DVDSWAN 02 Sport Trac Build/Maintenance thread

[sgtsandman]

When it comes to head lights, using a restore kit is a temporary fix, even if it has the sealer to protect the newly cleaned lenses. Replacing is usually the permanent solution.

For marker lights and turn signals, you may get better and longer lasting results.

 

[dvdswan]

Lately I've been getting a vibration in the seat at highway speeds. Kept putting off the doing the rotate to make sure it was the tires. Well, today I received an email from Wally World saying I need to have a rotation done. So I swung by to see when they had an opening. Luck would have it right then they did. So balance and rotate completed and vibration is now gone. Bonus points, tire noise subsided for the time too.

 

[rumblecloud]

 

[dvdswan]

So, I've been experiencing a lot of PFM lately, or at least noticing it. May it's due to the tires being slightly out of balance that they shook things up.

Key buzzer and headlamp warning have started working again. That means I'm holding off on buying a GEM module for now. 4WD hasn't acted up since I have to jump the truck. I did have to unplug/plug the 4x4CM connection. But it works perfect again.

Since I bought the ST yr and half ago, I've been meaning to pull the interior and give it a good cleaning. The center console has lots of dust for the controls and vents on the back of it. When I did the body mounts, I cleaned the areas I could reach but there are a lot of areas I know still have dust. POs must have followed a lot of other people down dusty roads.

I'm hoping to get some small things done this weekend provided the weather cooperates. Replacing CC switch on steering wheel, install new speakers in rear doors, and possibly replace the shocks. Fingers crossed.

 

[dvdswan]

Nothing major today, just did upgrade to headlights. Maybe I'm just putting off getting under the truck because it seems to get harder to get up off the floor.

Before:

6 8mm screws (2 screws and 4 bolts actually) to remove the top cover...

one screw for each turn signal then pull out the turn signal, be careful not to damage the 2 slide posts... disconnect bulb, it twists out.

there are 2 slides for each headlamp assembly, that pull up that hold the headlamp assembly in. You can use a pry bar to assist you if they don't pull up with your finger. Incidentally, you would do this process to replace your headlamp bulb. Disconnect the connector from the headlamp bulb and the assembly pulls out.

Install is just reversed. Step back and enjoy your new lights. Don't forget to align them. I did count the threads which actually matched the new ones, but they do look like they might be high.

I also noticed that plastic cowl was gathering water, so I grabbed a drill with a 1/4" bit and drilled a hole at each wiper arm area to drain the water that pools there. I got this idea from another forum.

Wiper Drain
These are the headlamps, these ones come with new bulbs as well. The others are just housings.
https://www.amazon.com/AmeriLite-20...ent-Headlights/dp/B088FF8TQ2/?tag=959media-20

 

[dvdswan]

About 2 or 3 weeks ago I switched on the interior lights and the compass/temperature display went blank. Figured I look at one of the weekends coming up figure it would be a quick fix since I had a spare console sitting around from the wiring circuit I fixed some time ago. Replaced the board for the overhead console on Saturday with the extra one I had laying around. Display works now, just need to open up the TM and do the calibration for it. I did see videos of loose resistors and all that. Unfortunately, none of the resistors were loose and did appear to have a complete connection.

And after a quick search I found the "How-To" in the owner's manual.

 

[dvdswan]

So after owning the ST for 2+ years, I've came across the first real drivability issue... that I didn't cause at least. Last week was warmer that normal in the 90s. I know, it's hotter than that in the SW, that's why I don't live in AZ any more. Beautiful scenery, but I just got tired of the warmer days.

Anyway, I've been running with the AC on and notice the temp gauge higher than normal. Truck usually ran halfway for the last 2 years no matter the temp. So running at the top end of the normal range I figured the heat was causing it. Did quite a bit of running around and noticed that the gauge had dropped when I came to a stop light. Then rose back up when I started driving. then settled around 3/4 gauge at cruise. AC started blowing warm for a minute then cooled as normal. I thought the fan clutch was acting up, so I was going to check this weekend for the typical overheating cause items. Well on Friday morning on the way to work, AC off, as it was 62 outside, temp gauge rose to the top of normal range on the highway and realized there is more than I thought.

Friday: on the way home it was running hot again and fluctuating as well. Got home and did a quick check, fan clutch is weak, felt the radiator cap which was at best only warm, upper rad hose had pressure but also not very hot, coolant reservoir was pretty full, and heard so bubbling around or under the intake. Pretty sure the t-stat is failing. No drips under truck either.

Yesterday, ran to the zone and picked up coolant, t-stat, and a rad cap. Started draining the radiator and removed items to get to the t-stat. The rad cap was stuck but came off with some persuasion. Drained the overflow tank as well. Popped out the t-stat and inspected it. From what it looks like the t-stat was not operating properly and the rad cap was stuck. Replaced both, refilled with new coolant, and test drove. All back to normal and didn't go passed half gauge.

Going to replace the fan clutch in the near future as it is old, weak, and probably farts dust from time to time.

 

[Rick W]

So after owning the ST for 2+ years, I've came across the first real drivability issue... that I didn't cause at least. Last week was warmer that normal in the 90s. I know, it's hotter than that in the SW, that's why I don't live in AZ any more. Beautiful scenery, but I just got tired of the warmer days.

Anyway, I've been running with the AC on and notice the temp gauge higher than normal. Truck usually ran halfway for the last 2 years no matter the temp. So running at the top end of the normal range I figured the heat was causing it. Did quite a bit of running around and noticed that the gauge had dropped when I came to a stop light. Then rose back up when I started driving. then settled around 3/4 gauge at cruise. AC started blowing warm for a minute then cooled as normal. I thought the fan clutch was acting up, so I was going to check this weekend for the typical overheating cause items. Well on Friday morning on the way to work, AC off, as it was 62 outside, temp gauge rose to the top of normal range on the highway and realized there is more than I thought.

Friday: on the way home it was running hot again and fluctuating as well. Got home and did a quick check, fan clutch is weak, felt the radiator cap which was at best only warm, upper rad hose had pressure but also not very hot, coolant reservoir was pretty full, and heard so bubbling around or under the intake. Pretty sure the t-stat is failing. No drips under truck either.

Yesterday, ran to the zone and picked up coolant, t-stat, and a rad cap. Started draining the radiator and removed items to get to the t-stat. The rad cap was stuck but came off with some persuasion. Drained the overflow tank as well. Popped out the t-stat and inspected it. From what it looks like the t-stat was not operating properly and the rad cap was stuck. Replaced both, refilled with new coolant, and test drove. All back to normal and didn't go passed half gauge.

Going to replace the fan clutch in the near future as it is old, weak, and probably farts dust from time to time.

I’m glad it worked out for you. I’ll just throw in the age-old trick, if you can’t figure out what’s going on, of dropping the thermostat into a saucepan of cold water and then watching it as the water heats up and boils. You can see with your own eyes if it’s opening and closing around when it should. I also have a thermometer I can drop in the water, so I can check the point at which it opens.

If your troubleshooting and you can’t figure it out, that’s one way you might eliminate that item.

Hope it helps whomever