Ranger and mustand hoods compatible?

[cbxer55]

Yes! It's disgusting! People drink out of there!

Mainly (((BAD))) dogs.

 

[snoranger]

I mention it everytime I post.








Lightning!

FIFY...

It’s past the point of harping on you and just turned into a TRS joke.

 

[adsm08]

View attachment 50020

Report to Dirtman's basement.

 

[Roert42]

Report to Dirtman's basement.

I’m excited. should I bring my basement spider crickets so we can compare?

 

[cbxer55]

I'll bring the Scotch and cigars.

 

[Waldoduhh]

Link?

https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/2000-ford-ranger-2-5l-engine-problems.189635/#post-1791343 link to the nine problem. Not sure if I mentioned it in the post because noone else has commented but there is a significant difference in how the truck runs no hood versus hood. Also, the exhaust manifold has a bunch of cracks and holes gonna seal this weekend, and last night in the 2 moments it briefly ran like shit, the fuel cap light started flashing while doing so. The light is otherwise always on, along with the battery light which I have no charging or starting issues, the abs light which makes sense the proportioning valve in the engine bay isn't hooked up electrically because it doesn't match the harness I put in at all (harness is 2000, proportioner is 2003), along with the two abs front sensors (part of 03 setup) which long story short po put a 2.5l in a 03 with a 2000 ecu and did terrible wire work making the 03 harness work. The only thing 97 is the cab which is why its registered as a 97. If you need more info on that I can link that thread. Airbag lights on, which seats aren't plugged in so assume thats why, and brake lights on, not sure why ill check wires. That hood doesn't look bad at all, ill see what I can do with that

 

[Dirtman]

Fix what you know is broken before trying to figure out what you think is broken...

Fuel cap light means an evap system leak which is also a large vacuum leak when the system purges. So there's a pretty good reason for "random" times the engine would start running like crap.

Cracked exhaust manifold means the o2 sensor cannot read properly so you won't have proper fuel mixture. Again causing the engine to run like crap.

And your "cold" air intake is sucking hot air from the engine bay which would explain to some degree why it works better with no hood.

Fix those 3 things before moving on to anything else. You obviously also have electrical problems but no point working on that until you fix the stuff you KNOW is wrong.

 

[cbxer55]

The cai, don't put the stock system back on, you'll regret it. Mine runs like shit with the stock intake. Just buy some black hose from one of the Big Box Stores, and route it from the lower grill opening under the radiator and back up so that it blows the air in the location of the filter. Mine never gets hot at all. Only warm during the summer months, which even the stock one will do. But, during the winter, my air filter is cold to the touch, even after sitting around in traffic.

And this weekend, planning on doing the two small scoops directly over top the filter.

btw: there are guys with Lightnings that use a gauge set up that allows them to read OBD II parameters, such as the air temperature sensor. Digital readout. They say that no matter what intake is on their truck, stock or CAI, they all get hot while idling. And they all cool down as soon as the vehicle starts moving. There's lots of leaks around and under the hood that allow air into that corner, which is not directly behind the fan. And they all say that on a dyno, the CAI makes more power than the stock EPA silencer intake.

 

[Dirtman]

Your lightning has a 2.5 now?

 

[Waldoduhh]

Yeah I've never had issues with my intake temp, I monitor it directly from the obd system using the intake temp sensor. I left the stock bottom portion of intake in, its below the cai filter, so that helps while In motion, but im gonna run a tube like you are from under the fender and help push more air to the cai with another hole in the bottom portion of the airbox. Ive always run cai in my vehicles, it has never once failed in increasing performance and response. I pulled exhaust manifold today , cylinder 4 tube was practically cracked all the way around, have it sealing now. Egr valve tube was leaking from where it connects to manifold too, so I sealed that as well, aint gonna come apart again though but this is ok gonna drop tank tomorrow and reseat seal that way. The po cut a hole above the tank in bed and used flimsy metal to make a door hinge with the cutout lol, but its still hard to get good access to the lid to tighten it down so gonna drop it and do it that way.

 

[Dirtman]

How are you "sealing" a cracked exhaust manifold?

 

[Waldoduhh]

How are you "sealing" a cracked exhaust manifold?

Im not home but i Think its called quick max or something like that, essentially a liquid weld i packed into the crack and than layered a 1/4 in thick Over it and shaped it to conform to the manifold. Says it can be sanded drilled tapped Yada Yada after curing, designed for cracks on manifolds and other items. The crack was literally like a hairline fracture, I spread the weld a 1/2 inch out each side of crack and the full circumference of the section where the crack is incase it tries to recrack or spread.

 

[adsm08]

Unless you drilled the ends of the crack it will spread, and not stop at 1/2 and inch.

Also, that stuff is going to cook off and blow out.

 

[Waldoduhh]

Yeah 1/8 drill hole at each end and v Grove down the crack like it said. And well, cheaper than trying to come up with money for a manifold on the spot. This is my DD so I have to make do with what I can afford while making sure it still moves. 6.99 was what I had compared to the price of another manifold. Im not gonna just ride it forever, just a bandaid until I can afford one.

 

[Dirtman]