cryo treat a dana 28 ttb?

[go-fast]

There is absolutely no way to know how many "miles" are on a TTB axle; well unless you drove 100% of the time since it was new with the hubs locked in. When the hubs are not locked in, the axle does NOT rotate; the front acts as if it was 2wd.

i figure you can approximate the type of 4x4 usage based on miles,vehicle condition and upgrades.i know "miles" is a generic way to put it,but it is the only way i can think of.most people dont have an hour meter hooked up to there four wheel drive selector.

 

[Tony Raine]

again if you have personal experience breaking your d28 i would love to hear from you.

i was doing a couple mild jumps on the dana 28 when i accidentally nosedived (tires were only about a foot off the ground). cracked the spindle, wasted the hub, couldn't find the bearings, and thats a brake pad sitting on the trailer.

had to shove all the pieces (that were left) back into the hole and get creative with some c-clamps to get it back off the trailer. i had to drive up against that side of the trailer just to keep the tire on when i loaded it.



go dana 35. then you can even do the knuckle swap that todd did, if you plan on jumping at all. saving weight is one thing, but i think there are much better avenues to pursue in that regard.

 

[mjonesjr]

saving weight is one thing, but i think there are much better avenues to pursue in that regard.

You can add more power if you need.

 

[go-fast]

i was doing a couple mild jumps on the dana 28 when i accidentally nosedived (tires were only about a foot off the ground). cracked the spindle, wasted the hub, couldn't find the bearings, and thats a brake pad sitting on the trailer.

had to shove all the pieces (that were left) back into the hole and get creative with some c-clamps to get it back off the trailer. i had to drive up against that side of the trailer just to keep the tire on when i loaded it.



go dana 35. then you can even do the knuckle swap that todd did, if you plan on jumping at all. saving weight is one thing, but i think there are much better avenues to pursue in that regard.

do you have a photo of where the spindle broke?

 

[AllanD]

the housing on the 35 is a big chunk of iron though,i figured the more weight i could keep off the front the better.i might just 35 axle swap from an early exploder(they are dime a dozen around here),but if i could achieve the same strength with lighter parts all the better.

Nope the D35 TTB Pig is also aluminum like the D28 pig.

Just to clearify, the '90 Bronco II 2.9, '91-'94 Explorer 4.0, and the '90-'97 Ranger 4.0 use the same front end; the Dana 35. There are SOME early '90s Rangers that have the 4 cylinder and the 3.0 that has the Dana 35/28 hybrid axle.

The center section of the true Dana 35 weighs about 45 pounds. The center section of a Dana 28 weighs about 2-3 pound lighter. The added strength of the Dana 35 beams would be well worth the weight in a desert truck.

The Hybred was used from 1993-97 on NON-4.0 trucks.

there was no "hybred" from 1990-1992

so bandying semantics it's "Mid 90's" Rangers that came with the Hybred front axle, not "early 90's"

the axles are only .10(tenth) smaller on the 28 which seems like a small sacrifice.i learned a long time ago to not try and re-invent the wheel so i am listening to the forums advice....but,who on here has actually destroyed 28 hubs and or axles?i enjoy thinking outside the box and if i can take d28 parts and exceed d35 strength i consider it advancing the community.as well as reviving parts that where once considered throw-away items.again if you have personal experience breaking your d28 i would love to hear from you.

It's not the splined part of the shafts that break,
but the U-joint "ears" on the shafts.

That is where the improvement is on the D35, it uses the same U-joints
and "ear" dimensions as a Dana 44 (F-150) axle.

no need to get snippy...although his observation is good it hardly applies to the application i'm talking about.maybe you should read up on cryo and return to this thread when you have some valuable input.

"cryo" increasing the strength PRESUMES you are working with a new part that has not been stressed in the fiels and has not acumulated corrosion pitting.

And while "Cryo" may actually increase the strength by 30% in
the shafts I doubt it's gonna do anything for the parts of the
shafts (the U-joint ears) that actually fail.

(frankly I think 30% is overly optomistic)

Unless you have NEW, NEVER INSTALLED, NEVER RUN D28 shafts you are basically pissing into the wind and that dampness you
are feeling isn't the rain my friend....

On my own truck I built it with a D35 (and the two-piston brakes)
because NEW replacement D28 parts are essentially "collector items"
and priced accordingly from the few vendors that have a carefully
guarded hoard of OEM shaft pieces.

The first job my truck must perform is to NOT BREAK.

after that everything else is secondary.

BTW an additional benefit of the D35 is that it widens the track
width which DECREASES your turning radius... (THE limiting
factor on D28 trucks is not U-joint angle but rather when
the tire starts rubbing against the frame rail)

If you REALLY want to cryo something cryo a shiny new pair
of REAR axle shafts.

BTW, what genius determined that there is more bearing seperation on a D28 than on a D35?
Yes there is less gap between the facing parts of the bearings but that's largely because the bearings themselves are WIDER.

the over all width of the bearing package is about the same with a slight edge to the D35.

Add to that the stub is larger in diameter on the D35 makes
the D35 stronger there too.

I'm going to start a new award program on TRS
I'm gonna call it the GYHOOYA award for people
that make remarks that while well thought out
missed some significant detail that makes their comment
basically meaningless.

the first person to figuire out what GYHOOYA stands for
wins a one-time immunity from having their personal stupidity
(or analytical brain fart) subjected to forum fanfare.

HahnsB2 is our first winner in the ABF catagory.

For missing that the bearings are wider AND they ride on
a larger diameter hollow shaft.

Don't take it personally I'll eventually wind up awarding it to myself
(likely more than once)
Repeat after me the motto of all GYHOOYA recepients: "Doh!"

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[BlackBII]

Allan - Get your head outta your ASS!

 

[canyoncritter]

typically if the knuckle breaks its in this area.(circuled in red).and normaly happens when the suspention is in bump. lots of pos. caster and neg. camber,the two forces fight each other and the weak spot shows.

in the 2wd trucks the snouts are known to pull out on the ranger's, on the 4wd's the knuckles are known to crack and come apart in the circled red area.

Ive never seen a snout snap,but i have seen some bent ones.in both 2wd and 4wd.

have seen a few both 2wd and 4wd also tear the wheel bearing nut off the threads.

most of these problems come from running to big of a tire(35's) and to much abuse.or a driver error.

I would really recomend running the 35 over the 28, if you going to be running in 7s/7sx and running the 500,1000, etc where your going to have alot of silt beds and lose rock hill climbs and the "goat trails" as you could leave the truck in 4wd in those sections and not have to worry about the shafts, and gears as much.

Im going to assume your going to be running some deep gears,I know the
7s truck I use to be part of ran 5.83's with 33's to keep the tranny alive(avg over all speed of a 7s truck is in the 30-35mpg range) So if your going to run 31's, your still going to want 5.13's and thats going to make for a tiny pinion on the 28.

and to let you know, this dosent happen just on the 28, but the 35 and the 44 in some of the "bigger class" trucks

 

[AllanD]

BlackBII, you are so very close... but only perfect counts.

Sadly I just realized that HahnsB2 isn't our first winner in this topic.

He's our second. (read close and figuire it out)

And I'm already considering cancelling the award, because I'm afraid of getting
carpal tunnel syndrome from typing the award notices.

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[AllanD]

I've seen a couple of broken D28 stubs,

Both had at one time or another had a baring spin on them and the corcumfrencial scoring that resulted SHOULD have seen them replaced

The one 35 I've seen was "impact trauma"

I've seen two other D35's (impact trauma) that the stub was simply missing
along with a big chunk of the steering knuckle it was torn off of.
though in both cases there was a "two nuts worth" of the stub flange
bolted to what remained of the knuckle.

I have seen way too much breakage of D28 stuff in HIGHWAY use to consider
using anything other than a D35, much less thrashing a D28 offroad.

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[BlackBII]

Oh c'mon, Get Your Head Out Of Your Ass.

And my D28 lasted about a week with 31's(The ears and joints) My D35 has held up for a year with a locker in the front

(It's all in the skinny pedal, don't you guys know?)

 

[MAKG]

(It's all in the skinny pedal, don't you guys know?)

Hmm, I thought breakage was more a function of what you're driving ON.

You can always stop faster than you can accelerate, especially if a bit of terrain is in your way.

 

[Tony Raine]

do you have a photo of where the spindle broke?

nope. the spindle was completely trashed after trying to limp it home 15 miles out of the mountains. i made it 7 before the rest of the bearings spit out all over the road and the tire went into the fender. camera was the last thing on my mind walking that last 8. after i pulled the axle out (for the 35), i chunked it off into the back of my parents barn somewhere. next time i see it, its going straight to the scrap yard

 

[BlackBII]

Hmm, I thought breakage was more a function of what you're driving ON.

Most of the time...not always the case. Cause hell, I've broken shafts in mud!

There are too many variables to say it's just one thing, so...

The skinny pedal and compromising terrain FTW!

 

[go-fast]

typically if the knuckle breaks its in this area.(circuled in red).and normaly happens when the suspention is in bump. lots of pos. caster and neg. camber,the two forces fight each other and the weak spot shows.

in the 2wd trucks the snouts are known to pull out on the ranger's, on the 4wd's the knuckles are known to crack and come apart in the circled red area.

Ive never seen a snout snap,but i have seen some bent ones.in both 2wd and 4wd.

have seen a few both 2wd and 4wd also tear the wheel bearing nut off the threads.

most of these problems come from running to big of a tire(35's) and to much abuse.or a driver error.

I would really recomend running the 35 over the 28, if you going to be running in 7s/7sx and running the 500,1000, etc where your going to have alot of silt beds and lose rock hill climbs and the "goat trails" as you could leave the truck in 4wd in those sections and not have to worry about the shafts, and gears as much.

Im going to assume your going to be running some deep gears,I know the
7s truck I use to be part of ran 5.83's with 33's to keep the tranny alive(avg over all speed of a 7s truck is in the 30-35mpg range) So if your going to run 31's, your still going to want 5.13's and thats going to make for a tiny pinion on the 28.

and to let you know, this dosent happen just on the 28, but the 35 and the 44 in some of the "bigger class" trucks

i was on the goat trail back in august,some awesome stuff.played in the pine forest too.i think if i'm going to break parts it'll be around mikes sky ranch or goat trails.btwy i averaged 44 mph......thanks for the photo's

 

[AllanD]

The Dana 28 was (sorta) Ok when the ranger was planned
with a choice of a carb 2.0 or a carb 2.3

Bad things started happening when they decided to offer the 2.8 V6 and it got a whole bunch worse with the 2.9.

Hey, the last dana 28 was installed almost 19 years ago... the years have not been kind to them.


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