Tractors

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I doubt that tractor has a hydraulic filter, if anything (since its based off a N series ford) it might have a screen attached to the drain plug, I know a N series engine drain plug is that way but I don’t recall about the hydraulic/transmission “main plug” Its possible you have multiple drain plugs for the back end, N-series ford has at least 2, possibly 3. Im only bringing “N-series ford” into this because harry ferguson based his tractor off of the N-series. Yes the engine is different (flathead vs ohv) but most of the rest of it is very similar to those fords from ‘39-‘51.
In case you dont know what Im referring to, heres dads ‘46 2N, bought new by his parents the year he was born. First picture was about 1977, 2nd picture was just a couple of years ago after I gave it a refresh and paint.View attachment 84554View attachment 84555

So according to my research, Harry Ferguson went to Henry Ford with his tractor idea that he started in Europe, which became the TE-20 in European markets and the partnership with Ford produced the N-series, which are very similar to the Ferguson tractors and used his 3 point hitch design. Apparently Ford got irritated that Ferguson was producing his own tractors and the partnership dissolved. Ferguson built the TO-20 series (60k total) which mine is and then produced the TO-30 before selling to Massy Harris which then became Massy Ferguson. Also, the expedition mounted by the British to the South Pole used Ferguson TE-20 tractors.

Mine has a few drain plugs and the oil filter is under a plate in the bottom of the oil pan. There’s some oil in the pan and some in the steering because I have minor leaks, lol. There’s also some oil in the rest of it because there’s a bit on the two dipsticks and I can see some through the opening in the top of the transmission. What I could see of the gears looked good even though the shifter feels a little sloppy. Clutch needs adjusted or something too

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

N series Fords preferred 80/90 for the hydraulics, not sure on ferggies.

I run 10-30 in all my tractor engines except my B jd.

She's a lil tired so she gets 15-40.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

So according to my research, Harry Ferguson went to Henry Ford with his tractor idea that he started in Europe, which became the TE-20 in European markets and the partnership with Ford produced the N-series, which are very similar to the Ferguson tractors and used his 3 point hitch design. Apparently Ford got irritated that Ferguson was producing his own tractors and the partnership dissolved. Ferguson built the TO-20 series (60k total) which mine is and then produced the TO-30 before selling to Massy Harris which then became Massy Ferguson. Also, the expedition mounted by the British to the South Pole used Ferguson TE-20 tractors.

Mine has a few drain plugs and the oil filter is under a plate in the bottom of the oil pan. There’s some oil in the pan and some in the steering because I have minor leaks, lol. There’s also some oil in the rest of it because there’s a bit on the two dipsticks and I can see some through the opening in the top of the transmission. What I could see of the gears looked good even though the shifter feels a little sloppy. Clutch needs adjusted or something too

Good luck getting it to stop leaking if you actually try to lol.

The older N fords (9N/2N) actually said "ferguison system" under the ford oval on the front of the hood. I believe that went away on the 8n after henry and harry parted ways.

Either way the chances of any spectacular mechanical failure on these things are pretty low. The drivetrain is more then robust enough for the output of the motor

Not to sound like a worried father but take it easy on it during chore time espicially if youre not familiar with tractors. The Fords/Masseys are probably one of the safer tractors of that era but they are known to be very nose light. It doesnt take much to get the front end airborne if you get stupid. Always cover the clutch when pulling on things that might not move and hitch as low as possible.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

N series Fords preferred 80/90 for the hydraulics, not sure on ferggies.

I run 10-30 in all my tractor engines except my B jd.

She's a lil tired so she gets 15-40.

Since they were virtually identical, I’m gonna say that sounds like a plan

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Good luck getting it to stop leaking if you actually try to lol.

The older N fords (9N/2N) actually said "ferguison system" under the ford oval on the front of the hood. I believe that went away on the 8n after henry and harry parted ways.

Either way the chances of any spectacular mechanical failure on these things are pretty low. The drivetrain is more then robust enough for the output of the motor

Not to sound like a worried father but take it easy on it during chore time espicially if youre not familiar with tractors. The Fords/Masseys are probably one of the safer tractors of that era but they are known to be very nose light. It doesnt take much to get the front end airborne if you get stupid. Always cover the clutch when pulling on things that might not move and hitch as low as possible.

Lol, I saw a thing recommending shellac for sealing the oil pan, so when I drop it we shall see, might try painting some gasket shellac on. I’m not too worried about minor leaks, at least right now. Maybe someday when I have more time to mess with things I might actually make an effort.

Correct on the Ferguson System badges. Supposedly the System part usually got ignored or fell off and a lot of people started calling them Ford Ferguson’s which isn’t exactly right.

I’m fairly familiar with lawn tractors, my big Craftsman has 5-6 gallons of RV antifreeze in AG tires and 55# wheel weights which gets it to where I can do dumb stuff with it. I try to avoid being too dumb with it though. This being a larger and more powerful tractor despite only being about the size of a larger CUT tractor of today, I can see being able to do more dumb stuff and had every intention of taking it easy until I figure out how it handles. I learned my lesson many years ago on a skid steer that the best way to run a machine hard is to first gently explore what it is and isn’t capable of. I put a skid steer into a bad bounce because I “thought” I knew enough and went over a concrete curb and into a dip in the dirt and back out at full throttle with the bucket up a bit. If you’ve never experienced the bounce in a skid steer loader, you haven’t lived. Teeth jarring, bone rattling, standing alternately on the back tires and front tires with an alternating view of ground and sky… I did some arguably crazy things with that machine after that and became a better operator at it than dad, but I never put it in a bounce again. I can’t imagine picking the front wheels up on a tractor and having them slam back down would be any less fun and there’s no cab around you for protection…

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Lol, I saw a thing recommending shellac for sealing the oil pan, so when I drop it we shall see, might try painting some gasket shellac on. I’m not too worried about minor leaks, at least right now. Maybe someday when I have more time to mess with things I might actually make an effort.

Correct on the Ferguson System badges. Supposedly the System part usually got ignored or fell off and a lot of people started calling them Ford Ferguson’s which isn’t exactly right.

I’m fairly familiar with lawn tractors, my big Craftsman has 5-6 gallons of RV antifreeze in AG tires and 55# wheel weights which gets it to where I can do dumb stuff with it. I try to avoid being too dumb with it though. This being a larger and more powerful tractor despite only being about the size of a larger CUT tractor of today, I can see being able to do more dumb stuff and had every intention of taking it easy until I figure out how it handles. I learned my lesson many years ago on a skid steer that the best way to run a machine hard is to first gently explore what it is and isn’t capable of. I put a skid steer into a bad bounce because I “thought” I knew enough and went over a concrete curb and into a dip in the dirt and back out at full throttle with the bucket up a bit. If you’ve never experienced the bounce in a skid steer loader, you haven’t lived. Teeth jarring, bone rattling, standing alternately on the back tires and front tires with an alternating view of ground and sky… I did some arguably crazy things with that machine after that and became a better operator at it than dad, but I never put it in a bounce again. I can’t imagine picking the front wheels up on a tractor and having them slam back down would be any less fun and there’s no cab around you for protection…

A lawn tractor even weighted down is nothing like a real tractor. If a 600lb garden tractor flips backwards and lands on you....yeah its gonna hurt but youll pry live. A 2500lb farm tractor not so much.

I had the nose up a time or two on the 8N my dad had. The landing sucks but youre just thankful it landed on the tires and not the steering wheel. Thats partially why i like my cub...yeah its not the most powerful thing but itll stall or spin (even with loaded tires and rim weights) before it even thinks about lifting the front, atleast on flat ground.

The fords and masseys were much safer though then say, a Farmall C/H/M or similar, atleast with a lower center of gravity and wide stance an unexpected woodchuck hole wont put you on your side....just might break your thumb from the steering wheel rotating.

And yes i have rode a bucking skid steer...i literally almost shit myself and ended up in a pond on the edge about 3 feet in water.

 

[sgtsandman]

Non-ethanol isn’t overly hard to get here, usually costs same as premium, but I know a lot of older engines were designed to run leaded gas or you destroy valves and stuff, so I was wondering how important each would be. I don’t know how much gas I’ll burn through with it, but non ethanol is not a huge problem as long as I don’t find myself dumping 20 gallons a week through it or something. Not sure what the gas line is for sure, but I was debating making a new one

Unless you know that the valves have been swapped out for hardened ones, I would look for a place to get the fuel additive that does the same job as the lead in fuel used to. You might have to get that from a dedicated tractor place but search around. Auto parts stores might still have it due to older classic cars.

As far as oil, if the tractor calls for straight 30, you might want to stick with that. I know you can run 5W-30 synthetic with modern air cooled engines instead but with that old of an engine, synthetic might cause leaks that weren’t there before just from the varnish cleaning synthetics do.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Unless you know that the valves have been swapped out for hardened ones, I would look for a place to get the fuel additive that does the same job as the lead in fuel used to. You might have to get that from a dedicated tractor place but search around. Auto parts stores might still have it due to older classic cars.

As far as oil, if the tractor calls for straight 30, you might want to stick with that. I know you can run 5W-30 synthetic with modern air cooled engines instead but with that old of an engine, synthetic might cause leaks that weren’t there before just from the varnish cleaning synthetics do.

I would definantly stay away from synthetic.

Autozone, TSC, etc carry lead subsitute.

 

[sgtsandman]

I would definantly stay away from synthetic.

Autozone, TSC, etc carry lead subsitute.

I seem to remember petroleumjunkie412 talking about certain oils with zinc or some other metal to help with cam and tappet wear. I don’t remember which ones.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Tractors generally don't run hot enough for lead additive to be required valves.

Cam is well past broken in to fuss over zinc.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Older cams did like the heavier zinc oil. But that tractor turns all of 2000RPM. Youll never wear it out.

 

[G8orFord]

Ill take that bet with the following stipulation...

Both trucks must be parked in the middle of a wide open corn field during the deep january freeze (-10 to -15 degrees with windchills double that) the night/day before competition and no extension cords will be present.

That's like saying "I'll fight you, but first you have to let me tie you up and I get to use a knife".

However, since you didn't stipulate that I cannot use additives, your on. The next time we expect anything below -20°F here in Florida I'll let you know so you can make the trip.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… I decided not to pay $30 locally for a sediment bowl and ordered one for $15 this morning. So once it gets here I’ll have to spend a few hours with the tractor to see how it runs

 

[snoranger]

That's like saying "I'll fight you, but first you have to let me tie you up and I get to use a knife".

However, since you didn't stipulate that I cannot use additives, your on. The next time we expect anything below -20°F here in Florida I'll let you know so you can make the trip.

It’s his only chance of winning.

 

[don4331]

Tractors generally don't run hot enough for lead additive to be required valves.

Cam is well past broken in to fuss over zinc.

Running the chisel plow behind our Cockshutt 1800, we had it running hot enough that the exhaust was glowing. It was just as the sun was setting that we shut down for the evening but manifold was definitely at dull shade of red. In morning, we pull the extensions off the chisel plow to make things easier on old the girl.