Need help with Mazda B3000 1994

[CorbinsRanger]

No, I don't have a reader.
I'm wondering if I should buy one for this, or if I should try the video method.

If the flashing light works and gives you a code how would it corospond to a letter which is the first part of OBD code. For example P denotes powertrain, C for chassis, B for body and U for network stuff. Then come the number flashes you are taloking about. Maybe you only need the numbers. Give it a try and let us know what code you come up with.

 

[Josh B]

That video should work, although I've never heard of that way before

 

[Josh B]

I looked at one of the readers on Amazon and their negative feedback was fairly rough, and that one cost $30-35. And it may be no better than the Utube method, as theirs was falling aprt on the first use

 

[Maxsevich11]

If the flashing light works and gives you a code how would it corospond to a letter which is the first part of OBD code. For example P denotes powertrain, C for chassis, B for body and U for network stuff. Then come the number flashes you are taloking about. Maybe you only need the numbers. Give it a try and let us know what code you come up with.

I don't think so.
I have a manual Trans, no gauges on the body or chassis. Not even ABS, just RABS)

 

[Josh B]

I believe yours will work the way they show it on that Utube

I considered doing mine that way a bit but that engine light went out so I figured "problem solved"

My truck wasn't having any problems though that I could tell, the mileage always stayed good, and oil pressure and temperature always stayed normal

If yours works well without MAF hey, try getting by without it for a while, check your mileage and watch the gauges

 

[Maxsevich11]

I believe yours will work the way they show it on that Utube

I considered doing mine that way a bit but that engine light went out so I figured "problem solved"

My truck wasn't having any problems though that I could tell, the mileage always stayed good, and oil pressure and temperature always stayed normal

If yours works well without MAF hey, try getting by without it for a while, check your mileage and watch the gauges

By the way, do you know if there should be a gasket on the engine oil pump?
Or is it installed without it?

 

[Josh B]

By the way, do you know if there should be a gasket on the engine oil pump?
Or is it installed without it?

No Sir, I really don't know, but somebody here will, would be my guess that it does, but that's still a guess

 

[Josh B]

This is for 93-94 Ranger 3.0 Max

I don't see anything about an oil pump gasket

 

[Maxsevich11]

This is for 93-94 Ranger 3.0 Max
View attachment 87959View attachment 87960

I don't see anything about an oil pump gasket

I've already racked my brains.
Previously, when starting the engine, the oil pressure gauge was instantly in the operating position (there is a dot drawn there).
Then at some point I began to notice that when the engine is cold the pointer does not reach this point a few mm, and I began to hear the "ticking" of a single lifter. As the engine warmed up, the arrow would get right and the ticking sound would disappear.
I solved it by replacing all 12 lifters and a new oil pump.
But it didn't get better, it got worse.
At startup I could hear a significant ticking sound from many lifters...
I don't understand where the oil pressure can go ...

 

[Maxsevich11]

...

 

[Maxsevich11]

In general, I used the method as in the video, and got these error codes

 

[CorbinsRanger]

Your first code I don;t think is related to your problem. It is just a canister that stores fumes from your fuel tank. There is a solenoid that will open the line and send the fumes on their way to be burnt. This system is not working and could have several causes. The 565 code usually means when you turn your key on the ecm is not seeing a value or correct value from that circuit. Check all your related hoses and wiring connections.
Now for the one that matters code 159 MAF sensor out of self test range.
You did not say if this was a KOEO or EOER code but here is what both mean below.

Key On, Engine Off Self-Test DTC 159 indicates that the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is out of Self-Test range and that the MAF Signal was greater than .70 volts during the Key On, Engine Off Self-Test.

Engine Running Self-Test DTC 159 indicates that the MAF Signal was not between .20 and 1.50 volts during the Key On Engine Running Self-Test.
If these values are correct it should be easy for you to test the voltages coming out of your ECM to the MAF. but you will require a multi-meter Here is a link to the first set of values I found. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1094152-obd-i-code-159-a.html

From your video it appears you have a four wire connector to your MAF. If that is the case here is a video on how to test a ford 4 pin MAF to see if it is good.

For you last code 116, I found this video showing the locations of 2 sensors.

Good luck and hope this helps.....but if it doesn't you can still run the truck with it unplugged. Might lose a couple MPG.

 

[Maxsevich11]

Your first code I don;t think is related to your problem. It is just a canister that stores fumes from your fuel tank. There is a solenoid that will open the line and send the fumes on their way to be burnt. This system is not working and could have several causes. The 565 code usually means when you turn your key on the ecm is not seeing a value or correct value from that circuit. Check all your related hoses and wiring connections.
Now for the one that matters code 159 MAF sensor out of self test range.
You did not say if this was a KOEO or EOER code but here is what both mean below.

Key On, Engine Off Self-Test DTC 159 indicates that the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is out of Self-Test range and that the MAF Signal was greater than .70 volts during the Key On, Engine Off Self-Test.

Engine Running Self-Test DTC 159 indicates that the MAF Signal was not between .20 and 1.50 volts during the Key On Engine Running Self-Test.
If these values are correct it should be easy for you to test the voltages coming out of your ECM to the MAF. but you will require a multi-meter Here is a link to the first set of values I found. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1094152-obd-i-code-159-a.html

From your video it appears you have a four wire connector to your MAF. If that is the case here is a video on how to test a ford 4 pin MAF to see if it is good.

For you last code 116, I found this video showing the locations of 2 sensors.

Good luck and hope this helps.....but if it doesn't you can still run the truck with it unplugged. Might lose a couple MPG.

Thank you. Let's check with a multimeter. When I did the error code reading, the MAF was disconnected from the wire. Does that make a difference?
If I try to start the engine and the MAF is connected, it shuts off after 3 seconds, and does not even respond to the throttle.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

It might. Can you plug it in with key on and do it again?

 

[Maxsevich11]

It might. Can you plug it in with key on and do it again?

Yes ,i can )