed (repositioned door jams), extra insulated (sound deadener + insulation in doors) regular cab cool on most hot days, but if you're rocking something with back seats and extra windows you might find that the "edge" is all it'll take off.

CORRECTION:

The unit I purchased has limited technical information, but at least according to the Ebay listing I purchased it from. The max "incoming current" is 63 Amps, and the max "applied power" is 1000 Watts.

What that means I have no idea frankly, if the unit is built to run at 12 volts I'd assume the max amperage would be closer to 80 Amps given that 12/1000 = 83.33

 

[bhgl]

A 130 amp alternator generates about 1,500 to 1,800 watts (amps times volts equals watts). I think you will be ok without the solar but it won't hurt.

I think I'll be alright with just the e-power steering pump and the current alternator + battery setup, I do still want to install at least one 100 watt panel for charging my unrelated devices while I'm on the road. It seems every time I go on a roadtrip I end up draining the battery at least one time by mistake, so knowing that my jump pack and phone is at 100% is at least a little bit of peace of mind.

When the electric AC goes in however, I think I'll be in a power deficit in normal driving conditions that involve use of the AC, I could either use a battery as a buffer and it'll recharge when the AC is off via the alternator, or I can get some free juice off the panels so the alternator ain't working so hard.

 

[-Nate]

Nice rig ! .

I'm with you : I was a farm boy so $pending any more than nece$$ary is a non starter as is having more tan I need for the job at hand .

Oddly, the Mazda is the second run yet it gets a few better quality parts, the #1 (IMO) being a metal tail gate handle .

Almost every Ranger I see has a broken plastic handle, it's a simple thing to lubricate the latches once or twice a year but no one does then the crappy plastic handle snaps .

I found a nice B2300 in my local self service junkyard, I think the Metal Mazda handle was $6 .

Id already one on line and paid $20 for a new chromed metal one, the box had the correct P/N but inside was a cheap black plastic handle so off to the junkyard I went .

 

[bhgl]

Nice rig ! .

I'm with you : I was a farm boy so $pending any more than nece$$ary is a non starter as is having more tan I need for the job at hand .

Oddly, the Mazda is the second run yet it gets a few better quality parts, the #1 (IMO) being a metal tail gate handle .

Almost every Ranger I see has a broken plastic handle, it's a simple thing to lubricate the latches once or twice a year but no one does then the crappy plastic handle snaps .

I found a nice B2300 in my local self service junkyard, I think the Metal Mazda handle was $6 .

Id already one on line and paid $20 for a new chromed metal one, the box had the correct P/N but inside was a cheap black plastic handle so off to the junkyard I went .

Aside from the fact they only were made up to 2009 and with limited packages, I'd definitely say the Mazda trucks are on average "better". Somehow, I seem to see almost as many of them on the road today in my small town as I do Rangers!

Not to mention the fact that they look a little more handsome, in my opinion.

If you're a spend thrift fella, you may want to read this thread fairly carefully going forward haha, as much I went out of my way to find deals and source used replacement parts. I most certainly spent more than the truck is worth at this point going to electrified accessories haha.

I just need another 200 000 KMs and I'm sure it'll even out!

 

[bhgl]

For anyone interested/curious, this is the 12Volt Compressor kit I bought.

12V Electric AC Scroll Compressor Universal Car Air Conditioner Semi Close Kit | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 12V Electric AC Scroll Compressor Universal Car Air Conditioner Semi Close Kit at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

 

[-Nate]

Thanx and yes, I'm "Yankee Thrifty" (means : CHEAP) but unlike most tightwads I always get top Dollar Value .

I paid scrap price for this rig and now have about $10K invested in it and barring collisions I'm confident it'll outlast me .

Way back in 1973 I was driving a '71 Ford/Mazda 'Courrier' (big sticker in the backlight saying "FORDS NEW 180CC IMPORT") and when we rebuilt the engine I noticed some hard parts were cheaper from the Mazda dealer .

As far as looks, I know many prefer the Mazda's grille etc. and it's a simple thing to mix and match to get what one wants, this is what I've done for 50 + years now .

I only wish they'd been better about rust protection and I have zero doubts about what will happen to me if I get hit in this beer can .

Nevertheless I love it .

 

[bhgl]

Quick update for you guys:

We are now T-Minus 15 days until I leave with my girlfriend for an 11000 KM roadtrip from my home here in Northern Ontario, to the Yukon!

The truck has been laid up for the last few days as I replaced some pretty crucial components on the front end them being:

-Lower Ball Joints (old ones were blown out and loose)
-Outer Tie rods (not in the worst shape, could have certainly been in better shape)
-Shocks (now fitted with Bilstein 4600s, old ones seemed fine but certainly used)
-Pads + Rotors (not much life left on the pads, different amounts of pad material on pass. and driver side comparatively, and some pretty deep pits on the back of the rotor)
-Bearings outer and inner

I'm also installing the Belltech 3inch drop kit along with some alignment Cams, the front springs are just about in, but one needs to be rotated to be seated properly in the lower control arm.

On the rear of the vehicle we'll be installing:

-Belltech Lowering Leafs
-Billstein 4600s, specifically ones for a tacoma to better fit the new lowered axles.
-2 new u-joints, as at least one of them squeaks when reversing, and neither are greasable unfortunately.

Moving on from that I've got to build out a platform to put a mattress on top of, and install the Ez loader drawer.

From there, there's just a few miscellaneous things to do around the truck like defogging headlights and aligning them, weather sealing the back, maybe hunt down the vacuum leak that makes my blend door not work, oh and an oil change.

I won't be installing any of the other electrified components before we leave as I just don't have the time on hand to install, test, and make sure they're working reliably before heading off into the great white north, where I REALLY don't want something to fail.

If anyone has any tips, things I should check/look at for before heading off please let me know!

I'll be sure to take lots of pictures of the trip, and give you guys a full report on fuel economy when I get back!

 

[superj]

sounds like its going to be a super cool trip.

 

[bhgl]

sounds like its going to be a super cool trip.

I'm excited!

The first time I drove to the Yukon I did it in a 2006 Ford Freestar Converted Cargo Van that I bought for 1000$ in "running" order. Without so much as an oil change and spark plugs it took me all the way there and most of the way back, until the transmission output shaft gave up after spending the first summer of the pandemic at top speed and around 400 Lbs over the payload limit lol

 

[superj]

how are the temps up there? i have never been north of virginia, other than very very short trips. i have visited minnesota and new york when the weather was warm for about 2 or 3 days each and that is as far north as i have been.

my dad was in virginia in the marine corps when i was a kid. i would go stay the summers with him, though, so no cold weather. the farthest north i have lived is camp lejeune north carolina, for one winter. so i have no idea how summers and winters are for normal life in anywhere that is not considered south. only other places is southern california, where i grew up, and hawaii, where we lived for 3 years when i was really little.

i have also been to yakima washington during the summer. my dad was stationed there as a recruiter before virginia. but still, only during summer did we go.


i have always wondered what its like in canada and alaska. you see stuff on tv and it always looks snowy and cold but i feel like that is not the truth for year round living.

its probably the same as texas is presented on tv. people think texas is sandy deserts and cactus with hot all the time but here in south texas, we are plains land. long stretches of grassy fields with small trees that are windblown. and hot, yes, from april to december its hot, usually. and i mean the heat index is over 100 degrees alot of the time because of hte humidity.

so i am very interested in your pictures and hearing how it is. temps, greenery, animals seen, stuff like that

 

[-Nate]

Sounds like a fun trip .

There's a round, black vacuum chamber on the forward lower inside edge of the passenger side inner fender liner, I found the plastic vacuum pipe to it was perished as was the vertical plastic vacuum pipe to the heater's hot water valve ~ it crumbled in my hand .

It's supposed to travel vertically and be held in place by hooks molded into the leading edge of the heater box, God alone knows how/why I was mis routed close to the engine where the heat killed it .

Also the 10MM I.D. hoses to the fuel tank vapor recovery system were all perished at their ends, the center of each hose looked fine .

 

[bhgl]

how are the temps up there? i have never been north of virginia, other than very very short trips. i have visited minnesota and new york when the weather was warm for about 2 or 3 days each and that is as far north as i have been.

my dad was in virginia in the marine corps when i was a kid. i would go stay the summers with him, though, so no cold weather. the farthest north i have lived is camp lejeune north carolina, for one winter. so i have no idea how summers and winters are for normal life in anywhere that is not considered south. only other places is southern california, where i grew up, and hawaii, where we lived for 3 years when i was really little.

i have also been to yakima washington during the summer. my dad was stationed there as a recruiter before virginia. but still, only during summer did we go.


i have always wondered what its like in canada and alaska. you see stuff on tv and it always looks snowy and cold but i feel like that is not the truth for year round living.

its probably the same as texas is presented on tv. people think texas is sandy deserts and cactus with hot all the time but here in south texas, we are plains land. long stretches of grassy fields with small trees that are windblown. and hot, yes, from april to december its hot, usually. and i mean the heat index is over 100 degrees alot of the time because of hte humidity.

so i am very interested in your pictures and hearing how it is. temps, greenery, animals seen, stuff like that

The one thing I really appreciate about Canada is that we really do have seasons! Spring is full of water and things springing to life, summer is always busy with people getting out in nature and wildlife around, fall is cool and brisk with leaves falling and changing, and winter is cold and pretty long but it has it's own charm especially if you enjoy the outdoors.

The other thing about Canada is that it's MASSIVE, so a lot of Canada has different temperature all year round, most Canadians live within around 200 Miles from the US border, so you can often use the nearest state as a pretty good reference. We actually do have some desert-type areas in the south of Alberta/Saskatchewan.

Our summers are pretty fair where I live, but they can get WARM too since we live far from the coasts. Where I live it's not uncommon to have at least a few 95 F days in the summer compared to texas though, we have much higher humidity which makes those days truly brutal.

In the winter, things CAN get cold, although unfortunately they've been getting warmer and warmer every year due to climate change. Growing up I basically always had to wear a snowsuit to go trick or treating at the end of October, but this last winter we didn't even have snow on New Year's day, and that's more or less been the case for the last few years.

In a typical winter where I live, the temps range between 14F, all the way down to -30/40 F on the worst days with windchill, and we get around 5 feet of snow.
-----

As for the Yukon, September is usually pretty mild, for a Texan you'd probably consider it the coldest months of the year in North Texas, but the snow pretty reliably comes near the end of September start of October. The Yukon's weather is actually quite a bit different than a lot of populated Alaska, since most of their cities are on the coast, they actually get a milder winter and summer season.