Tractors

[85_Ranger4x4]

The neat thing with the Petronix is if everything isn't perfect with the wiring on your 70+ year old tractor that sits outside all the time it dies. Not just mostly dead, usually it is all dead. If you don't use their plug wires you don't have a warranty.

I get 5+ years out of points on mine. And when they die I can usually scuff them up with a knife to get back to civilization if not finish what I am doing. For a tractor with the common Delco dizzy... every parts store has them. Every tractor dealer has them. So when you are planting sweet corn and rain is coming... you can easily and cheaply get going again.

IMO points and copper core plug wires all the way.

 

[RumPunch]

@lil_Blue_Ford where are you at? We had several traded in.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

The neat thing with the Petronix is if everything isn't perfect with the wiring on your 70+ year old tractor that sits outside all the time it dies. Not just mostly dead, usually it is all dead. If you don't use their plug wires you don't have a warranty.

I get 5+ years out of points on mine. And when they die I can usually scuff them up with a knife to get back to civilization if not finish what I am doing. For a tractor with the common Delco dizzy... every parts store has them. Every tractor dealer has them. So when you are planting sweet corn and rain is coming... you can easily and cheaply get going again.

IMO points and copper core plug wires all the way.

wasnt the recommended interval for point service/replacement on cars like 20,000 miles?

Think of how many hours that would equate to on a tractor.

Ive ran the piss out of my cub mowing, pulling logs, and whatever else since like 08 and never touched the points.

Id run them

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

@lil_Blue_Ford where are you at? We had several traded in.

Not anywhere near you, lol. I’m in western Pennsylvania, somewhat near Pittsburgh. Actually pretty much straight north of Pittsburgh

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The neat thing with the Petronix is if everything isn't perfect with the wiring on your 70+ year old tractor that sits outside all the time it dies. Not just mostly dead, usually it is all dead. If you don't use their plug wires you don't have a warranty.

I get 5+ years out of points on mine. And when they die I can usually scuff them up with a knife to get back to civilization if not finish what I am doing. For a tractor with the common Delco dizzy... every parts store has them. Every tractor dealer has them. So when you are planting sweet corn and rain is coming... you can easily and cheaply get going again.

IMO points and copper core plug wires all the way.

Interesting. I’m intending on replacing the wiring because it’s a mess. Someone converted it to 12 volt and did a hack job of it. Shouldn’t be very difficult, there’s not much to it and I have plenty of experience. Just currently arguing with myself how to go about doing the new wiring. They didn’t use split loom back then and I don’t know if I should use it anyway or try to keep it looking more period correct. Not trying to do a full restoration at this point, just want it useable because I have work for it to do. I bought the correct steering wheel because it was $7 more than the more generic one and keeps it looking right. The seat appears to be an old aftermarket that I’m just going to rehab. I’d like to replace the sealed beam lights ideally with LED but still use the original housings.

 

[Roert42]

Interesting. I’m intending on replacing the wiring because it’s a mess. Someone converted it to 12 volt and did a hack job of it. Shouldn’t be very difficult, there’s not much to it and I have plenty of experience. Just currently arguing with myself how to go about doing the new wiring. They didn’t use split loom back then and I don’t know if I should use it anyway or try to keep it looking more period correct. Not trying to do a full restoration at this point, just want it useable because I have work for it to do. I bought the correct steering wheel because it was $7 more than the more generic one and keeps it looking right. The seat appears to be an old aftermarket that I’m just going to rehab. I’d like to replace the sealed beam lights ideally with LED but still use the original housings.

Might be best to do the bare minimum to get it functional, then fix the other things as you go along. Otherwise you may end up with a tractor in various points of disassembly for two years.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Interesting. I’m intending on replacing the wiring because it’s a mess. Someone converted it to 12 volt and did a hack job of it. Shouldn’t be very difficult, there’s not much to it and I have plenty of experience. Just currently arguing with myself how to go about doing the new wiring. They didn’t use split loom back then and I don’t know if I should use it anyway or try to keep it looking more period correct. Not trying to do a full restoration at this point, just want it useable because I have work for it to do. I bought the correct steering wheel because it was $7 more than the more generic one and keeps it looking right. The seat appears to be an old aftermarket that I’m just going to rehab. I’d like to replace the sealed beam lights ideally with LED but still use the original housings.

Probably had cloth looming from the factory. Its available online

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Might be best to do the bare minimum to get it functional, then fix the other things as you go along. Otherwise you may end up with a tractor in various points of disassembly for two years.

Yeah, I’m in no particular hurry with this other than I’d like to have it running and repair the back blade in case it’s needed for snow fighting duty. I’m mostly looking towards sometime in say the next year. Unless I find serious issues with existing stuff, like both battery wires need replaced (it’s pretty obvious by looking at them they are less than healthy) which won’t take but a couple minutes to resolve (I have a hammer crimper for the lugs and a battery powered heat gun and all of my 12-volt gear is in a Packout set). They have a big 6-volt resister to run everything and as long as it all still works, that will be left alone until it either doesn’t work anymore or I have time to spare. Just looking for input and recommendations on stuff from other guys that appreciate old equipment, lol.

Probably had cloth looming from the factory. Its available online

Interesting. I’ll have to look for that. I have a tote full of split loom (I buy it 50-100’ at a time) but I knew while it would work on this tractor, it wouldn’t look correct for the age and I wasn’t really sure what would have been used or how important anyone thought it would be to stick to more correct for the age. I’m going to use modern wire for whatever gets replaced and modern terminals so I guess there’s that. Battery wire will be replaced with welding cable and the rest of the wiring will be done in THHN either 12 or 14 gauge because that’s what I use. For 18 gauge I have spools of “automotive” wire.

 

[Roert42]

I prefer MAC or MTW wire for most stuff. seems to flex a lot better and doesn't have that flakey plastic sheath on the outside of the insultation.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Probably had cloth looming from the factory. Its available online

+1

I use cloth electrical tape on mine for looks. If it is somewhere I am worried about abrasion or chaffing I will get the plastic loom and put tape over it so it will still look somewhat right.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I prefer MAC or MTW wire for most stuff. seems to flex a lot better and doesn't have that flakey plastic sheath on the outside of the insultation.

I like the welding cable for battery cables because it carries current better and is high flex. Prefer THHN for the 12 and 14 gauge because it is somewhat rigid that I can bend wires or bundles to conform out of the way when it’s not easy to secure them overly well. Usually that’s not a big issue with battery cables but some of the other runs trying to keep the wires where they belong is.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I like the welding cable for battery cables because it carries current better and is high flex. Prefer THHN for the 12 and 14 gauge because it is somewhat rigid that I can bend wires or bundles to conform out of the way when it’s not easy to secure them overly well. Usually that’s not a big issue with battery cables but some of the other runs trying to keep the wires where they belong is.

Welding cable is great for battery cables.

Yours is 12 but they will make or break a 6v system.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Welding cable is great for battery cables.

Yours is 12 but they will make or break a 6v system.

The plow on my F-150 was pulling harder than I wanted on the electrical so I ran new grounds and power with 4 gauge welding cable and ran a loop to the output of a new 130 amp alternator (original was the like 85 amp or whatever, truck is power nothing), made a huge difference. I see zero reason to do anything different at this point and I could definitely see it making a big impact on a 6-volt. The guy I got it from claimed it worked better as a 6 volt and I should put it back. I see no reason to do that, pretty sure the problem is with the wiring.

 

[Roert42]

My Honda Tractor was giving me fits this weekend. It seems to not be charging the battery. It will run only a few minutes and the battery very slowly drains and then the engine stalls.

There is a coil for the spark plug that feeds off the battery, and two coils on the engine that goes through a rectifier/ regulator to feed the battery.

I found a bad connection from at the regulator/rectifier going to the battery, fixed that, but didn't seem to help much.

I charged the battery up yesterday, and letting it sit to see if it drains down on it's own. It's a new battery, but maybe it was damaged or bad.

Otherwise I'm looking at an issue with the charging coil. Can't seems to find any online, and you need to pull the motor to get at them anyway........



Not coinvent, since I have a 20yrd dumpster I am trying to load with old bricks and concrete. Spent most of Saturday and Sunday screwing with it instead of doing actual work.

 

[Curious Hound]

Have you put a meter on it to see the voltage while running?