93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

[bobbywalter]

definitely would have used a deutch 31 or 47 round bulkie

 

[bobbywalter]

just so you hate me extra more....


i say....throw all of that wiring shit you have away.

speeduino
quick 4


deutche bulkies

 

[Curious Hound]

just so you hate me extra more....


i say....throw all of that wiring shit you have away.

speeduino
quick 4


deutche bulkies

In hind sight, using an aftermarket pcm would have been a better choice in several ways.

Too late now and finances are drying up fast. I haven't had a full paycheck since early March. Currently getting 60%. No overtime. No doubletime on Sundays and holidays. And in September they 'll put me on "inactive status" and stop paying their portion of my insurance premiums. It will all come out of my pocket somehow.

 

[bobbywalter]

Well that's just fawgin lovely.

 

[bobbywalter]

Hose is replaced. I didn't video removing the bracket. But here are pictures of my process.

Carefully drive a chisel into theslot where the bracket wraps around the hose. I start with a small chisel, then progress to a larger one, using the wedge shape to unwrap the bracket. Work from both sides of the bracket.
View attachment 142828View attachment 142829

Once you have the metal unwrapped enough, just pull the hose out.
View attachment 142830

Both hoses side by side showing the offset that prevents using them on opposite sides.
View attachment 142831

Finished and loosely tied to the coil spring.
View attachment 142832View attachment 142833View attachment 142834

this. is a bad idea. long hose and getting crushed in spring and debris/log in mudhole destruction is much easier to get problems... the longer the line, the more likely to have whip/shock failure.


when staying to this style which is generally the easiest...
i usually make a new tab and mount at the bottom of the rail or drop down extension brackets and run e350 hoses. much stronger then any of the aftermarket long lines.


best

run hardline to radius arm point. short hose for flex.....hard line in the radius arm to short hose on caliper.

adds complexity and fail points and leak points and can be a mofo to bleed....but very stout. careful routing offers great protection. rare to fail line in mystery mud holes and hard landings...

or use the k member and run down the beams.

 

[Curious Hound]

best

run hardline to radius arm point. short hose for flex.....hard line in the radius arm to short hose on caliper.

adds complexity and fail points and leak points and can be a mofo to bleed....but very stout. careful routing offers great protection. rare to fail line in mystery mud holes and hard landings...

or use the k member and run down the beams.

That has been in the back of my mind for years. I've just never read of anyone doing it. Thanks for the encouragement. I may try it.

Complete replacement of brake lines is part of this project. The nicop line and fittings are on my living room floor awaiting install. An empty engine bay makes this easier to execute.

 

[scotts90ranger]

this. is a bad idea. long hose and getting crushed in spring and debris/log in mudhole destruction is much easier to get problems... the longer the line, the more likely to have whip/shock failure.


when staying to this style which is generally the easiest...
i usually make a new tab and mount at the bottom of the rail or drop down extension brackets and run e350 hoses. much stronger then any of the aftermarket long lines.


best

run hardline to radius arm point. short hose for flex.....hard line in the radius arm to short hose on caliper.

adds complexity and fail points and leak points and can be a mofo to bleed....but very stout. careful routing offers great protection. rare to fail line in mystery mud holes and hard landings...

or use the k member and run down the beams.

Good points, I don't like how it is on my '90 but I've yet to squish a line in the spring or snag one... on the list of things to figure out... will take some of that into consideration as well!