93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

[bobbywalter]

definitely would have used a deutch 31 or 47 round bulkie

 

[bobbywalter]

just so you hate me extra more....


i say....throw all of that wiring shit you have away.

speeduino
quick 4


deutche bulkies

 

[Curious Hound]

just so you hate me extra more....


i say....throw all of that wiring shit you have away.

speeduino
quick 4


deutche bulkies

In hind sight, using an aftermarket pcm would have been a better choice in several ways.

Too late now and finances are drying up fast. I haven't had a full paycheck since early March. Currently getting 60%. No overtime. No doubletime on Sundays and holidays. And in September they 'll put me on "inactive status" and stop paying their portion of my insurance premiums. It will all come out of my pocket somehow.

 

[bobbywalter]

Well that's just fawgin lovely.

 

[bobbywalter]

Hose is replaced. I didn't video removing the bracket. But here are pictures of my process.

Carefully drive a chisel into theslot where the bracket wraps around the hose. I start with a small chisel, then progress to a larger one, using the wedge shape to unwrap the bracket. Work from both sides of the bracket.
View attachment 142828View attachment 142829

Once you have the metal unwrapped enough, just pull the hose out.
View attachment 142830

Both hoses side by side showing the offset that prevents using them on opposite sides.
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Finished and loosely tied to the coil spring.
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this. is a bad idea. long hose and getting crushed in spring and debris/log in mudhole destruction is much easier to get problems... the longer the line, the more likely to have whip/shock failure.


when staying to this style which is generally the easiest...
i usually make a new tab and mount at the bottom of the rail or drop down extension brackets and run e350 hoses. much stronger then any of the aftermarket long lines.


best

run hardline to radius arm point. short hose for flex.....hard line in the radius arm to short hose on caliper.

adds complexity and fail points and leak points and can be a mofo to bleed....but very stout. careful routing offers great protection. rare to fail line in mystery mud holes and hard landings...

or use the k member and run down the beams.

 

[Curious Hound]

best

run hardline to radius arm point. short hose for flex.....hard line in the radius arm to short hose on caliper.

adds complexity and fail points and leak points and can be a mofo to bleed....but very stout. careful routing offers great protection. rare to fail line in mystery mud holes and hard landings...

or use the k member and run down the beams.

That has been in the back of my mind for years. I've just never read of anyone doing it. Thanks for the encouragement. I may try it.

Complete replacement of brake lines is part of this project. The nicop line and fittings are on my living room floor awaiting install. An empty engine bay makes this easier to execute.

 

[scotts90ranger]

this. is a bad idea. long hose and getting crushed in spring and debris/log in mudhole destruction is much easier to get problems... the longer the line, the more likely to have whip/shock failure.


when staying to this style which is generally the easiest...
i usually make a new tab and mount at the bottom of the rail or drop down extension brackets and run e350 hoses. much stronger then any of the aftermarket long lines.


best

run hardline to radius arm point. short hose for flex.....hard line in the radius arm to short hose on caliper.

adds complexity and fail points and leak points and can be a mofo to bleed....but very stout. careful routing offers great protection. rare to fail line in mystery mud holes and hard landings...

or use the k member and run down the beams.

Good points, I don't like how it is on my '90 but I've yet to squish a line in the spring or snag one... on the list of things to figure out... will take some of that into consideration as well!

 

[bobbywalter]

That has been in the back of my mind for years. I've just never read of anyone doing it. Thanks for the encouragement. I may try it.

Complete replacement of brake lines is part of this project. The nicop line and fittings are on my living room floor awaiting install. An empty engine bay makes this easier to execute.

what you have may never fail.

but i have personally, and have seen others suffer failure as described.

even center lined, i failed a line out in moab once(actually young bob was driving) the shocks heated up and faded out and started using the bump stops on the bronco.

i ended up driving out because we were relying on power off stops to get back to town.

 

[bobbywalter]

I feel like I've conquered a mental hurdle that has been bothering me. The water pump was a pain in more than one way. I couldn't find anybody who sells a good set of water pump and timing cover bolts. They all need to be different lengths and some of them need threads that extend past their heads so that other things can be fastened to them with nuts. I had ordered some bolts from Dorman. But only about 3 of the bolts I ordered would work.

So, I made my own. I went to my favorite industrial hardware supplier and asked for grade 8 threaded rod. For those who don't know it, that doesn't exist. I learned that all-thread is graded differently. The closest equivalent to grade 8 is grade "B7". So, I got a 6ft stick of 5/16" B7 threaded rod and a bunch of grade 5 flange nuts. Much cheaper than McMaster-Carr and no shipping cost. It pays to find your local Indusyrial hardware supplier.

Today, put the timing civer and water pump in place with a couple temporary screws. Then used a dial caliper in "depth gauge" mode to get length measurements. Soon, I had all the studs cut. Put some goop on the gaskets, stuck it all together and torqued them appropriately. Voila!! What a reloef to have that done. I can start assembling the engine.

As I added the front end accessories, I found one stud that I need to remake about 1/2" longer to hold my idler pulley bracket and 2 that I need to trim excess threads from so they don't interfere with the serpentine belt. Now I can start to inventory the loittle detail parts that I hadn't ordered yet - t-stat & gasket, crank sensor, a couple mpre gaskets and seals...

Old water pump bolts on the left. Useless Dorman assortment on the right.
View attachment 143985

My custom hardware in place.
View attachment 143982

Good fit.
View attachment 143983

View attachment 143984

Most of the front end stuff hung.
View attachment 143986

I think the cast iron 289 manifolds were a good choice.
View attachment 143988

I like how that manifold fits up close and tight.
View attachment 143987

working my way through.....you discovered b7 on your own....


proud moments for mom and dads everywhere....

 

[bobbywalter]

Standard non symmetrical 6 bolt Clocking Ring - Great Lake Off Road LLC

Fits: Dana 300 NP208 NP231 NP241

www.greatlakeoffroad.com

 

[bobbywalter]

the heart thing sux.... this is a thing i see coming for my ugly arse...


the glo ring i posted is very cost effective.


can be stacked for spacing when incorporating a jeep 208,231 or gm 241. those are 90 out.

but...positioning the drivetrain correctly the 44 series will bolt in and be good.

 

[bobbywalter]

I sure do hope I get this thing back to operational status some day.
View attachment 143787View attachment 143788View attachment 143789View attachment 143790View attachment 143791

 

[bobbywalter]

you should have went e series for the fead and a canned ham pump....


to an astrovan setup.

cake.

 

[PlumCrazy]

you should have went e series for the fead and a canned ham pump....


to an astrovan setup.

cake.

I dont think the bracket will work with the rest of the Explorer front drive, the E/F series stuff pushes the belt centerline way out. Thats why Explorers got the slim alternator

 

[bobbywalter]

I dont think the bracket will work with the rest of the Explorer front drive, the E/F series stuff pushes the belt centerline way out. Thats why Explorers got the slim alternator
View attachment 147388

It won't.

You shit can the tight explorer set and replace it with the full van fead.

Hydroboost has its own demands and shortfalls.

Especially off road. The idea of the tighter explorer fead is great, but not necessary. I always open up the core support and maximize and forward the cooling system for the most part.

That is not necessary for normal low power applications in general . .but low range low speed off road under load..... especially with some horsepower it really pays off.

Wheeling the steering under load and braking will tax the pump to the point an Uber solid belt drive will develop issues...I actually slip the pulley sometimes and it walks...

That is an ass biter...

So anything less than Uber solid you will want to be ready