‘94 4x4 Swap/Build

[DRanger024]

Got tired of the creaking QA1 Rock Ends so I finally ordered replacements. Decided on Trail Gear Creeper Joints and from the best I can tell, there isn’t much difference between them and Johnny Joints but there’s a huge difference between them and the Rock Ends.

That’s a 1.25-12 creeper joint. In front of a 4.0 OHV throttle body.

Pros: fully rebuildable, greasable, come with the jam nut, fast shipping through Summit Racing.

Cons: They’re wide.

So I put them in

Measured from the ID of the bushing bore to the face of the insert. I measured the bore of both when I took the initial measurement. I had to subtract 0.030” from that length to set the new joints.

These joints made a world of difference in how quiet and solid the truck feels going down the road. I do not regret that purchase one bit. Only complaint I have is how wide they are. Not a lot of room for movement with the body of the joint being so close to the width of the center.

Seems to be plenty of room for the suspension to cycle though. I haven’t noticed any witness marks in the brackets and I flexed it as hard as I could. There’s enough room in my bracket to where I could shove a hardened washer inside on both sides of the joint if necessary.

 

[DRanger024]

I also made a trip to the junkyard today. Mostly just to see what I missed last time. Found a perfect Powerdome hood on an ‘03 I may go back for then stumbled upon an ‘07 with a clean interior. Snagged the door arm rest pads from that and also the inside door release handles.

My old arm rests were stained and the bottom edge was separating so the updated design and black color were welcomed.

Only issue with putting newer pads on an older panel is the newer ones completely bolt on. The old pads clip in on the bottom and screw in on top.

All the holes still line up and I used 1/4” washers on the bottom screws so they’d have something to grip.

Before:

After:

I like the newer door release handles quite a bit better. They don’t feel so cheap. I even had the correct rivets left over from replacing the window regulator some years ago.

Both sides snapped off in the same place. No big deal. Just zip the rest of the stud off with a cut off wheel. The rivets are from a Dorman kit. I pull them with this…

 

[DRanger024]

Nothing new as of late. Topper is back on for winter. I’ll probably order a new set of 33’s for the truck after the holidays. The mastercrafts are dry rotting. Been busy remodeling our upstairs bathroom and of course got covid in the middle of that. Guessing I caught it at Menards because no one at work had it and I don’t really go anywhere else. So, winter mode engaged.

 

[DRanger024]

Pulled the truck in the garage for some much needed maintenance. I’ve been putting a cheap thermostat in every fall just to get good heat for the couple times I drive it every winter. Finally splurged on a Motorcraft stat. Hopefully this one can stay put for a while.
I’m not sure why the 4.0 OHV is so hard on thermostats. My old ‘99 Explorer needed one every year also.

Noticed when I did the 4.0 swap that the cooling fan had some cracks in it. It doesn’t seem to take long for these cracks to get bad once they start so I Amazon’d a new fan. Ended up with a Taiwan Dorman unit.

I drive the piss flaps off this truck and can’t believe the fan didn’t explode at 5,000 rpm.

Dorman unit. This thing moves some air!

So I’m about due for tires on this thing. The 32” Mastercrafts are about 50% but starting to dry rot. Plan is for a 33. Not sure which tire yet but this got me thinking about the front end. My spindle seals are shot and im sure the bearings will be too if I don’t fix this issue soon. So, $63 in seals and bearings later…

Probably do those tomorrow when the kids are at school. Also picked up some camber/caster eccentrics to have the front end aligned after the new tires go on. The local Ford dealer has an old timer tech that pretty much only does trucks and he will align it by request.

I finally bought the correct rear driveshaft for the truck. It should have a double cardan shaft. When I built the truck, I shortened the long half of the 2-piece rear shaft from my donor truck. It vibrates a little and I’m sure it killed my trans bearings.

New shaft

I probably won’t get around to the driveshaft until it gets warmer outside again. I’d like to swap in some Chevy springs and ditch the stock lift block but I’ll have to cut the spring perches off and reset the pinion angle. Not really that fun in winter. Probably weld the axle tubes to the center section at that time also.

Sorry if this is a little jumbled. I came through Covid just fine but sometimes my brain just can’t process thoughts. If I need to clarify anything, just say so!

 

[DRanger024]

So here’s what I found behind the spindles;

Compared to new…

This is all I use to pound out the bearings. 3/8” grade 8 bolt. Coupling nut and shorter bolt to extend it so I’m not whacking my hands with the hammer. The head of the bolt fits perfect in the groove below the bearing.

And two of my caliper bracket bolts ended up like this..

The Dorman section at any auto parts store has two packs of replacement bolts for about $8. Otherwise it’s an M12 x 1.75 flanged bolt.

 

[DRanger024]

Merry Christmas!

According to the truck, the slope of that driveway is 6°.

After a series of let downs and replacing parts, I was joking with my wife just before Christmas that we should take our Grand Caravan to her moms in western Wisconsin and trade it in. She said “Ok, what are you going to buy”? Found it! I’ve never had a vehicle this nice so I’m happier than can be.

It’s a 2016 XLT 3.5 ecoboost. Katzkin Black leather, electronic locker, trailer brake, touch screen, tonneau cover, blah blah blah. I love it.

 

[Blmpkn]

Merry Christmas!

View attachment 69849

According to the truck, the slope of that driveway is 6°.

After a series of let downs and replacing parts, I was joking with my wife just before Christmas that we should take our Grand Caravan to her moms in western Wisconsin and trade it in. She said “Ok, what are you going to buy”? Found it! I’ve never had a vehicle this nice so I’m happier than can be.

It’s a 2016 XLT 3.5 ecoboost. Katzkin Black leather, electronic locker, trailer brake, touch screen, tonneau cover, blah blah blah. I love it.

View attachment 69852

View attachment 69853

Good looking truck, I hope it serves you well.

A buddy of mine had a similar one but in that awful blue color, owned it about 2 years. He traded it in for a 2018 with a 5.0 after needing his motor/turbos replaced for the 3rd time in a year and a half. He bought the truck out of warranty, and luckily opted for the aftermarket warranty option. The warranty company he used will repair your vehicle up to the dollar amount the vehicle was bought for, that truck needed something like 16.5k in repair while he had it and he bought it for 18k lol. Took a loss trading it in, but likely less of a loss than what his forth trip for repair would of been lol.

 

[Snoranger]

Good looking truck, I hope it serves you well.

A buddy of mine had a similar one but in that awful blue color, owned it about 2 years. He traded it in for a 2018 with a 5.0 after needing his motor/turbos replaced for the 3rd time in a year and a half. He bought the truck out of warranty, and luckily opted for the aftermarket warranty option. The warranty company he used will repair your vehicle up to the dollar amount the vehicle was bought for, that truck needed something like 16.5k in repair while he had it and he bought it for 18k lol. Took a loss trading it in, but likely less of a loss than what his forth trip for repair would of been lol.

I beat my 3.5l mercilessly!!
I seriously treat the gas pedal as an on/off switch.
I’ve had a trailer hooked to the back of the truck for over 1/4 of its life (4,000+ towing miles, 17k on the truck).
I’m in NJ... typical highway speeds are 80-90, sometimes over 100.
On my way home from work at 1AM I get bored... I’ll put it in 4wd and lock the rear diff at a traffic light. I’ll “stage” the truck at 3500rpm and launch it when the light goes green.
I change the oil at 8k miles whether it needs it or not.

I don’t know what your friend was doing wrong to blow up that many engines.

 

[Blmpkn]

I beat my 3.5l mercilessly!!
I seriously treat the gas pedal as an on/off switch.
I’ve had a trailer hooked to the back of the truck for over 1/4 of its life (4,000+ towing miles, 17k on the truck).
I’m in NJ... typical highway speeds are 80-90, sometimes over 100.
On my way home from work at 1AM I get bored... I’ll put it in 4wd and lock the rear diff at a traffic light. I’ll “stage” the truck at 3500rpm and launch it when the light goes green.
I change the oil at 8k miles whether it needs it or not.

I don’t know what your friend was doing wrong to blow up that many engines.

I havnt got a clue either lol. He runs his vehicles a touch harder than the average joe... but I don't think I'd consider him as a person to really BEAT on his stuff.

I think most people at one point get a vehicle that is just "cursed" for them in particular.

One of my old subarus was cursed for me for sure, It was my first "new" car.

-own car 3 months, hit deer. Fender/door damage

-get car repaired, hit another deer 3 months later. Fender, both doors, rear quarter, poop everywhere damage.

-3 weeks after 2nd deer, mother backs onto hood of car in driveway.

-3 weeks after mother.. friend backs into other rear quarter in driveway.

-get car repaired again... just to total the thing about 3 weeks later being Ken block.

The universe decided that car and I just really weren't meant to be.

 

[Snoranger]

I havnt got a clue either lol. He runs his vehicles a touch harder than the average joe... but I don't think I'd consider him as a person to really BEAT on his stuff.

I think most people at one point get a vehicle that is just "cursed" for them in particular.

One of my old subarus was cursed for me for sure, It was my first "new" car.

-own car 3 months, hit deer. Fender/door damage

-get car repaired, hit another deer 3 months later. Fender, both doors, rear quarter, poop everywhere damage.

-3 weeks after 2nd deer, mother backs onto hood of car in driveway.

-3 weeks after mother.. friend backs into other rear quarter in driveway.

-get car repaired again... just to total the thing about 3 weeks later being Ken block.

The universe decided that car and I just really weren't meant to be.

My ‘89 Ranger STX went through two clutches (both broke in interesting ways), four FM146s, two M5ODs, and one 8.8... all in a year and a half.

So I did what any reasonable man would do.... I put a 6” lift and 35’s under it, and painted it in bed liner.

 

[BlackBII]

Looking good man! Motorcraft is the way to go, especially with stuff like a thermostat.

 

[Blmpkn]

My ‘89 Ranger STX went through two clutches (both broke in interesting ways), four FM146s, two M5ODs, and one 8.8... all in a year and a half.

So I did what any reasonable man would do.... I put a 6” lift and 35’s under it, and painted it in bed liner.

Legendary lol. Gave the universe the finger with that one for sure.

 

[DRanger024]

My dad and brother in law both have 3.5 EcoBoost trucks over 100,000 miles. Neither have had any issues outside of my dads 2011 needing one ignition coil. My BIL has no clue how to maintain a vehicle either. He killed an ‘05 Chevy Avalanche before it hit 150,000 miles. He bought it with 40,000 on it. I hope I have their luck.
Mine was a 1 owner truck and the original owner purchased and maintained it at the dealership I bought it from. They have the entire service history on file. The bed barely has any scratches in it. He used it to haul his kid to sports and back from what I understand.

 

[bobbywalter]

We have a 21 powerboost. It's the best truck I have ever owned in regards to drivability, the way it fits me ....and usable towing capacity.

The 2.7 sport that preceded it ....was awesome. But a shop visiting nightmare.

The 5 other units that were 2.7 owned by my kids were flawless.

I hope the Powerboost is in the win column. Those leather seats are awesome.



As to work trucks

There are 300k units in the fleet now. Some on oem turbos.


But for some reason I am not allowed to have one.

 

[DRanger024]

Already broke the F150 (I blame Blmpkn). Either warped the drivers side exhaust manifold or the rear bolt/stud broke. Can hear the gasket flutter like a reed valve under boost. This was the first time it didn’t idle for 5 minutes before I hopped in and took off.

So I ordered the BD diesel manifold set and all the gaskets/fittings/hardware needed to replace both manifolds. This should be a permanent solution but I may also look into turbo supports to take some of the weight off the manifolds.