i hear ya and understand that the o.e. usually doesn't add more bigger better unless they have to,but my original post questioned the feasability of modifying the d28 to provide uncharacteristic strength to the smaller,lighter unit.most say just go d35 because thats what they learned from either experience or hearsay(i think a little of both).i am simply proposing using modern technology to modify a d28,i am not suggesting just throwing a stocker under the truck and crossing my fingers.i think if the virtues of cryo where brought to this reluctant corner of the auto industry i think everyone will greatly benefit from reduced breakage and longer service life of parts.every form of racing has realized the value and being new here am really startled that not only is it not being employed,but looked at with suspicion.this is not snake oil or a gimmick nascar,indy,moto gp,areospace all have made this a standard in there respective fields,so much so that it has trickled down and is now a viable option for regular people like us.once upon a time iron pistons where the standard due to their high strength,now we do alot more with far less(aluminum).this is not a perfect analogy,but the best i could think of.for myself,since no one else has gone there yet i plan on cryo treating a d28 and wipping the snot out of it in the desert.either way,good or bad i will report my findings.i'll carry spares and trust me.............i will test thoroughly
And I'll tell you one more time the "modification" of cryo treatment will onloy increase the strength of a Dana part so much, as is stated by others it's the U-joint and "Ears" that are at issue. yeah the cryo will make the shafts "Stronger" but stronger than what?
Stronger than a D35? I doubt it, even if you have NEW D28 shafts
(which I very much doubt), if you are dealing with old used crap
(I.E. shafts that are already rusted/pitted) cryotreating them is
a complete waste of time.
Particularly to save what you are trying to save.
It is however your time to waste.
the difference in unsprung weight between a D35 and a D28 can be described as "huge" and "slightly less huge"
I doubt you'd be able to tell one from the other in a blind test.
It isn't like the 18lbs I saved on my 1980 Saab by switching from the 1980 steering knuckles to the steering knuckles off a 1987 this saved 7lb on
EACH steering knuckle AND gave me ventilated rotors and was easily worth the $1400 it would have cost had I used dealer parts to do it
(My $200 Koni's had to work a whole lot less)
And BTW, things have come full circle, the newest Catapillar diesels have stainless steel piston crowns. (the piston is actually an assembly that is held together by the wrist in)
the skirts are aluminum.
Um, the Dana 35 actually increases your turning radius. The wider stance of the 35 allows you to turn to full lock without the tires rubbing the radius arms and limiting your turning.
you got that backwards
The D35 DECREASES the radius, Allows a TIGHTER turning circle (smaller radius) you are correct that the wider stance does allow more steering deflection.
You are right, you just used the wrong word.
On a Bronco2 with stock rims and 235 tires I could rub against the frame forward of the axle with the outboard tire while I rubbed the radius arm behind the axle with the inboard tire
With the D35 and 235's neither will touch.
Infact 31x10.5's don't hit.
MY supercab with a D35 can actually make a U-turn in
places I wouldn't have even tried when the truck was a 2wd.
wouldn't the correct offset wheels give you the same track width?let me know if i'm wrong but the difference between the two is less than an inch per side.
An inch is a huge difference when all you are comparing is "rub Vs NO rub"
"Correct" offset wheels are by definition FACTORY wheels.
Changing the offset adds additional stress to what most consider
a "weak" bearing arraingement.
I run 235/75-15's on 15x7 factory alloys (at the moment 5spoke Navajo Rims)
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