Prerunner RC Build

[markpetersonii]

24" !? Wow!!

 

[NickRummy]

Sorry for post whoring but as I get things drawn I'm looking to you guys for approval

I think I have the link bars finished. Seems like they should work out well. The only thing that might change would be the bracket on the beam getting flipped if I have clearance issues with the chassis and the top of the links but it's looking ok so far.

 

[that_one_guy]

subscribed

 

[97fordrunner]

Fella you are doin some awsome work, you get that thing built and looking good I'd be sending pics to a few companies I'd be willing to bet that they might be interested in such a truck being they seem to be progressing to more realistic stuff in recent years. just my input. Keep up the good work

 

[NickRummy]

Fella you are doin some awsome work, you get that thing built and looking good I'd be sending pics to a few companies I'd be willing to bet that they might be interested in such a truck being they seem to be progressing to more realistic stuff in recent years. just my input. Keep up the good work

thanks for the compliments! It'll be a while before it's finished. I have an 8 week old son at home so my shop time is pretty limited.

Does anyone know if the cab walls change a lot between 98 and 05? They seem to be about the same. I found one of a 98 and an 02. Figured I'd start getting to work on filling that in while waiting on some things.

 

[CopyKat]

I'd get some castor built into those beams. On most cars there is a kick up where the front sispension is mounted to the chassis. This gives the KPI.

Looking good so far.

 

[NickRummy]

I'd get some castor built into those beams. On most cars there is a kick up where the front sispension is mounted to the chassis. This gives the KPI.

Looking good so far.

What's KPI?

As for caster, the suspension links I have drawn should let me dial that in. If I just turn the lower rod end out to lengthen it then that will push the bottom of the beams forward adding caster. Correct?

EDIT: I had planned on having that option but didn't draw it in because that would have required me to realign all the suspension parts which isnt' fun in the program I'm using.

 

[mjonesjr]

You may want to make the radius arms a bit longer so you can get the travel you want in your previous drawings.

 

[NickRummy]

You may want to make the radius arms a bit longer so you can get the travel you want in your previous drawings.

The radius arms aren't interfering with anything. It's the shock's stroke that is limiting travel right now. The shock will compress completely before the radius arms hit the chassis. I also have more up travel than down so I'm going to even that out a bit.

 

[mjonesjr]

The radius arms aren't interfering with anything. It's the shock's stroke that is limiting travel right now. The shock will compress completely before the radius arms hit the chassis.

Radius arms don't limit up travel as much as they limit down travel.

 

[NickRummy]

Ahhhhh ok. Do you mean that the more the beam drops on down travel the more it will want to move back towards the chassis because its following the radius arms path?

 

[mjonesjr]

Correct, the beam will move in an arch to follow the radius arm travel. They will go down and back.

 

[CopyKat]

KPI King Pin Inclination.

Looks as though there may be some built into the C's and the knuckle your using. Not 100% sure. Doesn't look like much. You'll want atleast 10° of castor. or your tires are going to get all wobbly on you. I'd look at making the rad arms part of the Beams. Get rid of the joints. Your not going to need it. or a simple screw through the beam would suffice.

Also the shocks you might want o look at mounting infront of the beam. It will lessen the travel but should make handleing better.

Your giving me ideas to start on one too. I've got 2 older cars that are down because I can't get parts any more but custom building one would make things interesting.

 

[mjonesjr]

Also the shocks you might want o look at mounting infront of the beam. It will lessen the travel but should make handleing better.

Why not mount them directly on top in the middle of the beam; seems it would be best of both worlds.

 

[NickRummy]

This is exactly why I posted this here. This is the exact info and response I was looking for. Thanks guys

Correct, the beam will move in an arch to follow the radius arm travel. They will go down and back.

Do the manufacturers of these long arm kits have any specs on what that deflection might be or what is tolerable? If the radius arm is horizontal to the ground at ride height (assuming you have equal up travel and drop out) then you should minimize how much the beam will move backwards correct? Then of course the longer you can make the arm the larger that radius will be and the less movement you'll have.

KPI King Pin Inclination.

Looks as though there may be some built into the C's and the knuckle your using. Not 100% sure. Doesn't look like much. You'll want atleast 10° of castor. or your tires are going to get all wobbly on you. I'd look at making the rad arms part of the Beams. Get rid of the joints. Your not going to need it. or a simple screw through the beam would suffice.

The knuckles have about 7 degrees caster built into them. I could add or subtract some by adjusting the rod ends on the radius arms. I could just run studs out of the front of the radius arms and run those studs through the beams and bolt through. That wouldn't be an issue but I thought having the adjustments might be a good thing? Maybe I'll keep the rod ends for adjustment right now and when the suspension is tuned I'll know what I can make non-adjustable.

KPIAlso the shocks you might want o look at mounting infront of the beam. It will lessen the travel but should make handleing better.

Why not mount them directly on top in the middle of the beam; seems it would be best of both worlds.

They are currently mounted on top in the middle of the beam. Those (3) holes towards the top of the beam are all for the lower shock mount. I have it setup so that it's basically in the same plane as the beam's mounting point to the chassis. I'll most likely move the top shock mount back towards the middle of the chassis slightly so they aren't completely vertical.