Need help with Mazda B3000 1994

[Maxsevich11]

Good day)
Could you please help.
There is a problem with the operation of the engine.
1 -The engine does not idle and stalls (rpm 300-400)
2 - When I press the throttle rpm does not increase
3 -The car jerks and spits
4 - check engine lights up, but there is nothing to read the code
5- this problem sometimes disappears by itself, today all bad, tomorrow all good (as if nothing had happened)
6- when I disconnect the MAF connector, everything works well, and the power is full. But if you plug it back in, everything goes bad.
Fuel pump is new, MAF is new (1 year old). Removed the ECM, looked at it and put it back. nothing has changed )
All engine sensors new ( ignition control module, distributor cap, spark harness, alternator, air temp sensor, coolant sensor and sender, throttle pos. sensor and idle , fuel pump relay and ECC relay all new)
Please help with advice, maybe someone has faced this problem?

Sorry for my bad Eng, i am Ukrainian)
Also video included

 

[superj]

welcome! someone should be here that can help out as the day continues

 

[Maxsevich11]

I explain the video.
1 video - the engine does not give more than 1000 rpm, even if the throttle is full.
2 - everything works fine if the maf is disabled.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

I explain the video.
1 video - the engine does not give more than 1000 rpm, even if the throttle is full.
2 - everything works fine if the maf is disabled.

Was the truck running ok before you started adding parts?

 

[Maxsevich11]

Was the truck running ok before you started adding parts?

parts were not bought at once, I bought several sensors every few months. a year ago, when I bought a new MAF, the truck seemed to come to life. then I bought new oxygen sensors, and a throttle sensor. there were no problems.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

You might be running of the old ecu settings. from the clogged up sensors and MAF. Try this for giggles...Disconnect the MAF then both pos and neg wires to the battery. Now hold them together for about a minute or so to drain the charge from the ecu. Hook the battery wires back up and drive around the block a few times. Now plug the MAF in and see what happens. The MAF sensor is responsible for telling the PCM how much air is coming in, but it does have alternate maps for determining fuel input using manifold pressure and throttle opening and not the MAF (that’s why it runs at all with it unplugged)… however those fuel maps are more conservative than the ones that follow MAF frequency so you’ll end up with a richer (safer) air/fuel mixture, and perhaps less timing advance (which is also safer)… long story short the car will run okay but not at its best

 

[Maxsevich11]

You might be running of the old ecu settings. from the clogged up sensors and MAF. Try this for giggles...Disconnect the MAF then both pos and neg wires to the battery. Now hold them together for about a minute or so to drain the charge from the ecu. Hook the battery wires back up and drive around the block a few times. Now plug the MAF in and see what happens. The MAF sensor is responsible for telling the PCM how much air is coming in, but it does have alternate maps for determining fuel input using manifold pressure and throttle opening and not the MAF (that’s why it runs at all with it unplugged)… however those fuel maps are more conservative than the ones that follow MAF frequency so you’ll end up with a richer (safer) air/fuel mixture, and perhaps less timing advance (which is also safer)… long story short the car will run okay but not at its best

1 - I ask you to literally explain this phrase -''and drive around the block a few times." difficulties with translation ))
2 - I'm worried that after replacing these sensors, I walked about 1000 km in normal mode, and only recently this problem appeared. and she appears and then she disappears.
think ECU settings can affect now?
3 - can there be problems with the ECM?
thanks.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

1 - I ask you to literally explain this phrase -''and drive around the block a few times." difficulties with translation ))
2 - I'm worried that after replacing these sensors, I walked about 1000 km in normal mode, and only recently this problem appeared. and she appears and then she disappears.
think ECU settings can affect now?
3 - can there be problems with the ECM?
thanks.

Drive around block means just get it up to operating temperature. Drain the power from the ecu so it is back to factory settings. It may still be making adjustments from your faulty sensors and MAF. If this does not change anything I would have a good look at your MAF....can you compare it to your old one?

 

[Maxsevich11]

Drive around block means just get it up to operating temperature. Drain the power from the ecu so it is back to factory settings. It may still be making adjustments from your faulty sensors and MAF. If this does not change anything I would have a good look at your MAF....can you compare it to your old one?

Thanks, I'll give it a try.
In theory, I can compare the two sensors, after some time.

 

[pjtoledo]

around the block

a block is the group of homes, usually in a town, that are on the same street.
looking at a map the homes are divided into blocks by the streets.
to drive around the block make 4 turns and arrive back at your starting point.

 

[Maxsevich11]

Drive around block means just get it up to operating temperature. Drain the power from the ecu so it is back to factory settings. It may still be making adjustments from your faulty sensors and MAF. If this does not change anything I would have a good look at your MAF....can you compare it to your old one?

One more question.
What obd reader do I need to read the error code ? Can i use this method?)

 

[Josh B]

You would need an OBD1 reader. The codes can be read by using a paper clip or small wire some way, and counting the light flashes, but I cannot explain that method
Good luck there Max

 

[CorbinsRanger]

One more question.
What obd reader do I need to read the error code ? Can i use this method?)

Do you not have an OBD port? It's location will vary by the year of truck but will loook like this and about in this location. The video you show is a much older ranger that yours so I don't know if that will work. Do you have a cheap obd reader or can you borrow one?

 

[Maxsevich11]

You would need an OBD1 reader. The codes can be read by using a paper clip or small wire some way, and counting the light flashes, but I cannot explain that method
Good luck there Max

I am a tank man by profession, but cars are also close to me )

Thank you)[

 

[Maxsevich11]

Do you not have an OBD port? It's location will vary by the year of truck but will loook like this and about in this location. The video you show is a much older ranger that yours so I don't know if that will work. Do you have a cheap obd reader or can you borrow one?

View attachment 87945

No, I don't have a reader.
I'm wondering if I should buy one for this, or if I should try the video method.