SkyJacker Xtreem drop pitman arm?

[Gacknar]

I have read a lot here about using the SkyJacker Xtreem drop pitman arm and keeping the tie rods in line with the traction beams. This seems to be standard practice on RBV's. As I understand, the RBV version of this arm is 4"

That said, I come from the FullSize world. The SkyJacker Xtreem drop pitman arm for Full size trucks is 6", and the added leverage does this.

The added leverage just tears the frames apart.

My own Full Size Bronco did the same with just a standard drop pitman (4" on a full size rig) Actually, it tore with just the factory pitman, but the 4" tore the repair apart.

Original thread about it.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91282

And this thread shows my ultimate solution to it.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90576

Unfortunately, I can never use the 6" drop pitman, So I can never truly get my steering in line with my Traction Beams. Even after a Knuckle under flip, it's still not in line.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143448

So on it, I can only do an SAS to truly solve the bumpsteer and brake dive steer problem.

My question is, Do RBV's have this frame problem with the Xtreem drop pitman? I assume not since I have not found a thread about it.

 

[88_Eddie]

never heard of that happening on an RBV with an extreme drop arm

 

[4.0B2]

never heard of it...

for the same money (or close around it) you could use a superrunner steering kit, k-link system.

 

[brinker88]

FA600 is 200 or so vs the 450 for the K-link

OR you could go and build yourself a Stonecrusher steering setup (which is very simple)

Either way, my 86 F150 NEVER did that and I wheeled the piss out of it on 40's and a 4" drop pitman arm.

That frame is not reinforced properly either. That coil bucket needs to come off and the frame needs to be plated w/ 1/4" steel.

 

[legoms013]

I have heard of rumors that the FA600 would eventually cause fatigiing and failur,e but have never seen pics.

Plus, I had a FA600 on my truck and 33's for over a year and it was all good. Never had a problem.

Now I am back down to a FA400 and a 1-ton K-link setup.

You should check it out, and see if that is a viable option for you, for me it has worked out great, minimal bumpsteer, heavy duty components, and I commute everyday 60mi. It has been the best mod I have ever done....it is the only mod that has held off the SAS for me

 

[Gacknar]

That frame is not reinforced properly either. That coil bucket needs to come off and the frame needs to be plated w/ 1/4" steel.

Sorry if I confused you, that torn apart frame is not mine, it's on this F-150.

And yea, it's not fixed right, never was fixed right, and never will be fixed right because they wont listen to me.

If you scan the last two pages in this thread, you can see the repair I did on mine.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90576

Or just brows the pictures here
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/4103/55989

Drilled, ground and welded the crack. Replaced the rivet with a 9/16 bolt per Fords TSB, and built a steering box brace like Jeeps use.

Either way, my 86 F150 NEVER did that and I wheeled the piss out of it on 40's and a 4" drop pitman arm.

As time goes on, we are seeing more trucks with this same problem, and it's all due to the bad rivet and leverage on the frame. My Bronco has 480,000 miles on it, most of that on 35"s.

I was just wondering if RBV's had a similar problem.

And I was wrong, FA600 is the same part number for full size trucks, so I guess I just have a 2" Pittman on the Bronco and Ranger.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah the lift industry hasn't been able to fully get it correct it seems (and is why so many people have the issues they have with lifted TTB suspensions).

I also haven't heard of much in the way of frame problems with FA600 drop arms on RBVs over the years, however I have seen a busted sector shaft or two on the boxes themselves on rigs used hard.

Like was said, the K-link (using either a stock or a 'standard' drop arm) is IMO really the best way to go on these suspensions. Unfortunately with the lack of any good bolt-on options available you'll likely have to fab something up.
Starting with a Superlift Superrunner steering kit can save a bit of fab time, however the bushing pivot setup they use on their idler arm leaves a little to be desired after it's been modified to bring the centerlink down to where it belongs. A few here have swapped out the upper urethane bushings for bearings or Delrin bushings, which are much harder, others have made the arm's upper pivot tube longer, effectively dispersing the leverage that way.

There's a pretty good thread in the Steering section here by Crashtest84 (<I think that's his number) who shared pics of the setup he built from scratch (loosely based on the K-link setup). Maybe you can get some ideas there.

 

[derekj]

Been running the extreme drop arm on my truck for 3 years and no problems