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Prerunner RC Build


NickRummy

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I know this isn't technically the spot for this thread but you guys know more about this stuff than me and I figured you guys could give pointers throughout the build.

I'm starting on a custom Prerunner RC truck. Got a Ranger body and started tearing it down. Here's where I'm at. I'm wanting to try and replicate a real truck as much as I can so any constructive criticism from you guys is much appreciated!

Here's the body I got. They're pretty hard to find now. It's labeled 1/6th scale but measures out to be 1/7.5 scale. I think KB Toys sold them back in the day.



Started tearing down the body. Getting rid of all the "toyish" stuff.





Next will be cutting out that fake engine bay and cutting the bed off.

Here's where you guys come in :D I started laying out the front suspension. I've been studying pics from the site on what people are running. This seems to be about as close as I could get to the real thing. It was kind of rough finding a top view of the arm layout to see how they got them to cross correctly. I also still need to add the bars that will connect to the beams and run to the chassis. I'm still looking into those. It seems like they would pull the beams back towards the cab at full stuff or full drop out?





 


swickwake

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this is freaking cool. cant with to see this thing tearing it up.
 

MountainMike

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I have got to find one of those bodies!!!
 

NickRummy

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I found someone selling this one used on an RC forum. You don't see them too often so I snagged it. I've just recently become really interested in these larger RC builds. I have a Chevy Monster truck that has just been way to much fun.

So how does the front suspension look? What would you guys change on it? The frame rails will be steel as will the beams. This things going to be a tank but oh well.
 

Doom's Day Custom

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I was try to get into the bigger buggies that use high performance weedwaker but holy crap they aren't cheep
 

NickRummy

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haha! yeh I've owned one of those. It's an HPI 5B. They're a ton of fun but you have to have a REALLY big place to run them and they are LOUD. I got rid of all my gas/nitro vehicles and run electric only now. With the technology out now a days electric is the way to go.

There's a pic of the one I had here

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=164079&id=188707323573&ref=mf
 

Doom's Day Custom

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haha! yeh I've owned one of those. It's an HPI 5B. They're a ton of fun but you have to have a REALLY big place to run them and they are LOUD. I got rid of all my gas/nitro vehicles and run electric only now. With the technology out now a days electric is the way to go.

There's a pic of the one I had here

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=164079&id=188707323573&ref=mf

i agree with you because my t-maxx was a pain in the ass to keep in tune and the pull start sucks to play with and how was hpi 5b to keep in tune and run and is it worth the money for it ????
 

NickRummy

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i agree with you because my t-maxx was a pain in the ass to keep in tune and the pull start sucks to play with and how was hpi 5b to keep in tune and run and is it worth the money for it ????
Well if I had one praise it would be that it held a tune great. Just like a weed eater, set it up and tune it and then forget about it.

Here's a revised drawing I did for the front end. If I can find a shock with this travel then I could get this much. I added the tire size I'm trying to use to show also.

 

Chris.S.

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Nice looking build. Just got into RC with a Slash last week and I'm hooked. Can't wait to see this one progress. Too bad nobody currently makes a 1/10 Ranger body, that would be ultra cool.
 

RaceRanger97

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set-up looks good. are you dead set on the frame width? If the beam pivots were farther apart and the beams were longer you would have allot less camber and track width change.
 

offroadranger

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set-up looks good. are you dead set on the frame width? If the beam pivots were farther apart and the beams were longer you would have allot less camber and track width change.
he could also just move the beam pivots to the outside of the frame rails. that would help alot as well.
 

doyouquaxu

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I was try to get into the bigger buggies that use high performance weedwaker but holy crap they aren't cheep
its not a weed wacker! its the same type of engine but they didnt just chop it off of the end of a gardening tool and throw it in the buggy! it's like saying your ranger is the same thing as a honda civic.
 

NickRummy

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set-up looks good. are you dead set on the frame width? If the beam pivots were farther apart and the beams were longer you would have allot less camber and track width change.
he could also just move the beam pivots to the outside of the frame rails. that would help alot as well.
I'm keeping the frame rails where they are. They're scaled down to factory sizes. I had the beam pivots where I thought was factory but it wasn't working out well so I moved them under the frame rails where you seen them now. I thought about going out past the frame but I won't have the room to clear the shock. Also, the camber looked pretty close to what RaceRanger was getting out of his so I thought it was pretty realistic. I doubt I'll get the max travel shown in the drawings anyway.

Now I'm trying to find a decent picture of the back of an '05 cab. I got the body and bed cut apart but there's a huge opening in the cab now I want to fill.
 

NickRummy

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Ok did some more CAD work to try and figure out some shocks and shock mounting points. These are the longest shocks I can use. I want to try and keep the shocks on the outside of the frame like the real deal. I probably could inboard them and get tons of travel but that's not too realistic.

Side shot with the chassis link added. Went through the motion and this looks like it will work out really well. It won't contact the frame either.



Here's the front shot showing up travel and drop out. Quite a bit less than what it's capable of but still decent I guess. Scaled out it equals about 9.25" drop out (from bottom of tire to ground) and about 14.75" up travel (from bottom of tire to ground) So that's an overall travel of around 24" to scale. Does that sound about correct? I can obviously adjust if I want more drop out or more up travel based on shock mounting location.

 

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