cryo treat a dana 28 ttb?

[Sunk]

No it's not, it has the distinct smaller and round bulge where the pig is that the D28 has, the 35 is larger and has the "dana" shape to it.

Yeah, I agree it looks like a D28.

Well if you can get the cryo done for free, then I guess you have nothing to lose. If something breaks, then you have your answer. I was thinking you had the option of paying for the cryo or paying for a D35..

 

[stegomon]

ya i read about the dana 28 for desert racing truck...it was a gen 3 2wheel that i guy swaped in a 28....but they custom fabbed somethin for a two piston caliper and bigger brakes......they go on for the pounds that s saves......does 20 lbs really meen that much in desrt run?

and also now that all dana 35s are over 10 years old.....wasnt there a guy out there trying to get crome moly axils made for use?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

ya i read about the dana 28 for desert racing truck...it was a gen 3 2wheel that i guy swaped in a 28....but they custom fabbed somethin for a two piston caliper and bigger brakes......they go on for the pounds that s saves......does 20 lbs really meen that much in desrt run?

The cab looks like a first or second generation though...

 

[mjonesjr]

wasnt there a guy out there trying to get crome moly axils made for use?

I could have swore that Jeff's Bronco Graveyard had chromo shafts for a Dana 35 TTB, but I can't find them on their site.

 

[canyoncritter]

dana 35...

short beam thats been back straped to box in the beam,(1/4 plate) weighs ruffly 30lbs

long beam(diffside) in stock forum from ford weighs ruffly 35lbs.

the pig with 4.56's in it and the shart cliped axle shaft still in it, 46 lbs...

the knuckles weigh ruffly 45lbs for both of them..with bj's in

the snouts ruffly 3lbs each

axle shafts(drivers side10lbs and long passenger side 13lbs.

manual hubs 4lbsea

scale was at minus 3lbs,didnt notice till had taken the pic and took the stuff off.

brake rotor 18 lbs ea(just a old junk one I had laying around)

bearings and races, 1.5lbs ea as a guess. so plus 6lbs

dont rember what brake calibur's weigh, and dont have any sitting around lose.

2-3lbs for bearing nuts, and axles washers and clips.

what ever gear oil weigh's....

3lbs for camber bushings and ping bolts

stock radius arms, ruffly 10lbs ea


ruffly 247 lbs, with out brake caliburs. for the d35....

 

[go-fast]

Yeah, I agree it looks like a D28.

Well if you can get the cryo done for free, then I guess you have nothing to lose. If something breaks, then you have your answer. I was thinking you had the option of paying for the cryo or paying for a D35..

yeah...i think i'm leaning in the d28 direction.i'll cryo the whole front end and see for myself.btwy i have access to the real deal,but there is plenty of info floating around the interwebz on diy cryo treatment.you can come very close to pro results with some of the homebrew setups i've seen.

 

[go-fast]

dana 35...








ruffly 247 lbs, with out brake caliburs. for the d35....

awesome thanks!

 

[canyoncritter]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4754

more axle weights. as you can see rick has the 28 listed in there as, 150 for the drivers side and 80lbs for the passenger side.

so aprx 17 lbs diffrence,(proably 10lbs if you take away the weight of the one beam I have with the passenger side boxed in with the 1/ in plate) plus the weight of the caliburs on the 35...10 lbs each....so aprx a 30lbs savings....

If you allready have the 28, a good pair of clean shafts, and you can cryo everything for free....go for it.what do you have to lose other than your time.

I know of a few trucks in the desert that ran 28's with out any real problems.But they almost never touched 4wd.As it was there for just to get rooling if we had stoped in a soft area.They pretty much just thought and drove the truck as a 2wd.

I would not rely on a 28 for runnning threw silt beds, or to climp steep lose rock hills.Or run it in 4wd even out in the sand to prevent bogging down in the sand with out using extreme care on the happy pedal.

after cryoing the axle shaft, the wenk leak i see is the hubs,then the guts on the 28..

but hell, if you got the parts and its free and your not going to run this as a comp. truck....go for it.

 

[go-fast]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4754

more axle weights. as you can see rick has the 28 listed in there as, 150 for the drivers side and 80lbs for the passenger side.

so aprx 17 lbs diffrence,(proably 10lbs if you take away the weight of the one beam I have with the passenger side boxed in with the 1/ in plate) plus the weight of the caliburs on the 35...10 lbs each....so aprx a 30lbs savings....

If you allready have the 28, a good pair of clean shafts, and you can cryo everything for free....go for it.what do you have to lose other than your time.

I know of a few trucks in the desert that ran 28's with out any real problems.But they almost never touched 4wd.As it was there for just to get rooling if we had stoped in a soft area.They pretty much just thought and drove the truck as a 2wd.

I would not rely on a 28 for runnning threw silt beds, or to climp steep lose rock hills.Or run it in 4wd even out in the sand to prevent bogging down in the sand with out using extreme care on the happy pedal.

after cryoing the axle shaft, the wenk leak i see is the hubs,then the guts on the 28..

but hell, if you got the parts and its free and your not going to run this as a comp. truck....go for it.

i was thinking 7s,i've been through the silt with 2 whl drive and don't want to do it again.

 

[Hahnsb2]

I still say in the sand and 31s the D28 will be fine, with a locked rear you'll also take a lot of stress of the front axle as well, I attribute that as probably the main reason I never broke my D28.

 

[go-fast]

I still say in the sand and 31s the D28 will be fine, with a locked rear you'll also take a lot of stress of the front axle as well, I attribute that as probably the main reason I never broke my D28.

30 pds off the front end and lower rotating weight sounds pretty good to me,i plan on locking a 31 spline 8.8 and putting weight where i need it.

 

[mjonesjr]

Another reason to have the 35 over the 28 is the extra width of the 35. If you are high speeding in the desert, then the wider the better.

 

[ScreeminDeemin]

you were asking about damage done to a dana 28. my 87 ranger has a 2.3 a M/T and 32's and I have snapped the ears off both front axles a couple of times I have snapped the outer splined end off on the rh axle I have exploded both front hubs and have sent ring gear teeth up through the case. I am currently swapping in a dana 35 with the dana44 outer hub conversion as I am tired of replacing parts. but with that said I have offroad raced rangers with v8s. and dana28s have held together under racing conditions. actually I have never broken a dana28 racing only hard offroading

 

[go-fast]

you were asking about damage done to a dana 28. my 87 ranger has a 2.3 a M/T and 32's and I have snapped the ears off both front axles a couple of times I have snapped the outer splined end off on the rh axle I have exploded both front hubs and have sent ring gear teeth up through the case. I am currently swapping in a dana 35 with the dana44 outer hub conversion as I am tired of replacing parts. but with that said I have offroad raced rangers with v8s. and dana28s have held together under racing conditions. actually I have never broken a dana28 racing only hard offroading

thanks for the info,when did you see these failures...rocks,mud ect?also were they high mileage parts?was the right side damage due to binding?

 

[mjonesjr]

also were they high mileage parts?

There is absolutely no way to know how many "miles" are on a TTB axle; well unless you drove 100% of the time since it was new with the hubs locked in. When the hubs are not locked in, the axle does NOT rotate; the front acts as if it was 2wd.